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Old 10-15-2012 | 05:28 PM
  #22351  
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Man, did I hack my front shock tower trying to notch it out for the big bores. I like my stuff looking new so I won't be running that tower, lol. Luckily I have a spare tower but I'm going to get a smaller attachment because the grinding attachment radius was much bigger than the ae video showed.

My rear big bores will be in on wednesday but I want the front to be completed by then.

Also, the track I go to everyone runs slicks, which I made out of my hot bodies pink tires with stock foam. A guy there said the tires felt soft and that I should've used closed cell. Would traction be that much better with the firmer closed cell foams?
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Old 10-15-2012 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bds81175
Not sure if he's doing it anymore or not but EvanAZ was selling AE screw kits to raise money for cars for kids at his local track. Try hittin' him up. He's a good fella.
I'll check, thanks!

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
check the instruction manual , all of the screws are listed .
I was hoping someone before me had done the same, but I know they're listed

Originally Posted by ufoDziner
Thank you very much, I'll check them out!!

Thanks again guys.
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Old 10-15-2012 | 06:36 PM
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ok, I weighed my buggy. 1582g race weight. that sound about right?
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Old 10-15-2012 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by trickedyfz450
I picked up a set of the 12 BB shocks this past week. I am very disappointed! The finish on my rears are terrible. The one cartridge has a small spot that it looks the finish was rubbed off. That I can deal with.. The bigger problem is the rears also seem to suck air from the bottom. I ran the car for about 3 minutes then the rear got real loose. I pulled the springs and checked rebound to fine that they are now rebounding all the way out. I built them with normal rebound and the exact way the paper says. I also used green slim on the red orings. My fronts are fine with no problems. I spoke with our local team driver and he is having the same problem and has since switched back to the standard v2's. is anyone else having these problems??
Originally Posted by MikeFriery
Somethings not sealed.. make sure your cap o ring isn't bunched up and all the seals are in place.. i wouldn't run the bleeder screw o-ring.. none of the AE guys do.
Thats what I forgot to say in the BB thread. I took off the bleeder screw o-ring after practice and one qualifier.
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Old 10-15-2012 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
ok, I weighed my buggy. 1582g race weight. that sound about right?
Mine is 1539g race weight.
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Old 10-15-2012 | 06:42 PM
  #22356  
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Originally Posted by Eli
For how little o-ring stiction there is i can care less if i have to top off my shocks before my main. Im assuming the air is coming up past the o-rings and increasing pressure in the shocks but its not enough for me to fiddle around with o-rings quite yet. I get barely any seepage from my o-rings and they perform great on the track. I will service my shocks before my qualifiers then before my main i will take the caps off, add a little bit of fluid then bleed them like normal and set them to zero rebound. Did i mention these shocks are butter smooth?
his shocks went from built with minimal rebound to full rebound in a 3 minute run... you could see his car go from hooked to junk during the heat. that is what lead to us checking them after the round.
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Old 10-15-2012 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Ward
Mine is 1539g race weight.
shorty?
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Old 10-15-2012 | 06:51 PM
  #22358  
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Originally Posted by ShtLuck
his shocks went from built with minimal rebound to full rebound in a 3 minute run... you could see his car go from hooked to junk during the heat. that is what lead to us checking them after the round.
Mine were going to about maybe half rebound after a few runs. Are you re-bleeding them after you initially push the shaft all the way up to get the excess oil out?
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Old 10-15-2012 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Eli
Mine were going to about maybe half rebound after a few runs. Are you re-bleeding them after you initially push the shaft all the way up to get the excess oil out?
I would trust bob to build my stuff, I am sure it was right. Its only the rears also. Plus after watching us a team driver checked his and found the same thing happening.
I am gonna hold off on buying them now until this issue is nailed down.
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Old 10-15-2012 | 07:03 PM
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after building your shocks and bleeding them, screw in your bleeder screw, and pump them for a few seconds. then rebleed them again. you'll have a little built up pressure in there, giving you a little more oil to bleed. you should be good to go after that. check the rebound after a run.
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Old 10-15-2012 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
shorty?
No, I dont have a shorty yet but would like to try one.
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Old 10-15-2012 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ShtLuck
I would trust bob to build my stuff, I am sure it was right. Its only the rears also. Plus after watching us a team driver checked his and found the same thing happening.
I am gonna hold off on buying them now until this issue is nailed down.
if you're not too keen on the big bores check out x-factory paul sinclair's video on big bores. it has some good advice for some.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R0Dtzyz3UU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcojRNm8Sh4
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Old 10-15-2012 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by littlevette
if you're not too keen on the big bores check out x-factory paul sinclair's video on big bores. it has some good advice for some.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R0Dtzyz3UU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcojRNm8Sh4
AHHHHHMMMMGGGG THE BLASPHEMY




this is exactly why I'm not rushing to grab my shocks. I'll get em... just have other stuff to get first
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Old 10-15-2012 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 07Forester
IIRC. In the package for the hex conversion it tells you to remove them...
Just wanted to make sure this is correct, I had nothing in my rear wheel hex packaging that told me to remove the stock blue cone washer before putting the rear hex on?
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Old 10-15-2012 | 09:03 PM
  #22365  
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Originally Posted by ShtLuck
I would trust bob to build my stuff, I am sure it was right. Its only the rears also. Plus after watching us a team driver checked his and found the same thing happening.
I am gonna hold off on buying them now until this issue is nailed down.
Im not saying anyone did anything wrong. I did hear that some different o-rings are in the works.

I did like my v2s and had them working very well but i have been running consistently faster laps with the big bores.

I dont feel any of this is a reason not to get them but so be it wait if you want but im happy with mine. Maybe if i have some time i will try some more back to back testing with my v2's and i still need to try out these AE big bore springs. I have been working with my stadium truck lately and its too much fun to put down, and yes it has the AE big bores too
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