Hi guys
Can any body tell me what the difference between the Mugen mbx6r and the mbx6 j spec ?
Thanks

Thank You

Can anyone help out? Back in page 867 post#12998 a picture of an aluminum center diff mount was posted. I've send a pm to rave1010hk but got no reply.Does anyone know where one can buy one? I know most all of you will say it's not needed, but I rebuild my car at least once a month and I'm tired of stripped plastics. Any help on how to resolve my problem or any link to aluminum center diff mounts will be GREATLY!! appreciated.
Diamantis.

After looking over and over, this is about the only one I could find.

http://kmrcshop.com/products/KMBX6%2...-Anodized.html

I personally wouldn't recommend buying one, I think you'll waste your money. Where are you having problems stripping the plastics? I haven't had any problems occur while taking mine out? Are you taking it apart from the bottom or top?

I could be terribly mistaken, but I believe the "Mbx6 J Spec" is the japan factory kit that came out approximately a year ago. The 6r is obviously the newer version, this link has more about the Japan Factory kit and some of the upgrades they did to the Mbx6.

http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ...n_Factory_Kit/

I know you want the al center but if you get another plastic one, don't over tighten the top screws. Snug them down only. They don't get a lot of forces acting against them (which is why the al is way over kill) while in use so there is no need for much torque on these. Even a little less than snug is ok. I have stripped these before and ran them stripped till I could get a replacement. I never had a stripped one back out so a slightly snug one won't back out. I am assuming you are talking about the four screws on the top, not the bottom.

Anyone using this chassis can share their working setup? Thanks in advance

Any one got a link to taylor peterson's setup sheet?

it is posted @ racemugen.com

http://www.racemugen.com/tp2012nationalsbuggysetup.pdf

Need help on my easily fish tail mugen

Current setting
Diff: 5 7 5
Rear toe: 3 deg
Shock mount: middle position for front and rear at tower and outer most position at lower
Caster: neutral
Ackerman : 1st hole (nearer to front bulkhead)
Servo: rsx respond for throttle and torque for steering
Tx: Eurus

I had tried diff setting at 7 7 7, it feels better but still it has the fish tail feel, when it compares to other mugen that are running 5 7 3, 7 7 3 or 7 5 3.

Copied their setting and tried, still have the same feel. I even set my sterring speed slower, and loosen my servo saver.....

Appreciate inputs

But there are so many other factors that come into play which you do not let us know.
I myself run 7-7-5 oils, so you're not doing anything very wrong here.

My front shocks are innermost front, and "middle'ish" at rear.
Lower arms always use outside mount.

BUT! Then there's the matter of:
rear hub carriers, lower mount, is it in lower or upper hole?
rear upper arm links, are they mounted inside, middle or outside on the hub carrier?
To decrease fishtailing, use lower hole hub carrier mount, myself I use the middle mount on the upper arm link/hub carrier. Then move the upper arm link down to the lower hole on the shock tower.

Then there's your ride height. If you are high-riding you will get fishtailing, that's just how it goes. You should try to have the arms sort of level with the chassis, horizontal.
Then the downstop thing, a good rule of thumb is three fingers under chassis both front and rear is a good limit for it.

Where is your battery pack installed?

Tires and track conditions?

I am using the old tray...

Tested on all tracks, feel the same.