I just switched from the Tekin RS ESC in my 1/12th to the Viper VTX1. Both are great ESCs but the VTX1 is smoother on the throttle and doesn't need a voltage booster for the receiver. Even though the specs say differently they are both identical in size. I put mine back to back to check. The aluminum heat sink case is really nice but is also the ESCs only real drawback...the weight. The next closest in small size that does not need a voltage booster or RX pack is the LRP SXX. The Hobbywing and Speed Passion ESCs also work well but are pretty big.

What gage wire are most of you using in mod? I have 14 ga and it seems to be tweeking the pod, any help would be great. Thanks

I run 13ga but cut and route my wires in such a way that theres is slack both front to back and side to side.

Hi guys, ran my new Corally chassis for the first time last night at our local club here in the UK. You can run the LiPo either down the length or across the back of the chassis, plus it accepts CRC or AE type front end plus the 'beam' front end that was very popular a few years ago. As I had it last night (in the pic), it had so much steering it was crazy! It seems that running the LiPo down the length of the chassis requires the rear end to be set softer than when running across the back, so have now softened the whole rear end up and will try it again at the next meeting. Either way, I think it is always better tho start with too much steering and then get rid of some, rather than not have enough and try to find more!! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask! Cheers, Chris.

That steering and the front arms/suspension is very interesting to say the least. How sturdy does the linkage feel?

Why did you choose the Corally front end and not fit an AE or CRC?

The 'centre-point steering' goes right back to the original Corally chassis in 1986. It's a good idea that works well and have never had a problem with it. There is a small amount of play built into the hoops that go around the screw in the servo saver. This is intentional to make the car less 'nervous'. The Beam front end first came out on the SP12G, and the factory just want to try it out with a leightweight LiPo to see how it goes. I will leave it as it is for now (I like the beam front end very much) but will try it out with a AE front end sometime soon. Cheers, Chris.

So did it come with that style front end in the box as an option?

I was just going to say that the front end is from the old SP12G. I had that car back in the day. It was a great car.

Not too sure what the final production car will have to be honest. The factory is sending out prototypes to get feedback from the team drivers and will then make their decision. The beam front end has been tweaked over the years however, the way it works in principle is the same. How's everything at BMI mate?!

I had to put my BMI car stuff on hold for a bit to catch up on the work that I missed when My son was born. I fell really far behind with my customers and need to keep them happy. I was with my son for close to 3 months in the NICU and really didnt make it into the shop often. I couldnt leave his side. He has been home for a few months now but I havent caught back up yet. About all I have been able to do is release a line of batteries as it doesnt slow down my production at the shop.

I wish I had the chance to release my new 1/12th before this all happened. It was so close. Now I am going to have to wait a bit.

For those of you who balance the pod and chassis separately, would you mind sharing your technique? I wanted to see the difference in weight placement between the way I usually do it (whole car, using holes at very nose and tail of entirely race ready car) versus balancing them separate, but without a hole at the back of the chassis and the front of the pod I couldn't picture a reliable method. Thanks!

There is no real reason to try and balance the pod as its not floating or moving side to side; as long as you keep the rear tires the same size it will be level and will not induce a tweak. As for the main chassis use the center pivot hole as the balance point.

Just assemble the car, take off your dampener tubes or side shock, and read the weight on the front and back. I use four scales so i have one for each wheel, six bucks each at Harbor Freight, and if I'm within a few grams at rest I don't worry about it.