The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread
10-26-2012 | 08:26 PM
#301
I'll take one, as I dont own the car, but #3
carbon fiber can start to fray or seperate a bit if not sealed. And hit or abrasion will accelerate it. Basically, sand it edges smooth, not going to too much extreme, but get rid of burrs. apply super glue with a cue tip or tooth pick to the edges to seal and strengthen the edge. Helps keep it from cracking and spitting. Cheap insurance. Time consuming, but well worth the effort.
carbon fiber can start to fray or seperate a bit if not sealed. And hit or abrasion will accelerate it. Basically, sand it edges smooth, not going to too much extreme, but get rid of burrs. apply super glue with a cue tip or tooth pick to the edges to seal and strengthen the edge. Helps keep it from cracking and spitting. Cheap insurance. Time consuming, but well worth the effort.
10-26-2012 | 08:29 PM
#302
I'll answer what I can quickly 
I have a strong passion for this car, but I'm having soooo much trouble really getting to know it with over 2500 posts in the B44.1 thread.... so I'm going to open a can of worms by asking some specific questions. I hope someone is willing to really throw down some details and provide me with some direction:
Here we go.........
First, I'll give you what I've decided on:
Of course --- B44.2
a. Tekin RS Pro w/7.5t Redline Motor
b. Savox 1256tg
Now for the questions: (and links are greatly appreciated)
1. Stock Spur I gather is 81T. What tooth pinion should I be running with this motor (keeping temps low) & what pitch? -------- What Mod? Mod 1?
It's 48 pitch. With a 7.5T start at 19 tooth pinion and go up from there. Check temps after 5 minutes of running, but you should be totally fine. I run a 20 on my 6.5T Reedy and after even 12-15 minute runs, my motor comes off about 140.
2. Shimming --- I hear about 3/6 rear and 4/4 front and 4/8.... etc. I get that the point is to make sure the mesh is tight and smooth with no slop, but what is everyone talking about with 4/8? I know it's the # of shims, but what side is what? ---------- And with that what is the part # for extra shims to purchase for the diffs? (that work with the B44.2). >>> Just need a clear answer how to shim these puppies. I have zero experience with Ball Diffs.
The B44.2 manual has been updated to show the correct number of shims and on which side. Ignore the B44.1 manual. The gearboxes are the same front/rear, so shimming should be the same.
3. Carbon fiber chassis gluing and whatnot: I have zero clue what this is all about. Something about sanding the edges then applying glue? Doesn't that make a major mess? -------- I'm sure there is SOMETHING on RCT with directions how to go about this on C/F parts, but I can't find it
.
Apparently a black Sharpie marker can be used to really deepen the black look on the part of the CF that shows the layers. I think most folks do apply CA glue carefully along the tops/side of both front/rear shock towers.
4. It is obvious there are things in the instruction manual that aren't necessarily necessarily correct about (the shimming being a perfect example). With that said --- what else aside from shimming do I need to know which should be done right from the start?
The shimming was the main thing "incorrect" in the B44.1 manual. Everything else, you're good to go. Pay close attention to your build and you'll be fine.
5. What add-on(s) -- or (Hop-ups if you will) are recommended right from the get go? I've seen some conversation here and there that the stock ballcups are somewhat weak & to replace them with an aftermarket brand (such as RPM, Lundsford, etc....). Is this necessary? If replacing the ballcups, must you also replace the ball studs? What brand would you recommend?
Other than a lot of folks do not like the AE ballcups (I suggest RPM), this is truly a race ready kit, with no upgrades needed. This is even more true with the .2 update, as it now has the VTS slipper and big bore shocks. Nothing else is needed aside from your preference of ballcups.
6. Is a BEC / Regulator required when running the Savox 1256tg servo?
Sorry can't assist here.
Basically --- I'm looking for a long comprehensive post that would answer the questions any noob would have entering the wonder world of the B44 series. I'm looking to be a serious competitor ---- I have a fairly good handle on 1/8th scale (buggy and truggy); but I need an indoor racer & this is it. Don't like Short Course.... bunch of hackers.
I understand the answer might be long to write & time consuming, but I truly would appreciate it & I know other noobs getting into this car would too. Please, just share all of your experience with the car & what wrenching should be done, needs to be done, parts, Mods, everything.
In advance --- thank you for your responses and I look forward to reading them and discussing them.
Here we go.........
First, I'll give you what I've decided on:
Of course --- B44.2
a. Tekin RS Pro w/7.5t Redline Motor
b. Savox 1256tg
Now for the questions: (and links are greatly appreciated)
1. Stock Spur I gather is 81T. What tooth pinion should I be running with this motor (keeping temps low) & what pitch? -------- What Mod? Mod 1?
It's 48 pitch. With a 7.5T start at 19 tooth pinion and go up from there. Check temps after 5 minutes of running, but you should be totally fine. I run a 20 on my 6.5T Reedy and after even 12-15 minute runs, my motor comes off about 140.
2. Shimming --- I hear about 3/6 rear and 4/4 front and 4/8.... etc. I get that the point is to make sure the mesh is tight and smooth with no slop, but what is everyone talking about with 4/8? I know it's the # of shims, but what side is what? ---------- And with that what is the part # for extra shims to purchase for the diffs? (that work with the B44.2). >>> Just need a clear answer how to shim these puppies. I have zero experience with Ball Diffs.
The B44.2 manual has been updated to show the correct number of shims and on which side. Ignore the B44.1 manual. The gearboxes are the same front/rear, so shimming should be the same.
3. Carbon fiber chassis gluing and whatnot: I have zero clue what this is all about. Something about sanding the edges then applying glue? Doesn't that make a major mess? -------- I'm sure there is SOMETHING on RCT with directions how to go about this on C/F parts, but I can't find it
.Apparently a black Sharpie marker can be used to really deepen the black look on the part of the CF that shows the layers. I think most folks do apply CA glue carefully along the tops/side of both front/rear shock towers.
4. It is obvious there are things in the instruction manual that aren't necessarily necessarily correct about (the shimming being a perfect example). With that said --- what else aside from shimming do I need to know which should be done right from the start?
The shimming was the main thing "incorrect" in the B44.1 manual. Everything else, you're good to go. Pay close attention to your build and you'll be fine.
5. What add-on(s) -- or (Hop-ups if you will) are recommended right from the get go? I've seen some conversation here and there that the stock ballcups are somewhat weak & to replace them with an aftermarket brand (such as RPM, Lundsford, etc....). Is this necessary? If replacing the ballcups, must you also replace the ball studs? What brand would you recommend?
Other than a lot of folks do not like the AE ballcups (I suggest RPM), this is truly a race ready kit, with no upgrades needed. This is even more true with the .2 update, as it now has the VTS slipper and big bore shocks. Nothing else is needed aside from your preference of ballcups.
6. Is a BEC / Regulator required when running the Savox 1256tg servo?
Sorry can't assist here.
Basically --- I'm looking for a long comprehensive post that would answer the questions any noob would have entering the wonder world of the B44 series. I'm looking to be a serious competitor ---- I have a fairly good handle on 1/8th scale (buggy and truggy); but I need an indoor racer & this is it. Don't like Short Course.... bunch of hackers.
I understand the answer might be long to write & time consuming, but I truly would appreciate it & I know other noobs getting into this car would too. Please, just share all of your experience with the car & what wrenching should be done, needs to be done, parts, Mods, everything.
In advance --- thank you for your responses and I look forward to reading them and discussing them.
10-26-2012 | 08:52 PM
#303
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
Some great answers thus far. Thanks for taking the time to answer some of my questions and provide some links. By all means --- keep it coming. Anything that comes to mind.
I'm relieved to hear the B44.2 doesn't need much done to it. You said they fixed the shim issue --- I'd be curious to look at the manual and see how many they are having people put on there.
Wayne did a good job earlier kind of laying out what to do about ball diffs --- Is there a link similar to that carbon fiber edge sealing link that goes over this step by step?
I'm relieved to hear the B44.2 doesn't need much done to it. You said they fixed the shim issue --- I'd be curious to look at the manual and see how many they are having people put on there.
Wayne did a good job earlier kind of laying out what to do about ball diffs --- Is there a link similar to that carbon fiber edge sealing link that goes over this step by step?
10-26-2012 | 09:11 PM
#305
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
Oh, nice. I'll go right there and take a look at it.
Another question came up --- what is this deal with chassis protectors on the underside? I've seen a few for sale, and they come in different sizes
-- Do you know what we'll need for this car? Perhaps a link or suggestions for the chassis stick on protector stuff...
Another question came up --- what is this deal with chassis protectors on the underside? I've seen a few for sale, and they come in different sizes
-- Do you know what we'll need for this car? Perhaps a link or suggestions for the chassis stick on protector stuff...
10-26-2012 | 09:59 PM
#307
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
I'm assuming these will work on the stock ball studs?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Ball-Cups-12
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Ball-Cups-12
10-26-2012 | 10:00 PM
#308
Oh, nice. I'll go right there and take a look at it.
Another question came up --- what is this deal with chassis protectors on the underside? I've seen a few for sale, and they come in different sizes -- Do you know what we'll need for this car? Perhaps a link or suggestions for the chassis stick on protector stuff...
Another question came up --- what is this deal with chassis protectors on the underside? I've seen a few for sale, and they come in different sizes
-- Do you know what we'll need for this car? Perhaps a link or suggestions for the chassis stick on protector stuff...
10-26-2012 | 10:44 PM
#309
Something that really is make or break for 4wd cars is proper throttle feel. It is hands down the most important part that is not properly addressed. A light 4wd near 50/50 weight distribution with all 4 wheels hooked up directly to an electric motor is dramatically influenced by the way the motor, throttle curve, drag brake, and push brake feel.
Almost every 4wd somebody hands me and says "here, you tell me what's wrong" is under geared or has unhelpful drag brake. This makes the car very touchy and hard to drive. Drag brake, which can be used by experienced drivers, tends to really make a 4wd have so much instant steering when least expected for those new to 4wd that it's just a hand full and very discouraging.
The other side of the throttle control coin is having a throttle curve that, for whatever reason, the car doesn't move until you're 1/4 in on the throttle, such as with a castle controller and a sensored motor. Usually this can be fixed pretty easily.
My strategy is this:
Linear throttle profile (resist the urge to use expo)! No drag brake. Gear up until it gets to temp after 10 minutes (160-170F). Adjust throttle epa down till you can handle it. Adjust brake epa down until you have just enough power to slow down for the most aggressive parts of the track.
Seriously. Throttle/brake control/feel is just as critical as tire selection and ride height.
Almost every 4wd somebody hands me and says "here, you tell me what's wrong" is under geared or has unhelpful drag brake. This makes the car very touchy and hard to drive. Drag brake, which can be used by experienced drivers, tends to really make a 4wd have so much instant steering when least expected for those new to 4wd that it's just a hand full and very discouraging.
The other side of the throttle control coin is having a throttle curve that, for whatever reason, the car doesn't move until you're 1/4 in on the throttle, such as with a castle controller and a sensored motor. Usually this can be fixed pretty easily.
My strategy is this:
Linear throttle profile (resist the urge to use expo)! No drag brake. Gear up until it gets to temp after 10 minutes (160-170F). Adjust throttle epa down till you can handle it. Adjust brake epa down until you have just enough power to slow down for the most aggressive parts of the track.
Seriously. Throttle/brake control/feel is just as critical as tire selection and ride height.
10-28-2012 | 11:22 AM
#312
The 44.1 is an awesome car out of the box. Hell, most people don't even deviate from the stock setup.
When I started running the class, I added weight between the saddle packs to calm the rear down, but that's gone now that I have a feel for it. 4WD buggy is my favorite class, as you have so much more control than you would in a 2WD class.
@ Sarinexia: I'm running an RS Pro/Orion 7.5 combo. I'm running a 23-tooth pinion just about everywhere I go, and might get to 150 after 8 min. The Tekin will have a lot more punch than my motor down low, so you may go a tooth or 2 higher.
When I started running the class, I added weight between the saddle packs to calm the rear down, but that's gone now that I have a feel for it. 4WD buggy is my favorite class, as you have so much more control than you would in a 2WD class.
@ Sarinexia: I'm running an RS Pro/Orion 7.5 combo. I'm running a 23-tooth pinion just about everywhere I go, and might get to 150 after 8 min. The Tekin will have a lot more punch than my motor down low, so you may go a tooth or 2 higher.
10-28-2012 | 01:23 PM
#313
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
Yo Top Shot,
Are you running at RC Excitement?
I'm worried to go to a 21 tooth pinion. Scared of over gearing.
I was going to order a 19T pinion w/stock spur, but if the consensus thinks otherwise, perhaps I can be swayed 
BTW --- B44.2 ordered!
Are you running at RC Excitement?
I'm worried to go to a 21 tooth pinion. Scared of over gearing.
I was going to order a 19T pinion w/stock spur, but if the consensus thinks otherwise, perhaps I can be swayed BTW --- B44.2 ordered!
The 44.1 is an awesome car out of the box. Hell, most people don't even deviate from the stock setup.
When I started running the class, I added weight between the saddle packs to calm the rear down, but that's gone now that I have a feel for it. 4WD buggy is my favorite class, as you have so much more control than you would in a 2WD class.
@ Sarinexia: I'm running an RS Pro/Orion 7.5 combo. I'm running a 23-tooth pinion just about everywhere I go, and might get to 150 after 8 min. The Tekin will have a lot more punch than my motor down low, so you may go a tooth or 2 higher.
When I started running the class, I added weight between the saddle packs to calm the rear down, but that's gone now that I have a feel for it. 4WD buggy is my favorite class, as you have so much more control than you would in a 2WD class.
@ Sarinexia: I'm running an RS Pro/Orion 7.5 combo. I'm running a 23-tooth pinion just about everywhere I go, and might get to 150 after 8 min. The Tekin will have a lot more punch than my motor down low, so you may go a tooth or 2 higher.
10-28-2012 | 01:56 PM
#314
I run up there occasionally, nicest facility around.
I ran in the JC race 2 weeks ago, and had a blast.
They have a long straight, so I would definitely start with at least a 20 tooth and go up from there. I came off cooler up there than I do at home (even after going up 4 teeth) due to the long straight and higher speeds.
Just remember to check temps every 3 min.
edit: I'm also running a Proline Bulldog body with all of the vents cut out, and it won't get anywhere near 160 unless I push it for 10 min or more.
edit2: If you're going to be running upp there frequently, Wilder is the Associated guy to get to know up there. If the .2 is anything like the .1, you'll just throw it down and learn to drive it. The hardest part of 4WD is NOT overdriving the car. Come into the corners under control and power out accordingly. It's fun to throw it around, but you're not doing anything but wasting time.
I ran in the JC race 2 weeks ago, and had a blast.
They have a long straight, so I would definitely start with at least a 20 tooth and go up from there. I came off cooler up there than I do at home (even after going up 4 teeth) due to the long straight and higher speeds.
Just remember to check temps every 3 min.
edit: I'm also running a Proline Bulldog body with all of the vents cut out, and it won't get anywhere near 160 unless I push it for 10 min or more.
edit2: If you're going to be running upp there frequently, Wilder is the Associated guy to get to know up there. If the .2 is anything like the .1, you'll just throw it down and learn to drive it. The hardest part of 4WD is NOT overdriving the car. Come into the corners under control and power out accordingly. It's fun to throw it around, but you're not doing anything but wasting time.
