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Old 11-09-2012 | 06:47 AM
  #541  
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Originally Posted by DJGray17
ok fellas I tried everything to figure out this problem but i still cant receive a conclusion to this problem. I took my b4.1 shocks off and put them on the b44.2 and still had the stiffness of the shocks. here's some pics. I appreciate all the help. Also, my al. hub is hitting the inside of my rears wheels when the shocks are fully engaged.
The instruction manual with pictures is your friend....
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Old 11-09-2012 | 07:14 AM
  #542  
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING
Here is the new one. I have never broke one in this spot but they must have had a reason for changing it. I would like to see them make some with out the webbing myself.
Thank you after I had time to look I seen the difference. Can't see any performance reason so I will just run the old one till I get a new updated one. Thanks for your help.
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Old 11-09-2012 | 07:41 AM
  #543  
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I've had my stock arms warp before. Maybe the webbing helps with that.
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Old 11-09-2012 | 08:01 AM
  #544  
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UN4, did you sand the edges of that top deck?? Those motor wires scare me..
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Old 11-09-2012 | 08:01 AM
  #545  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
I've had my stock arms warp before. Maybe the webbing helps with that.
I would guess it does..
I was thinking full plastic no holes. It would be stiffer for sure but stronger. Like the ones they use when testing a new platform.
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Old 11-10-2012 | 01:30 AM
  #546  
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Hmm is there a guide for setting the Slipper? it dosen't say anything in the manual?
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Old 11-10-2012 | 01:55 AM
  #547  
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Originally Posted by dMITIj
Hmm is there a guide for setting the Slipper? it dosen't say anything in the manual?
Page 23 & 24 in the kit manual has tuning tips. They do discuss the slipper a bit there.

Also, note on page 10 at the bottom left it shows a pic telling you the distance between the slipper nut and end of shaft should be set to about 2mm. It's actually incorrect (as is the 44.1 manual too) because to even get the nut & spring to start to screw down, it's far more than 2mm (using digital calipers here). What AE actually means here (and I learned from my B44.1 days) is that measurement should be the gap left between the slipper nut and the drive cup (once the drive cup has been connected). It's about 2mm on the newer longer VTS slipper in the 44.2 , but my 44.1 (single disc slipper) was a setting of about 10mm.

You'll need to set the car down and do a launch to listen for the whistle of the slipper take-off. Set that slip for about 1-2 feet before the whistle sound goes away.

Last edited by rigor; 11-10-2012 at 02:13 AM.
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Old 11-10-2012 | 04:34 AM
  #548  
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Originally Posted by rigor
Page 23 & 24 in the kit manual has tuning tips. They do discuss the slipper a bit there.

Also, note on page 10 at the bottom left it shows a pic telling you the distance between the slipper nut and end of shaft should be set to about 2mm. It's actually incorrect (as is the 44.1 manual too) because to even get the nut & spring to start to screw down, it's far more than 2mm (using digital calipers here). What AE actually means here (and I learned from my B44.1 days) is that measurement should be the gap left between the slipper nut and the drive cup (once the drive cup has been connected). It's about 2mm on the newer longer VTS slipper in the 44.2 , but my 44.1 (single disc slipper) was a setting of about 10mm.

You'll need to set the car down and do a launch to listen for the whistle of the slipper take-off. Set that slip for about 1-2 feet before the whistle sound goes away.
Hello rigor.

Thanks alot! thats what i wanted to know

i just don't whole get this part, bacause my english isen't the best:
"You'll need to set the car down and do a launch to listen for the whistle of the slipper take-off. Set that slip for about 1-2 feet before the whistle sound goes away."

ill have to find some more on that to whole sure

Best Regards.
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Old 11-10-2012 | 04:53 AM
  #549  
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ore is it some thing like this 6:20 min in the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YW7can6WjRw
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Old 11-10-2012 | 10:37 AM
  #550  
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Originally Posted by dMITIj
Hello rigor.

Thanks alot! thats what i wanted to know

i just don't whole get this part, bacause my english isen't the best:
"You'll need to set the car down and do a launch to listen for the whistle of the slipper take-off. Set that slip for about 1-2 feet before the whistle sound goes away."

ill have to find some more on that to whole sure

Best Regards.
Hi, trying a scandinavian translation here....:

placera bilen på avsett underlag, gör en fullgas start från stillastående, lyssna efter ett vinande ljud (inte som från kugghjul). Justera slippern så att det vinande ljudet upphör efter ca 0,3-0,6 meters acceleration.
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Old 11-10-2012 | 03:04 PM
  #551  
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Default servo saver spring compression

can someone tell me how much you have compress in mm the servo saver spring? on page8 of the manual said need have 1mm distance from Servo saver
spring to Servo saver for me it's almost full compressed
is that supposed to be? or its like the sliper they make it wrong?

thanks
chris
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Old 11-10-2012 | 05:01 PM
  #552  
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Originally Posted by mini-t12
I'm not going to lie, I've never seen anyone make that mistake before... but im glad you solved it
yeah I usually don't make those kind of mistakes. It's pretty embarrassing.
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Old 11-10-2012 | 05:33 PM
  #553  
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Drove car for first time tonight absolutley amazing . Test driving at The Track in Gaithersburg MD and was just insane straight out the box. Gonna race it tomorrow see how it does . Very happy with the car have zero complaints nor problems with assembly , solid vehicle.
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Old 11-10-2012 | 11:43 PM
  #554  
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Originally Posted by Chris Prelot
can someone tell me how much you have compress in mm the servo saver spring? on page8 of the manual said need have 1mm distance from Servo saver
spring to Servo saver for me it's almost full compressed
is that supposed to be? or its like the sliper they make it wrong?

thanks
chris
+1? (on page 7 in the manual)

Last edited by dMITIj; 11-11-2012 at 04:43 AM.
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Old 11-11-2012 | 06:35 AM
  #555  
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Tighten the servo saver till it is almost glued... I have mine as tight as I can get it. Servo savers are becoming extinct in 10th scales. Just be sure you run a quality servo. The books are just a starting point in most cases.

I ran my set up from my point one and the kit was real comfortable last night. I have never ran any ballast but I think this kit will need some weight between the battery. The box stock set up is good but the rear shocks need lighter weight in them IMO. And the weight as well. Last night was the first night out on the clock and I qualified second in a pretty fast crowd. I was not even driving it hard for fear i would break a tower or top plate. The only 2 things we don't stock at the shop right now. SO I am running the inner ball stud position on the from top plate for strength. This kit so far is awesome. It soars off the jumps. Much more stable ride than the .1 but I wont say its faster yet till I can make it feel like my .1 and my set up is kinda lazy in the apex right now to.

I am highly sold on the slipper.
I learned last night you can mod the pads for more or less bias front and rear slipping. Its as simple as thinner or thicker pads front to rear pads. I am going to need some time to figure this out...LOL.

I was bored with the .1, I felt like I had done all I could with it. But this kit has a lot more potential than the .1. Probably why there are no pro set ups out yet.? Its truly a new feel on the track. And I am happy there is still a ton of steering. It will out turn the .1 I think.
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