If you guys were to race on a cleaned, but non-sprayed concrete surface, what tires would you start with?

If it is smooth concrete it will be near impossible to get grip...maybe a capped tire might work. Rough concrete I don't know. Maybe white rears but the wear is going to be pretty fast.

To anyone running a 1-2s r10 pro, how do you get it to connect with the programming box?

Woohoo, a question on the 12th thread to which I can confidently reply as the expert!

Caps for a 12th are pretty much unobtainable. I know, I've been trying for 2 years. You can occasionally find some old caps on ebay, but that is the extent of it. I wrote to Bob Stormer, and even he couldn't help me. There is a company that advertises 12th caps but when you press them for a price and minimum order they stop responding.

Anyway, back to how to get the car to work. How clean the surface is, is important. Even when you think the surface is clean its probably still a little dusty, unless it has had a lot of running. The smoother the surface too, the more difficult it will be to get the car to work.

You want to use a Japanese foam because these have the highest rubber content. I'm using Speedminds. Find the softest possible foam for the rear. Currently I'm using Speedmind 30 shores. Rub in as much Banana Boat sunscreen as you can find, bake the sunscreen into the tyre with wrap-around tyre warmers at about 50-60 degrees Celsius.

For the front Speedmind 35 shore, or 32 shore when the grip comes up are a good start. Do not sauce the fronts at all.

Now, you will still have really low rear grip, so you'll want to dial in some mechanical grip. I'm using an Associated RC12R5.1, which has a side shock. 20 wt oil is as heavy as you want to get in the side shock. You won't want to use a harder side spring than silver. Green sometimes works better. The centre shock you'll also want to run soft, I suggest 20 to 25 wt, with no stiffer than a blue centre spring. Now, because the rear is so soft, you have to run the front a little softer too. 0.018" front springs are what you need, then run as much caster as the chassis allows. I'm running around 6*, with the active caster at 10*.

Use a high downforce body. Run a diffuser if you can find one. I've also toyed with using a motor fan to suck the car to the ground a bit. It works if your surface is smooth enough. There is nothing in the rules to stop you doing this. Tape up any other holes in the bottom of the chassis.

Now, if the surface is at all dusty, then the tyres will pick up the dust, and your grip will be reduced though the night. You will either have to take a skim off the rear tyres between runs, or have a new set available to swap to after each run. Beware of any chalk used on the surface, it will kill your grip in 2 laps.

Hope this helps.

I have read that 16g wire is fine for 13.5 blinky

Is it also ok for 10.5 blinky??

Also, where is a good place to fine low tooth 48p spur gears? ie, 60, with enough diff ball holes?

Cheers
Phill

Hi Radio Active,

When you mentioned "Caps" are you refering to Foam Donut Tyre ?

For me, I simply order from Japan. See
http://www.pro-s-futaba.co.jp/store/...ndex&cPath=193

I will go cheap and order the J Dash, 8 in a pack, 1102 Yen, "glue" and ture myself.

Thanks, but no. A cap is a soft rubber sleeve glued over the top of a foam tyre with flexible contact adhesive.

Here is a guide in Dutch, and for a Pro-10: http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/...tire-caps.html

with the supplied cable and then through the sensor port......

Your Dutch?
Haha, that's how I did it first on my pro10, and then Joost (the one from that tutorial) did it WAYYYY better!.... hahahaha... we use them as rain tyres like that.

No, I'm not Dutch. My German vocabulary is about 200 words, and that's as close as I can get to reading it without babelfish ha. I used the link for the pictures. Caps do work extremely well on dusty concrete, but alas no one makes them for 12th any more.

Aha, fair enough.

Interesting concept. The first thing that come to my mind is to use Bicycle inner tube.

Most of the time not soft enough. Also, exacerbating the problem, it's unusual for the thinnest softest bike tubes to be made in a large enough diameter.

According to the bike shop guys some of the top racing bikes these days don't even use inner tubes in their tyres.

Does not work on either of my 1-2s r10 pros.

I actually tried that back in the days of capped rubber tires on F1 cars...it was really really really bad.