Installed and ran the BB's this weekend. Went the extra mile and completely ground down both towers. Guys you should at least grind the rear tower down. This way your shocks will be straight up and down...springs will NOT rub the bodies, or the little blue cartridge caps. The shocks did NOT leak either. I did use a 1mm blue spacer with the bottom rear eyelets to keep the springs off of the tie rods too. Man they are smooth as silk !

What all do I need for a VTS slipper setup on the b4.1?

Also, the height on the a and the b hub towers is the same, correct?

Check your hinge pin also..it could be bent..

The VTS sits inside the octagonal cutout on the spur gear, so you shouldn't need anything other than the unit itself.

The A and B hubs are the same height. The holes on the B are in between the holes on the A (or vice versa).

Come on now if you know me I have ran 2wd SCT since my first race and it's very similar when it comes to throttle control also have won a trophy in every big race I entered this year with it so I realize that but I expected a little more grip from the buggy than there is thats all. I have never messed with the 12mm springs so thats really what I would like to know about should I use same rates as I use with 10mm AE springs or go softer/stiffer with the Losi 12mm BB springs? I have Bowtie m4 rears on the way now and I have the new 2wd front Holeshots on the buggy now and steering is great and maybe it's just not heavy enough to plant those Caliber top pins in the clay. Diff came pretty smooth but felt like 2000wt gear diff so I tightened it just a little so I probably should have left it alone but I have watched that video a couple times and waiting on rebuild stuff to do my own build. Thanks!

thats happend to me, i clean my hinge pin and sometimes took some scotch bright to it to freshen it up but i suggest lunsford ones, they wear a lot longer from what I experienced.

even check the hinge pin brace if its binding the arms....that also has happened to me even when i just bottomed out the 2 screws, if so add a small spacer.

What part of the rear tower are you guys shaving? I ran mine without then shaved and they didn't hit.

The back of the tower...under and around the inside upper mount hole. My buddy spaced his out, and after 1 race day the back of his shock bodies and the blue caps were scratched up some. I did no cap spacing, just tower grinding, and mine did not scrape anything...thankfully.

Hey thanks for the reply! I think the pins are a little big on Calibers for the 2wd buggy so your probably right but had decent luck on my SC10 FT with them. The buggy was ran and built by Zach Genova who is a good guy to deal with anyway the diff was pretty smooth but really easy to rotate wheels opposite like 1000wt diff oil almost so I tighten it about a 1/4 turn still felt smooth but tighter which all setups I see say tight diff. I ran it for a pack then checked it again and it was a good bit lumpy feeling so I backed it off like it was and better again so I will leave it like that until my rebuild stuff comes. I am getting some DD's soon and thanks for you help!

No it doesn't, it shows the short ASC3983 .300 stud. When some one says long stud, it is the actual height of the flange to the top of the ball, not the thread length.

Yes If it says Black then make sure you use a black ball stud as they are different height of the ball part than the silver regardless of if it says long or short etc as that is referring to the thread length which is also the .300 or .400 etc (thread length)

Bah, slow fingers!

Long and short refers to the neck of the ball stud only, not the thread length.

I have been put together my new worlds kit and got to the shocks and realized I have three back and one front shock body what do I do thanks in advanced

Contact AE's support people via e-mail or phone. They'll get the parts out to you ASAP. It happens pretty frequently, and it sucks, but they'll make it right.