2LikesXray T4 '13
10-20-2012 | 11:08 AM
#857
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,951
From: Windsor, UK
Bumper Issue solved 
;
Cut out most of the first top brace mainly to help fit my PT in the bumper (note cut bumper foam ready for PT)
Mount second brace over first, but upside down (sandwiching PT between foam and upper brace)
Bumper brace now almost up against bulkheads (like T3) and PT mounted as far forward as possible
The brace's have an enlarged section where they used to line up with the bulkheads, this is why the upper brace must be upside down.
This shot might show slightly better what I mean here;
;Cut out most of the first top brace mainly to help fit my PT in the bumper (note cut bumper foam ready for PT)
Mount second brace over first, but upside down (sandwiching PT between foam and upper brace)
Bumper brace now almost up against bulkheads (like T3) and PT mounted as far forward as possible
The brace's have an enlarged section where they used to line up with the bulkheads, this is why the upper brace must be upside down.
This shot might show slightly better what I mean here;
10-20-2012 | 02:35 PM
#861
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 54
From: Wiltshire United Kingdom.
Miniripper,
Just wondering, can you take a closer pic of the front bumper area with the t3 number? I would love to get a t4 but the bumper scares me (I still hit the wall a lot).
Also, what are the orange screws on the top deck for? I have seen these and often wondered what the practical use for them is. The only thing I could come up with is that is allows the use of a machined screw so you don't need a bunch of different screws in your bin.
Thanks for the info. I love the pictures! It allows me in the states to live vicariously through you over the pond.
Just wondering, can you take a closer pic of the front bumper area with the t3 number? I would love to get a t4 but the bumper scares me (I still hit the wall a lot).
Also, what are the orange screws on the top deck for? I have seen these and often wondered what the practical use for them is. The only thing I could come up with is that is allows the use of a machined screw so you don't need a bunch of different screws in your bin.
Thanks for the info. I love the pictures! It allows me in the states to live vicariously through you over the pond.
10-20-2012 | 02:56 PM
#864
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,650
From: Bristol, UK
10-20-2012 | 03:06 PM
#865
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 54
From: Wiltshire United Kingdom.
Yea I'm set up at a track for tomorrow's race meet. CWIC.
See you tomorrow Dave.
See you tomorrow Dave.
10-20-2012 | 03:33 PM
#867
Tech Regular
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 301
From: San Diego, CA
Not sure how to ask this question but I'm intending to get a T4 as my first competitive touring car (dabbled a bit years ago) and I'd like to understand something about adding weight to balance the left/right balance and achieve minimum ROAR weight. I realize this depends on my electronics so here's what I'm intending to put in the car in case it helps:
- VTX10 ESC
- Futaba R603FS receiver
- Futaba S9551 servo
- Older/classic AMB transponder
- Motor not sure yet but these don't vary too much in weight I imagine
- Battery: as much capacity (with high C rating) as I can do without putting more weight on the battery side than the other side.
I guess I'm wondering:
1 - Can a high capacity lipo cause the battery side of the car to be heaviest? Or am I almost guaranteed that the battery side will be light than the other side regardless of a 4000 mah battery versus 6500 mah for example. I'd be looking at the higher end Reedys.
2 - What about minimum ROAR weight - do you think the higher capacity battery would put me over the min or will I still tend to need weights?
Thanks all, I can experiment but I'm hoping to not have to buy two $100+ batteries just to find out!
PS - I realize that keeping weight lower is better. So a lower capacity battery plus weights is better than a higher capacity battery and no weights. However, I'd prefer the higher capacity for longer run times. I also realize I'll use far less than even a 4000 mah battery per run but for me, bigger is better for more practice time.
- VTX10 ESC
- Futaba R603FS receiver
- Futaba S9551 servo
- Older/classic AMB transponder
- Motor not sure yet but these don't vary too much in weight I imagine
- Battery: as much capacity (with high C rating) as I can do without putting more weight on the battery side than the other side.
I guess I'm wondering:
1 - Can a high capacity lipo cause the battery side of the car to be heaviest? Or am I almost guaranteed that the battery side will be light than the other side regardless of a 4000 mah battery versus 6500 mah for example. I'd be looking at the higher end Reedys.
2 - What about minimum ROAR weight - do you think the higher capacity battery would put me over the min or will I still tend to need weights?
Thanks all, I can experiment but I'm hoping to not have to buy two $100+ batteries just to find out!
PS - I realize that keeping weight lower is better. So a lower capacity battery plus weights is better than a higher capacity battery and no weights. However, I'd prefer the higher capacity for longer run times. I also realize I'll use far less than even a 4000 mah battery per run but for me, bigger is better for more practice time.
10-20-2012 | 03:49 PM
#868
Not sure how to ask this question but I'm intending to get a T4 as my first competitive touring car (dabbled a bit years ago) and I'd like to understand something about adding weight to balance the left/right balance and achieve minimum ROAR weight. I realize this depends on my electronics so here's what I'm intending to put in the car in case it helps:
- VTX10 ESC
- Futaba R603FS receiver
- Futaba S9551 servo
- Older/classic AMB transponder
- Motor not sure yet but these don't vary too much in weight I imagine
- Battery: as much capacity (with high C rating) as I can do without putting more weight on the battery side than the other side.
I guess I'm wondering:
1 - Can a high capacity lipo cause the battery side of the car to be heaviest? Or am I almost guaranteed that the battery side will be light than the other side regardless of a 4000 mah battery versus 6500 mah for example. I'd be looking at the higher end Reedys.
2 - What about minimum ROAR weight - do you think the higher capacity battery would put me over the min or will I still tend to need weights?
Thanks all, I can experiment but I'm hoping to not have to buy two $100+ batteries just to find out!
PS - I realize that keeping weight lower is better. So a lower capacity battery plus weights is better than a higher capacity battery and no weights. However, I'd prefer the higher capacity for longer run times. I also realize I'll use far less than even a 4000 mah battery per run but for me, bigger is better for more practice time.
- VTX10 ESC
- Futaba R603FS receiver
- Futaba S9551 servo
- Older/classic AMB transponder
- Motor not sure yet but these don't vary too much in weight I imagine
- Battery: as much capacity (with high C rating) as I can do without putting more weight on the battery side than the other side.
I guess I'm wondering:
1 - Can a high capacity lipo cause the battery side of the car to be heaviest? Or am I almost guaranteed that the battery side will be light than the other side regardless of a 4000 mah battery versus 6500 mah for example. I'd be looking at the higher end Reedys.
2 - What about minimum ROAR weight - do you think the higher capacity battery would put me over the min or will I still tend to need weights?
Thanks all, I can experiment but I'm hoping to not have to buy two $100+ batteries just to find out!
PS - I realize that keeping weight lower is better. So a lower capacity battery plus weights is better than a higher capacity battery and no weights. However, I'd prefer the higher capacity for longer run times. I also realize I'll use far less than even a 4000 mah battery per run but for me, bigger is better for more practice time.