RC10B4.1 FT/WC
10-15-2012 | 01:57 PM
the stock ballstuds were long enough for me to put a nut on the bottom threads below the u-brace. i've seen some guys that run the shaved brace where their ballstud pulled out of the brace because there's less material for the ballstud to grab onto. the only thing is that it will be a pain in the ass to take the ballstud out if i need to add/remove washers or move it to the outside hole.
10-15-2012 | 02:04 PM
I think that was in reference to the avid A/C tower.
Yeah, that was my thinking also, broken studs in the alum brace. The plastic ubrace is trash. I wear those out after 2 weekends. I either strip the hole, rip the stud in half or rip a chunk out of the brace. The weekend I stripped out the hole. The stud was not staying tight, I had to re-tighten after every heat and it just work it out. I like the carbon, but it normally breaks after shaving. 8th scale large jumps ftw. Plus you have to factor in my driving, lol. Might try putting a nut under the brace on the ball stud to prevent the stripping.
Yeah, that was my thinking also, broken studs in the alum brace. The plastic ubrace is trash. I wear those out after 2 weekends. I either strip the hole, rip the stud in half or rip a chunk out of the brace. The weekend I stripped out the hole. The stud was not staying tight, I had to re-tighten after every heat and it just work it out. I like the carbon, but it normally breaks after shaving. 8th scale large jumps ftw. Plus you have to factor in my driving, lol. Might try putting a nut under the brace on the ball stud to prevent the stripping.
Carbon brace is the way to go. I also haven't had a problem with my Avid towers breaking, and I don't use a spacer.
10-15-2012 | 02:08 PM
10-15-2012 | 03:55 PM
I picked up a set of the 12 BB shocks this past week. I am very disappointed! The finish on my rears are terrible. The one cartridge has a small spot that it looks the finish was rubbed off. That I can deal with.. The bigger problem is the rears also seem to suck air from the bottom. I ran the car for about 3 minutes then the rear got real loose. I pulled the springs and checked rebound to fine that they are now rebounding all the way out. I built them with normal rebound and the exact way the paper says. I also used green slim on the red orings. My fronts are fine with no problems. I spoke with our local team driver and he is having the same problem and has since switched back to the standard v2's. is anyone else having these problems??
10-15-2012 | 04:00 PM
I picked up a set of the 12 BB shocks this past week. I am very disappointed! The finish on my rears are terrible. The one cartridge has a small spot that it looks the finish was rubbed off. That I can deal with.. The bigger problem is the rears also seem to suck air from the bottom. I ran the car for about 3 minutes then the rear got real loose. I pulled the springs and checked rebound to fine that they are now rebounding all the way out. I built them with normal rebound and the exact way the paper says. I also used green slim on the red orings. My fronts are fine with no problems. I spoke with our local team driver and he is having the same problem and has since switched back to the standard v2's. is anyone else having these problems??
10-15-2012 | 04:26 PM
Somethings not sealed.. make sure your cap o ring isn't bunched up and all the seals are in place.. i wouldn't run the bleeder screw o-ring.. none of the AE guys do.
10-15-2012 | 04:31 PM
I think that was in reference to the avid A/C tower.
Yeah, that was my thinking also, broken studs in the alum brace. The plastic ubrace is trash. I wear those out after 2 weekends. I either strip the hole, rip the stud in half or rip a chunk out of the brace. The weekend I stripped out the hole. The stud was not staying tight, I had to re-tighten after every heat and it just work it out. I like the carbon, but it normally breaks after shaving. 8th scale large jumps ftw. Plus you have to factor in my driving, lol. Might try putting a nut under the brace on the ball stud to prevent the stripping.
Yeah, that was my thinking also, broken studs in the alum brace. The plastic ubrace is trash. I wear those out after 2 weekends. I either strip the hole, rip the stud in half or rip a chunk out of the brace. The weekend I stripped out the hole. The stud was not staying tight, I had to re-tighten after every heat and it just work it out. I like the carbon, but it normally breaks after shaving. 8th scale large jumps ftw. Plus you have to factor in my driving, lol. Might try putting a nut under the brace on the ball stud to prevent the stripping.
10-15-2012 | 05:20 PM
the air has to be coming in on compression, thus from the bottom seal or there would be oil pushing out the top under compression. If it was an upper seal the compression would push the oil out. The shocks are dry on the outside, but building air volume inside the oil raising the rebound.
10-15-2012 | 05:27 PM
For how little o-ring stiction there is i can care less if i have to top off my shocks before my main. Im assuming the air is coming up past the o-rings and increasing pressure in the shocks but its not enough for me to fiddle around with o-rings quite yet. I get barely any seepage from my o-rings and they perform great on the track. I will service my shocks before my qualifiers then before my main i will take the caps off, add a little bit of fluid then bleed them like normal and set them to zero rebound. Did i mention these shocks are butter smooth?