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Old 09-07-2012 | 12:01 PM
  #20011  
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
You know I never thought of that but it makes perfect sense. I can't remember how many times I've change out my front rims at home or the track and had a bearing or two get away from me only to go rolling all over the place and me chasing after it. Not a good sight for a big guy to be crawling on the ground looking under pit tables lol.....
i think there is a lil bit of added weight to converting to hex in the front also ..i think i talked with someone about that ..i will actually like a tad more weight up there.hey i got another dumb question,,after installing is all the width the same up front? i may have mis understood but a buddy runnin sc10 that converted to hex recently was sayin it widened it a bit,??
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Old 09-07-2012 | 12:05 PM
  #20012  
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Originally Posted by B.A. Racer
why use locktite? when the nut even feels just a little loose..replace it...or just buy serrated.
Security blanket, especially on the 4wd buggy. The 2wd isn't powered and shouldn't come off as easy, so you probably need less applications of loctite...

And yeah, at $0.023 a nut, you could just toss them.

I don't run serrated because they rip up the wheel.
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Old 09-07-2012 | 12:12 PM
  #20013  
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Originally Posted by rb-digi
i think there is a lil bit of added weight to converting to hex in the front also ..i think i talked with someone about that ..i will actually like a tad more weight up there.hey i got another dumb question,,after installing is all the width the same up front? i may have mis understood but a buddy runnin sc10 that converted to hex recently was sayin it widened it a bit,??
I'm not sure but I doubt it would be by much, I agree that there is probably a slight weight increase as well but I didn't really notice it........
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Old 09-07-2012 | 12:14 PM
  #20014  
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Originally Posted by B.A. Racer
why use locktite? when the nut even feels just a little loose..replace it...or just buy serrated.
you cant use serrated on all wheels. I dont believe they work on DE rims for instance. And I have never had a nylon lock not come off.
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Old 09-07-2012 | 12:18 PM
  #20015  
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+1 to losing bearing during wheel changes or tire cleaning. plus my kid helps me clean tires and she can swap out wheels with hex, she has issues with pins and bearings. And.... I use one wrench for front and rear.
But probably no performance increase and I only had 1 set of fronts, so not big deal on the costs. Plus, I waiting till all my rear tires were bald before changing over.
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Old 09-07-2012 | 12:24 PM
  #20016  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
you cant use serrated on all wheels. I dont believe they work on DE rims for instance. And I have never had a nylon lock not come off.
well you have some good locknuts then cuz i have to replace mine every couple weeks to reassure they wont loosen. Not a bad thing, just keep an eye on them
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Old 09-07-2012 | 12:58 PM
  #20017  
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Originally Posted by Atomicsickness
Bearings are not retained in the rim is the biggest advantage for me. I hat having to pop the bearings out of the rim every time I take them off.
+1 about the bearings. They are a nuisance to change. I'm still running bearing front wheels but I'll probably convert it to hex next time I need some new front wheels and tires.
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Old 09-07-2012 | 01:10 PM
  #20018  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
you cant use serrated on all wheels. I dont believe they work on DE rims for instance. And I have never had a nylon lock not come off.
i actually lost my front wheel 2 days in a row on my sc104x4. new locknut was installed on the second day too! i swear i cranked em down both times too. so a little locktigh ton there. no probs since. but it does happen.

i think it was that damn gobblin in the pit area again, always messing with people!
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Old 09-07-2012 | 01:14 PM
  #20019  
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dude, the lock nuts on the sc10 4x4 are tiny. lol. that big wheel flexing around is probably hard on them, get flanged for sc for sure. But mine have not fallen off yet, so I blame user error, lol.
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Old 09-07-2012 | 03:10 PM
  #20020  
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Originally Posted by rb-digi
i got a dumb question..when converting to hex's on the front end of the b4.1 and using clamping style hexs (avid in my case) is there any reason to run a roll pin thru the axle? like there is no drive to make them slip and it seems to be attached well with out it..i didnt see any mention of them in the required parts list for conversion..thnks in advance..oh and is there any options when it comes to a low profile front axle nut.all new tires and hexs ready to go and none of my lhs's have the associated ASC9880,,any thing else or another brands nut work dialed?
the dubro ones at OCRC are the best wheel nuts you can get for a converted team AE. IMO
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Old 09-07-2012 | 05:57 PM
  #20021  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Having watched a factory driver just get his BB's yesterday and building and mounting them I can tell you this much. The front shock tower gets hit by the adjustment collar, only solution is to space it out 2mm and use longer mounting screws for the top of the aluminum cap. The back is a mess. He basically had to remove so much material to be able to use the inner hole on the tower that it is now a very weak point. At around $60.00 per set, your going to have to do mods to the car that will weaken it. One thing about them is this, They are very very smooth, as smooth if not more then the Kyosho big bores. A new rear tower was mentioned but there is no date of release. From what he said a press release should go out next week with availablility of the BB shocks the week after. I will wait on them until they fix the problems with the towers. My Kyosho/Avid BB spring mod is working just fine. Plus I have a working setup for them.
Yo Copeland do you know if Hartson has already had these new shock towers all this time ? When I've looked at his car at OC_RC, it looked like the towers were fine (granted I was looking at the shocks & springs far closer than the towers).

These pics of Maifield & Denny's cars from the Hotrod Shootout don't look like mangled shock towers either

Jesse H.

http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content...ifield-2wd.jpg
http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content.../07/Denney.jpg
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Old 09-07-2012 | 06:52 PM
  #20022  
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Originally Posted by rigor
Yo Copeland do you know if Hartson has already had these new shock towers all this time ? When I've looked at his car at OC_RC, it looked like the towers were fine (granted I was looking at the shocks & springs far closer than the towers).

These pics of Maifield & Denny's cars from the Hotrod Shootout don't look like mangled shock towers either

Jesse H.

http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content...ifield-2wd.jpg
http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content.../07/Denney.jpg
Hideeho
I wouldn't call it mangled, but both of them have cut outs on the front tower. Can't tell on the rear because of the angle.

I wonder if they ever tried spacing the tower away from the bulkhead (forwards with shims) & the shock away from the tower (backwards again with shims)? It looks like they are trimming 2mm or so. Would shimming by 2mm induce that much more flex? Would that be all that bad, or would it weaken the entire structure?
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Old 09-07-2012 | 07:15 PM
  #20023  
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Originally Posted by rigor
Yo Copeland do you know if Hartson has already had these new shock towers all this time ? When I've looked at his car at OC_RC, it looked like the towers were fine (granted I was looking at the shocks & springs far closer than the towers).

These pics of Maifield & Denny's cars from the Hotrod Shootout don't look like mangled shock towers either

Jesse H.

http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content...ifield-2wd.jpg
http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content.../07/Denney.jpg
Looks cut pretty good to me.

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Old 09-07-2012 | 08:07 PM
  #20024  
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No shaving needed...
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4.1 FT/WC-no-shaving-needed.jpg  
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Old 09-07-2012 | 08:09 PM
  #20025  
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Hey blister a couple questions for ya about BB:

Are the shaft size the same as the v2s?
Happen to know a price?
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