We don't run weight up front here on the high grip tracks in SoCal. However, we run the transponder either on top or on the chassis in front of the servo.

The car has plenty of steering without adding more weight to the front. Running a Shorty pack seems to enhance the overall performance of the car.

I am running almost 3 oz in my car to get to min. Weight. 1/2 oz infront the servo, 3/4 behind, 1/4 in the bulkhead. Ft balast. 1/2 by the rx and 1/4 in each rear triangle.

Adding weight to the nose makes for less steering .
shorty's are lighter , best for stock

25c Wolf packs lighter too , great for mod

Can you explain how adding weight to the front make for less steering?

Hideeho
One thing seems to be being missed in this discussion about camber links. The entire setup is homologous. This means that what the height of the camber link changes is dependent on what the camber, toes, length of the camber link, position of camber link, etc. When you change the height of the camber link you are actually changing the roll resistance of the system, there by changing the camber gain of the wheel. What this means is that if you camber gain is above optimal raising the link on the inside will have the opposite effect from raising the inside link if your camber gain is below optimal. This is the reason people are reporting different results for making the same change.

Also the track can make a huge difference. For example I run on an indoor, small, HARD packed, rough, red clay, medium grip. I had my buggy set slightly loose for the track. I went to another track that I would describe exactly the same except it is out doors. With the exact same setup & the exact same tires I had a MASSIVE push & had to redo my complete setup.

My advice on setup is to find a base line (either one derived from espearamentin or a pro's setup for a similar track) & then make 1 change, test, then make another change. Make each change small (1 shim, .5*, 1mm, etc). Unless an adjustment makes a huge, obvious change, test for 5-10 laps to get used to it, then decide if you like it or not. Keep making small changes in the same direction on the same part until your handling gets worse, then back up a step or 2 & start making changes in another area. You may also wnt to go the other direction testing to find the limit of changes & what effect they have on handling. Also during this process make sure your tires balance. Going around of course, but I'm refering to traction. It doesn't matter if they are bald or new, just make sure the traction is balanced front to back (you don't want brand new rips & bald barcodes on a dusty track, you will end up w/ WAY more traction from one end). Also, in the process of all this driving to test setup changes, you may find you've become a better driver as well.

Please explain? I find the complete opposite. If that was the case then why would adding weight to the rear give you more traction?

I had to sell my stuff for personal reason,I still have my mt4 radio,2 promatch shorties and a lrpx12 17.5 for sale,everything has maybe 15 packs through it which the lipos maybe have 8 charges on them

200 for radio
75 for 2 lipos
45 for motor ran blinky only

I've always followed Martin Crisp's explanation of camber links:

The longer the camber link, the more deeply the roll the car will have.

The shorter the camber link, the more camber changes, but the less it will roll.

If you raise the inner pivot point of the camber link, you lower the RC

If you lower the inner pivot point of the camber link, you raise the RC

It has to do with weight transfer, and how you describe steering.

With the front weight, there is less effective weight transfer, so the car won't "cut" so hard getting in the corner. The weight will give more steering in a constant radius corner.

This is the same reason the SC10 4x4 guys are putting weight on the front. The truck is too reactive getting in the corner, and needs the extra grip center off. In the 4wd case, it's because the front needs more grip when you get on the power, but the same principals apply.

extra weight on the back by the transmission will help the car rotate around the corners faster ..


put a couple oz's of ballast on the nose & test for your self

Adding weight on the nose does make for less steering , but will add a little on power steering & help prevent the nose from coming up or wheelie...


conclusion

more weight on the nose steers less where you need steering , and steers more where you need less steering ...
Hope that makes sense ...

3 oz to GET to minimum? What does your car weigh with no weight?

I have and i run plenty of weight in the front of ky car. Look a few post up. If it causes.the.car to turn more on exit then it is still "creating steering" just at a different part of the turn. I this maybe you should have used less agressive in your statement based on you explination.

I just put the big boreson so everything has changed. I will have to weigh everything again. I also added a lopro servo. Going to try putting everything down the center line.

That's nothing. Wait till George starts describing roll center changes because they cause bind, like you find when you start bending cardboard boxes.

Hope to get new bb shocks today. What else do I need?
Plastic rtr bushings I hear. Anything else? Studs?