SC10 Thread Part 2
#1591
138.87 oz in of torque isn't way too much. The 0.12 sec transit speed is pushing it though. I don't notice is too much when making corrections though and that's where it matters.
#1595
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 171
First off, since its the RS, I would put some medium or thick ca glue on the 2 halves of the servo saver and make sure it's tightened all they way down, but don't over tighten it or you will strip it out.
Secondly to make it turn make sure your radio endpoints are allowing the wheels to be turned fully both directions and not stopping short.
Then move your battery all the way forward. If that doesn't do it then also use some stick on lead weights and add a 1/2 oz to each front triangle next to the servo.
Finally loosen you slipper so that it slips for a foot or so when you take off on high traction, like carpet. And to help the load on the slipper you can add the vts slipper from the 4x4 or get the Avid triad slipper set.
Secondly to make it turn make sure your radio endpoints are allowing the wheels to be turned fully both directions and not stopping short.
Then move your battery all the way forward. If that doesn't do it then also use some stick on lead weights and add a 1/2 oz to each front triangle next to the servo.
Finally loosen you slipper so that it slips for a foot or so when you take off on high traction, like carpet. And to help the load on the slipper you can add the vts slipper from the 4x4 or get the Avid triad slipper set.
#1596
with my old setup i put the savox in my truck and it would pull so much power it would shut off the reciever. It would take a couple seconds and reboot. I noticed this on my work bench. If i jiggled the steering really fast and looked at the reciever light it would go out and everything would shut off. Then it would turn back on and everything would be fine until i did it again needed to get a glitch buster. That fixed it now my new setup doesn't need it so i think it all depends on how your elec. hold the power in reserve
#1598
Has anyone noticed that they blow out in the inside rear bearings more or less with the aluminum hubs vs the plastic hubs? Same with ball studs on the hub? My daughter has gone through 4 bearings in the rear in 6 weeks and she has had 3 studs rip in half. Well actually my kid has. I am thinking the aluminum hubs are the main issue. I have some b44 plastic hubs that seem to have less issue. But my kid use 1.5 deg alum hubs and they dont make a plastic 1.5. She broke on the practice lap tonight, but the RD let her run my b4 in the main. She didnt do as well, but I told her to not break my buggy, lol. So she singled everything.
#1602
Has anyone noticed that they blow out in the inside rear bearings more or less with the aluminum hubs vs the plastic hubs? Same with ball studs on the hub? My daughter has gone through 4 bearings in the rear in 6 weeks and she has had 3 studs rip in half. Well actually my kid has. I am thinking the aluminum hubs are the main issue. I have some b44 plastic hubs that seem to have less issue. But my kid use 1.5 deg alum hubs and they dont make a plastic 1.5. She broke on the practice lap tonight, but the RD let her run my b4 in the main. She didnt do as well, but I told her to not break my buggy, lol. So she singled everything.
#1604
Has anyone noticed that they blow out in the inside rear bearings more or less with the aluminum hubs vs the plastic hubs? Same with ball studs on the hub? My daughter has gone through 4 bearings in the rear in 6 weeks and she has had 3 studs rip in half. Well actually my kid has. I am thinking the aluminum hubs are the main issue. I have some b44 plastic hubs that seem to have less issue. But my kid use 1.5 deg alum hubs and they dont make a plastic 1.5. She broke on the practice lap tonight, but the RD let her run my b4 in the main. She didnt do as well, but I told her to not break my buggy, lol. So she singled everything.
1.5deg
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Left-Right-GT2
#1605



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