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Old 12-05-2012 | 09:27 PM
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Default carbon composite

hey guys i was wondering if i should buy carbon composite parts or stay with the plastic parts???? the reason i ask is because of the cold weather, carbon parts (years ago) didnt like cold weather. has this changed????
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Old 12-05-2012 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by associatevalley
Dynamite motor spray is great.

Eventually you will want the performance of a ball diff if you continue racing. Very few people stick with a gear diff. Not saying Its bad or wrong but ball diffs are the norm. Might as well start learning! You may mess up one or two but it will be second nature before long. Associated sells diff grease and oil for ball diff, no weights involved. Grease #6588 diff lube #6591

Yes gear diffs need different weight oils to rebuild. I would get 2000,5000, 7000 and 10000 to be covered, if you stick with gear. I don't have any gear diff setups though. Associated also sells these weighted oils.
my cheap butt buys WEAVER BRAKE CLEANER FROM ADVANCE AUTO FOR 3.75--4.25 A CAN. i have used it for years an never had a problem. and it doesnt have a bad smell!!!!!!!! i hate paying 8.99-9.99 a can and its the same stuff.
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Old 12-05-2012 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mashimarowu
Well I'm not exactly racing just yet... more like practice. But your prob right, I will end up ball diffing my way through. If I spend all my money on those oils, I prob will end up with a ball diff conversion anyways.

Is there some certain parts that are better to use for the ball diff? I see that carbide balls might be better. Is this the conversion kit everyone uses: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...fferential-Kit ? or do you guys get separate parts?

BTW, what are the difference of the two bags of balls in the diff conversion kit?

Yeah thats the right diff. Asking what balls are best (ceramic, carbide) is like the Ford, Chevy. Or Democrat, Republican argument. Both work well, use what's cheap until you get it dialed in. When rebuilding you only need to replace the rings and balls so its about 10-15$. You can flip rings to use them twice and some balls last longer but that's the basics. There's plenty of break in videos, watch a few and go with what makes the most sense to you.
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Old 12-06-2012 | 08:23 AM
  #25204  
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Ford....
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Old 12-06-2012 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Ford....
Volkswagen
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Old 12-06-2012 | 08:54 AM
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Default CHEVY!!!!

Bowties for life!
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4.1 FT/WC-2012-10-16_08-28-36_888.jpg  
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Old 12-06-2012 | 10:20 AM
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Anyone else finding the Triad Slipper system to be noisey?

The spur gears seem to be quite loud, not sure why. Gapped them on the tight side, and the on the loose side, no change really. I usally just run the factory kimbrough gears and its super quite.

Not real happy with the racket.

Krom.
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Old 12-06-2012 | 10:31 AM
  #25208  
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Originally Posted by Kromulous
Anyone else finding the Triad Slipper system to be noisey?

The spur gears seem to be quite loud, not sure why. Gapped them on the tight side, and the on the loose side, no change really. I usally just run the factory kimbrough gears and its super quite.

Not real happy with the racket.

Krom.
Should be quiet , maybe a worn pinion or top shaft ?
Maybe something bent like a motor plate .....


My experience has been the Triad spurs are very quiet ..
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Old 12-06-2012 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Should be quiet , maybe a worn pinion or top shaft ?
Maybe something bent like a motor plate .....


My experience has been the Triad spurs are very quiet ..
+1
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Old 12-06-2012 | 11:08 AM
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I put the new JConcepts hex axles on last weekend. They work great...if you run JC front rims and or hex's. If you run AE rims and Avid hex's, you will need to run a thick axle washer just before you put the wheel nut on or they have a lot of play and the wheel flops around I hate throwing away $!
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Old 12-06-2012 | 11:38 AM
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So which esc do you guys use for 17.5? I'm looking to replace my sphere and sphere tc spec for something with more tunning options. I'm REALLY leaning forward to the Novak gtb2 drive LP version for its settings and made in USA but wonder if there is a better reason to spend $180-220 on a ESC when I can't use boost. Posted this in the electronics thread in a nutshell but probably should have just asked here because I want a focused response from the racers.

Thanks
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Old 12-06-2012 | 11:53 AM
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I love my SXX V2 with the stock/mod upgrade, loved it before the upgrade as well. Going to get a Flow soon to replace that. If you want extreme adjustability and good price take a good look at the viper stuff. Just the regular version, not the r. You can get a vtx10 black with the pro gauge for $175. Can't beat that. I ran one a couple weeks ago and it was good.
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Old 12-06-2012 | 11:57 AM
  #25213  
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Originally Posted by bilster44
I put the new JConcepts hex axles on last weekend. They work great...if you run JC front rims and or hex's. If you run AE rims and Avid hex's, you will need to run a thick axle washer just before you put the wheel nut on or they have a lot of play and the wheel flops around I hate throwing away $!
you may have the sc10 axles instead of b4 front axles. you should not need any washers with jc hexes on the b4.
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Old 12-06-2012 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 66Racer
So which esc do you guys use for 17.5? I'm looking to replace my sphere and sphere tc spec for something with more tunning options. I'm REALLY leaning forward to the Novak gtb2 drive LP version for its settings and made in USA but wonder if there is a better reason to spend $180-220 on a ESC when I can't use boost. Posted this in the electronics thread in a nutshell but probably should have just asked here because I want a focused response from the racers.

Thanks
I would try the viper vtx10
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Old 12-06-2012 | 12:42 PM
  #25215  
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Originally Posted by mccaul
you may have the sc10 axles instead of b4 front axles. you should not need any washers with jc hexes on the b4.
He is talking about the new JConcepts axles. Stating they work best with the JConcepts hexes. Go figure!
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