RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Man, did I hack my front shock tower trying to notch it out for the big bores. I like my stuff looking new so I won't be running that tower, lol. Luckily I have a spare tower but I'm going to get a smaller attachment because the grinding attachment radius was much bigger than the ae video showed.
My rear big bores will be in on wednesday but I want the front to be completed by then.
Also, the track I go to everyone runs slicks, which I made out of my hot bodies pink tires with stock foam. A guy there said the tires felt soft and that I should've used closed cell. Would traction be that much better with the firmer closed cell foams?
My rear big bores will be in on wednesday but I want the front to be completed by then.
Also, the track I go to everyone runs slicks, which I made out of my hot bodies pink tires with stock foam. A guy there said the tires felt soft and that I should've used closed cell. Would traction be that much better with the firmer closed cell foams?
I was hoping someone before me had done the same, but I know they're listed
Thanks again guys.
I picked up a set of the 12 BB shocks this past week. I am very disappointed! The finish on my rears are terrible. The one cartridge has a small spot that it looks the finish was rubbed off. That I can deal with.. The bigger problem is the rears also seem to suck air from the bottom. I ran the car for about 3 minutes then the rear got real loose. I pulled the springs and checked rebound to fine that they are now rebounding all the way out. I built them with normal rebound and the exact way the paper says. I also used green slim on the red orings. My fronts are fine with no problems. I spoke with our local team driver and he is having the same problem and has since switched back to the standard v2's. is anyone else having these problems??
For how little o-ring stiction there is i can care less if i have to top off my shocks before my main. Im assuming the air is coming up past the o-rings and increasing pressure in the shocks but its not enough for me to fiddle around with o-rings quite yet. I get barely any seepage from my o-rings and they perform great on the track. I will service my shocks before my qualifiers then before my main i will take the caps off, add a little bit of fluid then bleed them like normal and set them to zero rebound. Did i mention these shocks are butter smooth?
Mine were going to about maybe half rebound after a few runs. Are you re-bleeding them after you initially push the shaft all the way up to get the excess oil out?
I am gonna hold off on buying them now until this issue is nailed down.
after building your shocks and bleeding them, screw in your bleeder screw, and pump them for a few seconds. then rebleed them again. you'll have a little built up pressure in there, giving you a little more oil to bleed. you should be good to go after that. check the rebound after a run.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R0Dtzyz3UU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcojRNm8Sh4
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
if you're not too keen on the big bores check out x-factory paul sinclair's video on big bores. it has some good advice for some.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R0Dtzyz3UU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcojRNm8Sh4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R0Dtzyz3UU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcojRNm8Sh4

this is exactly why I'm not rushing to grab my shocks. I'll get em... just have other stuff to get first
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 527
I did like my v2s and had them working very well but i have been running consistently faster laps with the big bores.
I dont feel any of this is a reason not to get them but so be it wait if you want but im happy with mine. Maybe if i have some time i will try some more back to back testing with my v2's and i still need to try out these AE big bore springs. I have been working with my stadium truck lately and its too much fun to put down, and yes it has the AE big bores too



