correct and what I posted to do for a stronger tower ...

factory drivers are use the short bushing

Oh...I guess I don't remember ever saying to use the short shock bushing, but glad you got it sorted.

I have yet to have even the slightest issue with this setup.

Funny i mentioned this about 2 weeks ago how the front tower will become weaker..and people harped on me about it...

O well looks like you found a fix for it for now...

I'll stick to my K shocks ...

Shaving it is only bad if you crash a lot

Getting back into 2wd after running 1/8e all summer. Just bought a b4wc kit and gonna start out w chad dues setup as thats what most local guys ate running here indoors. Seems shorty packs are the norm too. Do i wanna mount my esc behind the shorty pack or just on the lt side like normal? Hope to have it all ready to go for next weekend.

Why I recommended a stronger set-up to you guys as most will crash occasionally.....

new to AE b4.1 buggy, what is the +8mm chassis, and what about the b44 rear arms and rear u-brace shaved. Can some one tell me about this stuff? thanks

+8mm chassis is just that a chassis that is 8mm longer than the old b4. B44 arms are arms that were included with the b44 (4x4 version) that are a bit stiffer.

Shaved U brace just knocks off the raised area where the rear camber links attach to to change the roll center and camber gain

Thanks, so then the worlds b4.1 already has that chassis then? I thought I heard some guys saying they where running a T4 truck chassis.

I'm confused about the whole shaved u-brace thing. If you lower the inner point by shaving the brace and then lower the outer by using the C tower, you're just lowering the link completely. Wouldn't the roll center be the same?

I thought roll center is related to putting an angle on the camber link, meaning you move one side or the other, higher or lower.

I thought the b44 arms are a soft plastic causing them them to provide better rear traction.

no..b4.1 is the softest..b44 are stiffer..and carbon is the stiffest

OK thanks for clearing that up

No, that is incorrect. The roll center is determined by extending an imaginary line from the upper camber link and the lower control arm (if you draw a line through the hinge pins) until the two intersect. This is called your instant center (IC) and is the imaginary point in which the wheel, camber link and arm rotate about. Then drawing a line from the center of the tires contact patch to the instant center, and doing this for both sides of the car and the point in which the these two lines intersect is your roll center.

When you lower the upper camber link it is essentially like drawing another parallel line under the original location and as a result the IC changes since the lines intersect sooner and thus the line from the tires contact patch is even steeper and therefore actually raises the RC slightly.

One thing to keep in mind is that this only determines the 'static' roll center, but when the chassis rolls through a turn the roll center migrates around and how much it moves is influenced by the suspension geometry.

Heres an image that I just googled that should hopefully help illustrate what I said:

Lowering the whole link lowers the roll center.