Mugen MBX6
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 411
http://www.racemugen.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=89
Silvers are not progressive IIRC. The coils are equal wound and constant guage wire.
http://www.racemugen.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=89
Silvers are not progressive IIRC. The coils are equal wound and constant guage wire.
Silvers are not progressive IIRC. The coils are equal wound and constant guage wire.
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,410
From: Central Florida
Technically, they should not be progressive. Like stated, they are not wound like a progressive spring. However, heat treatment could change the spring rates in different parts of the wind. But, this increases cost and I highly doubt that is the case. So, I'm 99% certain that they are not progressive. Every now and again in R/C things get labeled weird. Like "emulsion" shock caps. It makes no sense.
Got a question for you guys. I've been running the losi this summer and the two years before that I ran associated. I have been told that I'm too aggressive for these two buggies and that I might want to look into Mugen. Now my question is is this buggy for throttle happy folks? I've been called point and shoot. Not sure if I should be bothered by that but I'm not. And also how is this thing to work on? The RC8B was a breeze to work on and I think that the Losi is kind of a hassle.
Tech Adept
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 108
From: New Zealand
i found a few ways you can level the car in the air-
-accellerating hard off jumps, but i some cases adds too much speed for next obstacle.
-Heavier from springs, works well , but you loose steering
-raising the rear hub/ arm pin to highest location. This requires you to reduce spring preload to obtain the same ride height, reducing the preload has a positive effect as the spring rebounds slower , hense rear kicks less.
The second reason raisng the hub works is it increases droop or up travel, essentially increases the distance of your chassis to the ground, more travel sucks up the jump more.
Theres no doubt other ways too, but the nub change is easy and has little effect on the rest of the cars set up.
Will
Tech Addict
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 608
please try:
black springs all around. front 9.75, rear 11.00
front 500, rear 400, mugen shock oil
shocks outside arms, inside tower
diffs, 10 - 10 - 5
rest set-up: stock
car is unreal stable & supereasy to drive fast & hard. NO REAR is KICKED UP!
and for me it has still tons of steering, lap times are very good on a tight, technical track.
black springs all around. front 9.75, rear 11.00
front 500, rear 400, mugen shock oil
shocks outside arms, inside tower
diffs, 10 - 10 - 5
rest set-up: stock
car is unreal stable & supereasy to drive fast & hard. NO REAR is KICKED UP!
and for me it has still tons of steering, lap times are very good on a tight, technical track.
If the back end of your car is being kicked up when jumping, it's because your ride height is too low. Try raising it gradually (same front and rear obviously), you should be able to find a setting that cures this issue, without going up too high.
Europe team members never go below 25 front / 27 rear, it's a good starting point.
Europe team members never go below 25 front / 27 rear, it's a good starting point.
If the back end of your car is being kicked up when jumping, it's because your ride height is too low. Try raising it gradually (same front and rear obviously), you should be able to find a setting that cures this issue, without going up too high.
Europe team members never go below 25 front / 27 rear, it's a good starting point.
Europe team members never go below 25 front / 27 rear, it's a good starting point.
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 120
From: CA.
hello
hope someone could help me out, i just got the bce chassi and i am building the rear end and noticed that the rear toe insert (the new one from mugen)
is not flush with the chassi. The center bar on the toe plate is no fitting flush, its actually is higher than the chassi. I hope this makes sense, but my question is would this cause any problems as far as the set up.
thanks
john
hope someone could help me out, i just got the bce chassi and i am building the rear end and noticed that the rear toe insert (the new one from mugen)
is not flush with the chassi. The center bar on the toe plate is no fitting flush, its actually is higher than the chassi. I hope this makes sense, but my question is would this cause any problems as far as the set up.
thanks
john
hello
hope someone could help me out, i just got the bce chassi and i am building the rear end and noticed that the rear toe insert (the new one from mugen)
is not flush with the chassi. The center bar on the toe plate is no fitting flush, its actually is higher than the chassi. I hope this makes sense, but my question is would this cause any problems as far as the set up.
thanks
john
hope someone could help me out, i just got the bce chassi and i am building the rear end and noticed that the rear toe insert (the new one from mugen)
is not flush with the chassi. The center bar on the toe plate is no fitting flush, its actually is higher than the chassi. I hope this makes sense, but my question is would this cause any problems as far as the set up.
thanks
john



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