Hey,

Has anyone had any problems pulling the rod from the ball link off the steering servo to Steering rack, after gluing the servo saver, or using an Avid rack.

I'm looking for something stronger to replace this part;

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ink-B2-3-T3-T4

I was having trouble with a lack of steering until I replaced the servo saver with another one then glued it it to make sure..

Now with the slightest touch into a pipe, pop and there go's my steering.

Any advice would be appreciated.. (And yes I know that I shouldn't crash in the first place!)

Also, I run the avid rack on my B4 without an issue....

You probably need to replace the ball cups. A new set wil be much tighter

It wasn't the ball joint popping, it was the threaded rod pulling out of the ball cup.. I'm about to order some new ones anyway as the ones I have are pretty old.

I wrecked 2 of them in about 10 mins of track time and was shocked that they didn't pop before the rod pulled out.

put a drop of CA on the threads and put the ends on.

step 1 put a drop of ca on the end of the rod WITHOUT the hex, then screw the rod into the cup.
step 2 put a drop on the other side and put the end on and tighten until 2mm gap.

I had to do the same thing in my sc10.

I was wondering what type of connectors you use to hook your motor to your esc? I could solder the ends of the wire directly to the motor but that would not allow me to easily remove the motor. If it is just standard wire connectors or maybe there is better technology out there. Also was wondering what the best battery to esc connectors are. My gens ace has banana connectors, have there been any issues with these? I do not have a local hobby shop to run to so I have to ask questions here...thank you for all of you help. I have a novak havok pro esc with a 8.5 turn ballistic motor.

solder the wires to the motor. and take your soldering iron to the track, it takes only a minute to resolder the wires on. If you absolute refuse to solder, use sold 4mm connectors, not the bird cage crap. I say this because a hard crash can make the connectors separate and the solid connectors are more securely connected.

I prefer Deans connectors for battery to ESC connections. From motor to ESC, I only direct solder. Some use 4mm bullet connectors, but you have to make darn sure you have them covered well in heat shrink so they don't short while racing.

+1 to deans and +1 to not shorting out the esc. You should not be constantly swapping out motors, just solder it in. heck, we used to solder the batteries in the cars.

Do any of you have a Big Bore set up for the T4? If not ill just copy my B4 set up

My BB came in today. I'm planning on using the same #piston and my same springs I got now.

I use the RPM ball cups cut down to the proper length with my avid rack. My truck isn't intimate with the pipes, but it's no stranger either, and I've never had a problem.

my big bores are on the way

Thanks everyone for the advice, I think I'll go with the rpm cups and glue them as well.

We have our state titles in a few weeks and I'm hoping my truck will be on the pace.

Thanks again.

David

I also use cut down rpm cups. I used slightly used ones because I found brand new ones tend to bind a little. So you may just want to check the full range of movement by popping on one end at a time and checking because the resistance of the servo will make hard to tell if it's binding once they are both on. The rpm cups coupled with avid rack make a huge difference.

Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try when I go out to test on Sunday.

Just gluing the servo saver made a massive difference to my Truck... Soooo much more steering and now it turns the same amount, left and right.

The servo saver cost me big time last weekend with a third in the final, which could of been better..