Must have. I ordered 200ea 6 months ago and I think it was $15 to my door. Only used maybe 40 so far lol.

I was watching a youtube video by Squirrel and he recommended replacing dog bones with CVDs but didn't explain exactly why. He also recommended replacing the stock transmission bearings with teflon ones.

Anyone done this and what are your thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

In case the drive shaft pops out. If you have dog bones you'll more than likely lose them, with CVDs you won't. As far as I know, there are really no huge performance reasons, other than having a direct connection with the drive haft to the axle and having play like with dog bones.

I need some help with gearing. I run on a indoor high bite clay track and its a decent size. I'm running a 8.5 LRP motor with a tekin RS. My current gearing is off the hook in a bad way.

I would like good torque with decent speed to make up time on the straight away.

What are my options with the following spurs?

75T
76T
81T
84T

Thank you in advance!

Bro go to the search engine on here and type in 8.5 gearing in this thread and that can point u n the right direction bro, good luck

Anyone else have problems with there not being enough room between the servo and the servo saver? When everything is assembled, the ball cup attached to the upper servo saver arm hits the top of the servo case when turning the front wheels. I was thinking about adding a washer under the silver ball end so that there is more room. Would this affect anything?

I'm having a weird noise coming when adjusting my slipper clutch. I have a gear diff and I'm trying to get the front to lift by tightning the clutch. Weird thing is, I can't get the front to lift instead I get a sound as if my sensor cable was disconnected. I've tightned the clutch all the way and still no rise. Truck drives great but I may be missing out on more power by not properly being able to get the the clutch setup properly. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

1st see if you can run no shims or thiner shim between the servo and servo mounts , as this will move the sevo slightly back and then it should not rub.

Mine is close but just does not rub.

I just got the factory team shocks with the bleeder screw in the shock caps. It seems like a good idea but a shitty design with plastic caps. Does anybody have any issues with shock oil coming out of the bleeder screw because you can only tighten the screw so much before they strip and then they will leak. I havent even run the car yet and the one shock cap is leaking from the screw, any thoughts or is this normal. I see that the Losi shock have the bleeder hole but no screw. What is the purpose of the screw in the associated design.

I have a ball diff and saw the video on youtube where you make the front end rise and that says that your slipper is set perfectly but........ if you notice that guy is using a buggy which is very light when you try to use a short course truck it wont work because its too heavy. The guy in the video says it will work on any vehicle but it think that is more geared towards buggys. Just my experience

I went to change from dog bones to universals from integy and I blew out 2 bearing and the universals kept popping out. When they are installed they dog bone part of the universal sits just barely into the driveshaft. Anybody else have this issue.

you dont need to tighten them down, its a tiny screw going into plastic, dont torque them down. Just tighten them slowly until you feel them begin to snug up and then stop. I have never had an issue with oil coming out of the screw hole. the purpose of them is to get a more consistent build on the shock.

the majority of the parts from integy are not very good quality. They probably are not the correct length. You should check out the CVA's from Associated or CVD's from MIP.

how often do u bleed the shocks meaning take the screw out of the cap

+1 to both of Matt Trimmings replies. As far as the setting of the slipper goes, I have found the same thing you have. Doesn't really matter how much motor I have, I can't get the front tires to come off the ground with an SC10. They do start to get real light though. I think that is what you are looking for in this case. Or you can just set it on the track. Its probably the best method anyway. Set it so it slips just a titch on the track and that you can clear the jumps you need to.