24LikesSC10 Thread Part 2
12-01-2012 | 05:18 PM
#1951
Tech Adept
iTrader: (25)
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 199
clamping hexes squeeze around the axle...over tightening the wheel nut just cinches down the plastic wheel, to the aluminum hex...which puts a minor amount of pressure on the pin. The pin is made from harder material than the hex (both the roll pins, and the solid pins...both are steel, hexes are aluminum...axle is steel) All of which is supported on its axis by 2 roller bearings. So you mean to tell me that plastic and aluminum are exerting enough force on 2 steel pins, and snapping them? But leaving the softer aluminum, plastic wheel, and 2 roller bearings intact??? (all of which should give way before the steel axle/pin would...rear bearing failure in the rear is a prime example of things working how they should)
I'm a CAD/CAM programmer/machinist/designer by trade (15 years) The shop I work for specializes in aerospace/defense. If you dont want to take my word for it, I can use my extensive Solidworks skills and whip up a 3d model of the entire front end and run a gambit of stress analysis tests on it...or you could send me a broken axle, and I will run some NDT (Non destructive testing) and hardness tests on each axle. I know this is overboard (and I'm doing a bit of e-flexing lol) but is it really so hard to believe that AE's (or thunder tigers) supplier (most likely chinese) MFG'd these axles out of shit material??? I guess the picture is probably a little more clear to me since I work around stuff like this daily.
anyways...
(btw, ran my sc10, t4.1, and my sons b4.1 last night at the track for about 6 hours...no axle failures lolol)
I'm a CAD/CAM programmer/machinist/designer by trade (15 years) The shop I work for specializes in aerospace/defense. If you dont want to take my word for it, I can use my extensive Solidworks skills and whip up a 3d model of the entire front end and run a gambit of stress analysis tests on it...or you could send me a broken axle, and I will run some NDT (Non destructive testing) and hardness tests on each axle. I know this is overboard (and I'm doing a bit of e-flexing lol) but is it really so hard to believe that AE's (or thunder tigers) supplier (most likely chinese) MFG'd these axles out of shit material??? I guess the picture is probably a little more clear to me since I work around stuff like this daily.
anyways...
(btw, ran my sc10, t4.1, and my sons b4.1 last night at the track for about 6 hours...no axle failures lolol)
As to why the axles are breaking, my guess its a material or processing defect. Many have said that sometimes they're good and sometimes their not.
Just my 2 cents.....and I'm a mechanical engineer. Ha ha.
12-01-2012 | 07:15 PM
#1953
I have 4 cars/trucks with the hex axles. My kid broke one in 2 laps and never hit much. and it broke. But non of my other have. I assume it was a bad and AE sent me a new pack. I have no real complaints about it.
12-01-2012 | 11:31 PM
#1954
I have run reedy sonic, tekin, RevTech, speed passion, and icon 17.5's. None come close to the schuur speed 17.5. I will not run anything but schuur speed in 17.5 stock class. I am not a pro by any means but I can tell through trial and error what motor is faster. Both torque and RPM.
12-02-2012 | 12:34 AM
#1955
I dropped my gen2 7.5 and it drives good. After one run my slipper was getting hot and losing power. I replaced my diff nut with one from my t4 an same issue but m t4 didn't do that. Anyone had this issue and I just bought new diff nuts. And other recommendations??
12-02-2012 | 07:06 AM
#1957
If the slipper was hot to the touch, then you can rest assured the pads are glazed. You want fresh, and clean pad material in contact with the slipper plates, so you can scrape the glazed portion off with an Xacto, flip the pads, or replace them.
Glazed pads will slip under a decent load, even with the slipper locked down. Once you get it cleaned up, make sure you set the slipper properly for the track.
12-02-2012 | 07:15 AM
#1958
On the topic of AE hex axles, I agree that there must been a bad batch shipped recently. Myself and another local race both upgraded about the same time. Both of us had the front axle threads strip almost immediately. We both went back to the original bearing style axle. Someday, I'll try another set, but am content for now.
12-02-2012 | 09:44 AM
#1959
Is there a conversion kit on which part numbers I need?
Slipper nut...I mean. I replaced it and had the same issue. Ever had this problem on my t4 and b4. Weird
I'm assuming you replaced the slipper nut, and not the diff nut, correct?
If the slipper was hot to the touch, then you can rest assured the pads are glazed. You want fresh, and clean pad material in contact with the slipper plates, so you can scrape the glazed portion off with an Xacto, flip the pads, or replace them.
Glazed pads will slip under a decent load, even with the slipper locked down. Once you get it cleaned up, make sure you set the slipper properly for the
track.
If the slipper was hot to the touch, then you can rest assured the pads are glazed. You want fresh, and clean pad material in contact with the slipper plates, so you can scrape the glazed portion off with an Xacto, flip the pads, or replace them.
Glazed pads will slip under a decent load, even with the slipper locked down. Once you get it cleaned up, make sure you set the slipper properly for the
track.
12-02-2012 | 10:01 AM
#1960
the vts bolts on just like the sc104x4. it replaces the outer slipper plate and pad. Pick up a B44 splipper spring also. not a b44.2, a b44.
12-02-2012 | 02:03 PM
#1961
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 44
What are you guys typically running for your steering endpoints?
I'm having a problem of too much steering/fast response with 1 bump steer spacer and too little/slow with 2 spacers. I'm running about 80% EPA on each side; maybe my settings are too restrictive?
I'm having a problem of too much steering/fast response with 1 bump steer spacer and too little/slow with 2 spacers. I'm running about 80% EPA on each side; maybe my settings are too restrictive?
12-02-2012 | 02:19 PM
#1962
IMO, your end points should be set to the mechanical limits of your steering assembly/suspension. I set mine so that the steering spindle hits the caster block. I set my EPA so that the servo isn't straining by trying to move past that point.
If you have too much steering, then I'd start with playing with your toe settings. If you still have too much steering, then use your dual rates, or turn the wheel less.
If you have too much steering, then I'd start with playing with your toe settings. If you still have too much steering, then use your dual rates, or turn the wheel less.
12-02-2012 | 02:42 PM
#1963
IMO, your end points should be set to the mechanical limits of your steering assembly/suspension. I set mine so that the steering spindle hits the caster block. I set my EPA so that the servo isn't straining by trying to move past that point.
If you have too much steering, then I'd start with playing with your toe settings. If you still have too much steering, then use your dual rates, or turn the wheel less.
If you have too much steering, then I'd start with playing with your toe settings. If you still have too much steering, then use your dual rates, or turn the wheel less.
12-02-2012 | 03:55 PM
#1965
bump steer is rarely changed. The only thing that is really changed much is shock setup, ball stud washers and maybe the A or C hub. And tires if you change tracks. I have tried creative tuning and always end up back at where everyone else is.