Hideeho
Its hard to diagnose with out spinning it my self. You mention using 25wt shock oil, but not clear or black grease. You are using clear grease on the dif balls & black grease on the thrust balls & the 25wt to lube the gears, right? If you are not using clear & black greese I would recommend rebuilding, again, & using it. If you are using greece, & probably even if you aren't since you got the buggy used, replace all the dif balls & thrust balls.

Everyone on here will tell you a different combination of balls is the best. My recommendation is get the cheapest balls you can for the 1st rebuild or 2 & get extras (you will need them learning to set a ball dif up). Once you learn to set up the dif, experiment with carbide & ceramic for dif & thrust to find what combo work best for you.

Anyone using gear diff in B4.1? I run it in my SC10 and like the reliability. My buggy is still very fresh so no issues yet from ball diff...but when i do have an issue i am considering going to gear diff.

Hey guys...new to the thread here..

I just picked up a new b4.1 worlds kit. I've got a painter doing the body and its taken longer than expected. What seems to work better, the Proline +8mm body or the JC finnisher/ punisher body? I'd like to order one or if anyone is getting rid of one by next weekend.

Thanks!

I prefer the JC bodies, go with the finnisher.

Depends on where you're racing. I like the look of the bulldog, so i went with that.

Finnisher

Okay. Thanks! I'll soon be going to ball diffs in my buggy and SC10.

If you use any lube, oil, grease , Pledge, ect ?

you will risk contaminating the diff lube and ruining the diff .


Just use the clear silicon diff lube on the gears or nothing at all ....



Waflet Hideeho

Sorry did not notice you flipping the c-brace .

Not sure about that flipping that part though .
The camber link position will not be stock and each camber position longer .
You have changed the geometry of the link ....

Would avoid changing and why the BB shock
instructions advise to do as suggested .

Shimming the shock changes very little , changing the camber link positions is big .

since he is still using the same hole on the tower the geometry has not been changed becasue it is still the same perpendicular distance from the outer hinge pin.

just like if you were to change the front outer ball ends on the front of the schumacher svr to a straight end and extend the ball stud, the camber link would be shorter compared to distance of the two ball studs before the change. or like the old jconcepts ends that cleared the rims under exteme movement, the link was techincally longer if you travelled the length of the camber rod but it wont affect the geometry.

the only way this could effect geometry is if the arms were pivot ball suspension. then the postion would effect castor change and other things.

Does anyone have close up pics of cars from the associated drivers that have big bores? Its hard to believe that they would run the car if the springs hit the turn buckles under driving conditions. I'm going to run the car with a flippped c tower and with associated's recommendations to see if there are major handling differences due to the slighly changed geometry.

Its hard to swallow paying $100 for something that is going to be rubbed down to bare metal because there isn't an absolute mounting solution. I would rather see a b4.2 rather than a B5 so that I can simply update anything related to mounting the shocks so they aren't rigged plus,my car would still be considered current...lol

If you build/install them per instructions, there is no issue. I did swap the plastic spacers for 2mm and 1mm AE ballstud shims.

Mine I'd done per instruction as well.
No probs

Anyone know a good gearing for a Revtek 17.5t Motor? with a Tekin rs?

try 35/72....... run for 3 minute and test temp.

Here's a close up. No rubbing, no tower flip.