RC10B4.1 FT/WC
10-15-2012 | 09:19 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,293
From: Henderson, NV
10-15-2012 | 09:41 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
TRCR's N/w GOLD CUP
10-15-2012 | 10:07 AM
For anyone not following the separate big bore thread, I found a way to keep the shock/link from rubbing and get the rear shock straight up and down.
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I ended up putting the C tower on the back of the hub and using a silver (long neck) ball stud on the hub instead of a black one. With the black ball stud, the ball cup was binding on the edge of the hub. Silver stud cured that. This let me remove all the lower spacers on the rear shocks and the link is nowhere near hitting the spring/shock and the shock is now straight up and down.
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I ended up putting the C tower on the back of the hub and using a silver (long neck) ball stud on the hub instead of a black one. With the black ball stud, the ball cup was binding on the edge of the hub. Silver stud cured that. This let me remove all the lower spacers on the rear shocks and the link is nowhere near hitting the spring/shock and the shock is now straight up and down.
10-15-2012 | 10:08 AM
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,758
From: Chicago, IL
10-15-2012 | 10:13 AM
lol, I dont see why anyone would choose to use pins/wheel bearings unless you have a lot of good tires already glued up. The hexes make it so convenient. not required, but definitely better than pins/wheel bearings.
10-15-2012 | 10:24 AM
I have been holding off on pulling the trigger on a shorty pack for my b4. My main issue is what would it do for the car and can I use it in my t4 and sc10. I plan to weight my car tonight to gauge what my race weight is. I know the shorter pack allows me to move the pack in a more granular manner. But with the lighter pack, would i need to add more lead to get back the weight? Or am i just looking to shed overall weight? I.E add the pack, but do not add more weight. The buggy feels a little heavy to me and not very nimble. I also wonder if I can remove lead from my car to make it more nimble. I have also read, that people tend to lighten the springs for a short. red/white losi from orange/yellow for example. I know the 17.5 guys really like to lighten the cars with the shorty, because of their lower power. I dont need to lighten for power with 13.5. I have plenty of power. I would just like it to feel more nimble. Thoughts?
I am currently running 1/2 ox next to receiver, FT ballast, 1/4oz in each rear triangle and alum rack.
I am currently running 1/2 ox next to receiver, FT ballast, 1/4oz in each rear triangle and alum rack.
10-15-2012 | 10:26 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 103
From: Sweden
I am looking at upgrading the motor of my B4.1 RTR for slightly more power. The supplied motor says 3300KV, and the manual does not indicate what "Turns" it is. I understand "Turns" and KV are loosely correlated, so does anyone knows what "Turns" the currently supplied RTR motor has?
10-15-2012 | 10:29 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
I am looking at upgrading the motor of my B4.1 RTR for slightly more power. The supplied motor says 3300KV, and the manual does not indicate what "Turns" it is. I understand "Turns" and KV are loosely correlated, so does anyone knows what "Turns" the currently supplied RTR motor has?
10-15-2012 | 10:32 AM
A reedy sonic 10.5 is 3700 kv. so not quite. A reedy sonic 13.5 is 3000kv. So it is somewhere in between. But there are 13.5 motors that are 3400kv. I would say the 3300 rtr is a powerful 13.5 or a very weak 10.5