Yes. no problem. You can use a 3 port sleeve. Blocks are the same.

AFM

Salvadori

I've been racing Sirio engines since October last year. I have 2 Evo2 one EFRA and one IFMAR and just bought a Mario Collari modified EFRA. I've tried all these pipes with them:

Novamega TPO2
Novamega TP03
Novamega TP04
Yokomo M.Mielke In-Line
Sirio S12-200006 In-line
RB Concept E1751-193402 In-Line
Mugen P01002 In-Line


Depends on the track layout, but the best allround performance is between the Novamega TP03, The M.Mielke and the Sirio pipe.
Last race I tried the Mugen pipe, and although it gave me more top end, i think i lost low end. Maybe I need to gear the car differently I'm not sure.
After doing some more research I've been told by Sirio drivers in Europe that the best pipe is Sirio's own and that I should try experimenting with header lenght, so I've decided to try again with the Sirio pipe modifying a bit the lenght of the header, because I've been told that Sirio makes spacers to adjust this lenght, and maybe this way i'll find proper tune of the pipe for my track.
Why I have concluded on this, after my conversation with friend drivers, is because Sirio engines have a mid sized conrod (like Picco engines), as oposed to short conrod that all new Nova based engines have, so stroke, beeing the same in numbers, provide different powerband outputs.
So because of that, I think almost every new pipe out there is designed for Nova based engines, and makes Sirios loose low and midrange power, delaying the transition on to top end, thus making you feel that the engine lacks top end.
Sirio engines have their powerband at a different point, which makes it need a pipe that quickly gets the power of the engine on to the pipe's tune to have a perfect low to high acceleration.
So after experimenting more with my Sirio pipe, the only other alternative would be to try Picco or Orion pipes, because their engines have similar stroke design as the Sirios.

Hope this helps you

AFM

thanks a lot alfonso!!!!!

Hi guys im llooking to get a
Sirio (#S12-TRP) 2.1CC Racing 3 Port ABC Engine
from RC mart
before i do so, what are the downsides of this engine? main thing i seem to catch up on while reading this thread is the carb tends to leak! and its made of plastic.
If i was to install a novarossi carb will the engine be harder to tune because of the carb? i wanna steer away from novarossi for awhile and stick with engines that are easier to tune.
all comments appreicated! looking to get this for race day next week! will also be giving it to someone at my track to mod it as he is a pro with sirios!

What exact model of TRP are you planning on buying??
There is the old TRP and there is the new TRP Evo 2 models, both in EFRA and IFMAR versions.
The fastest are the S12-TRP-I Evo2 (IFMAR) model.
The new Evo2 models have absolutely no problems with carbs. On the contrary beeing made of composite they are the most easy to tune and very stable carbs I've used in a long time.
The old 2 needle carbs had leaking problems, but that problem has long been corrected on the new engines with 3 needles.

AFM

Hi thanks for the reply AFM
im planning to get the old one AFM with the black head and ABC p/s design 3 port this model has also got the turbo head right?
also as you say this model has carby leaks if i put in a novarossi carb will it still be easy to tune? i want to get this as its only $139 USD from RC mart and the EVO 2 is $219 USD

on a different topic, what makes an engine easy to tune? the carb itself or the actualy engine/ Piston and sleeve design?

I would highly recomend you to get the Evo2, it's a world of difference.

At www.speedtechrc.com you can get it for $189.90. Those $50.00 are worth.

Novarossi carb will work OK.

Ease of tune is a combination of many factors, but mainly when the engine gets old and looses compression, is when it's impossible to tune well.

AFM

my supplier doesnt shop there so im stuck with RC mart. and they are at 219. the black head is like $139 :P im a budget racer plus ill be getting it modded so the power would be as close to evo 2

so when they say novarossi's are very sensitive to tune its not the actual carb, yet its the actual engine ya?

thanks for ya current feedback and time AFM

hey guys! i just got a sirio aac 5-port, the old one... i used to hate this engine just coz i dont like it... but since i cracked open my jp engine during practice yesterday, i had an hour to break-in a new engine and yes its a SIRIO. i had no problems during the break-in process 4 tanks, 2 on the bench shutting off the engine every 2mins, and the other 2 running rich at the track at half throttle. call me crazy but i did race the engine after that a 2-hour team race hehehe! i must say i never really cared about the engine during the race, but after ending up 3rd place it made me look back on my reasons for hating this engine. it is a good one! would anyone know the initial settings of the engine? and should i change the conrod after every 5 liters of 25% fuel?

This are some bulletins regarding Sirio .12 engines.....hope it helps

AFM

Bulletin #1
When tuning your Sirio carb DO NOT adjust the mid-range needle. This is set from the factory on a flow meter to help calibrate the other two needles and should not be touched unless you really have a grasp on carburetor tuning. The mid-range needle can be found underneath the high-speed needle on the end of the carb opposite the low-speed needle.

Bulletin #3
Sirio .12 (General Base Carburetor Settings)
High Speed - 5.5 turns
Low Speed - 3-1/2 (Generally this should be flush with the end of the slide)
Mid Range - Flush then one turn out.

Bulletin #6
We recommend the use of the following plugs
- Sirio .12: (standard plug) Novarossi C7S or C8S
- Sirio .12 (turbo plug) Sirio S001720127

Bulletin #7
Crank pin on a new stock .12 engine has 4.428mm.
The right play between crank pin and conrod bushing is 0,04 - 0,05 mm. if you're not able to check it, I suggest you change the conrod every 2-3 hours running.
The life of the conrod depends mainly on the fuel you use, as the lubrication and the right carburetion keeps your engine running well for long time.

Bulletin #8
This is the correct Break-In procedure for the Sirio S12 Evo2

1.- One (1) 125cc tank in the bench at WOT with very rich setting of HSN, avoiding it to go on 4 stroke.
COOL DOWN
2.- Three (3) tanks on the track at WOT on the main straight with very rich setting of HSN, as if the engine wants to die, and tuning the HSN at the end of third tank to get almost full power.
COOL DOWN AFTER EVERY TANK

thanks afm! those are really helpful stuff to be noted... how about the running temperature of the engine? on an rb it would be at 270 deg. farenheit, would 270 be okay with a sirio? Novarossi C7S or C8S plug would be a cold plug, i will try this out. we have hot weather back here in the philippines and i think having a cold plug would give the engine a better temp.

There is no fixed ideal temperature for any engine. There are many variables that affect it; Ambient temp, fuel type and nitro content, compresion ratio, altitude & barometric pressure, Pipe/manifold type and setting, clutch setting, glow-plug, gear ratio, available traction, How hard you drive, Etc. Etc.
Each engine has it’s own perfect temperature, and you must find it.
All of the following conditions MUST be met before any temperature can be considered referentially correct for any particular engine, of course assuming the engine is in good shape.

1} There must be a visible trail of smoke when accelerating from EVERY corner.
2} The idle is stable.
3} The glow plug wire stays somewhat shiny and the coil stays round [UN-DISTORTED].
4} The performance is good.
THEN you can register the temperature, and that will be the ideal temp for that particular engine.

READING YOUR PLUGS: Actually when a new plug wire just goes slightly gray after a 5 or 10 minute hard run it means your very close to an optimal horsepower tune, but be careful the next step is TOO LEAN!
1} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug wet, with like new shiny wire = rich side of optimum power 85%
2} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug starting to dry and wire starting to gray = Very close to optimum power 95%
3} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire totally gray but not distorted optimum power 100%
4} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire distorted = slightly lean DANGER!
5} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt up = extremely lean possible engine damage!

My Sirios run optimal at around 250 - 260°F, with my track conditions.

Hope I’ve answered your question . Good Luck and have fun.

AFM

sorry to be annoying if everyone knows but i dont but what are you refering to when you say "WOT" in relation to ic motors? as its all new to me lol...

eg:
it sounds weird to a n00b like me... turn on the light please!

WOT=wide open throttle

......does anybody have a spare sirio crankcase they want to get rid off?