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Old 08-23-2012 | 05:18 AM
  #17476  
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Originally Posted by hyper9boy
What is a heavier spring
Black
86/ 10.75.

Or 86/ 8.25 silver progressive

Both are rears ?????????

Hope u can help

http://www.racemugen.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=89

Silvers are not progressive IIRC. The coils are equal wound and constant guage wire.
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Old 08-23-2012 | 08:01 AM
  #17477  
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Originally Posted by Chris-s
http://www.racemugen.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=89

Silvers are not progressive IIRC. The coils are equal wound and constant guage wire.
The silver are progressive
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Old 08-23-2012 | 09:13 AM
  #17478  
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Technically, they should not be progressive. Like stated, they are not wound like a progressive spring. However, heat treatment could change the spring rates in different parts of the wind. But, this increases cost and I highly doubt that is the case. So, I'm 99% certain that they are not progressive. Every now and again in R/C things get labeled weird. Like "emulsion" shock caps. It makes no sense.
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Old 08-23-2012 | 09:14 AM
  #17479  
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Originally Posted by hyperfuxx
Got a question for you guys. I've been running the losi this summer and the two years before that I ran associated. I have been told that I'm too aggressive for these two buggies and that I might want to look into Mugen. Now my question is is this buggy for throttle happy folks? I've been called point and shoot. Not sure if I should be bothered by that but I'm not. And also how is this thing to work on? The RC8B was a breeze to work on and I think that the Losi is kind of a hassle.
I've drove the Losi and I drove people's Agama's as well. I have also drove an electric Associated, but there is a difference in those. As far as the Losi, I felt like you had to really be a smooth driver. Also, the older Losi I had didn't jump nearly as smooth as the Mugen. Now with the 6r and the new damper springs it's even better. The problem the Agama's and Losi's both have is the rear ends seem to be a lot more "loose". I know with the Agama it is a big factor trying to tighten that rear end up. One big problem I had with my Losi was actually on power steering. It could be the way I had my car set up, but I would roll multiple times during a race. The Mugen is just very consistent with correcting itself, and the stock set up is a great start for any new mugen driver.
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Old 08-23-2012 | 05:51 PM
  #17480  
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Probably been asked a few times, but difference between the 6R and 6R US is silver carbon parts, and that's it?
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Old 08-23-2012 | 05:53 PM
  #17481  
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I believe the other upgrade is the aluminum stub axles and center drive cup and i beleive thats it.
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Old 08-23-2012 | 06:47 PM
  #17482  
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Originally Posted by kman16jr
I believe the other upgrade is the aluminum stub axles and center drive cup and i beleive thats it.


yes ....: Lol:
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Old 08-23-2012 | 06:54 PM
  #17483  
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you also get aluminum steering posts, 1mm and 2mm wider wheel hexes.
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Old 08-23-2012 | 06:55 PM
  #17484  
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Originally Posted by o.s. power
you also get aluminum steering posts, 1mm and 2mm wider wheel hexes.
There we go i knew i was forgetting something
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Old 08-24-2012 | 01:52 AM
  #17485  
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Default Buggy nosing down off jumps

Originally Posted by ww29
question i just bought mbx6 and it noses down on landing. what can i do to keep nose up without on power in air. without changing setup it has m-spec setup on it now
Hi, i had a similar issue at a track which had steep sharps jumps that kicked the rear up
i found a few ways you can level the car in the air-

-accellerating hard off jumps, but i some cases adds too much speed for next obstacle.

-Heavier from springs, works well , but you loose steering

-raising the rear hub/ arm pin to highest location. This requires you to reduce spring preload to obtain the same ride height, reducing the preload has a positive effect as the spring rebounds slower , hense rear kicks less.
The second reason raisng the hub works is it increases droop or up travel, essentially increases the distance of your chassis to the ground, more travel sucks up the jump more.

Theres no doubt other ways too, but the nub change is easy and has little effect on the rest of the cars set up.

Will
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Old 08-24-2012 | 02:24 AM
  #17486  
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please try:

black springs all around. front 9.75, rear 11.00
front 500, rear 400, mugen shock oil
shocks outside arms, inside tower
diffs, 10 - 10 - 5
rest set-up: stock

car is unreal stable & supereasy to drive fast & hard. NO REAR is KICKED UP!
and for me it has still tons of steering, lap times are very good on a tight, technical track.
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Old 08-24-2012 | 07:24 AM
  #17487  
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If the back end of your car is being kicked up when jumping, it's because your ride height is too low. Try raising it gradually (same front and rear obviously), you should be able to find a setting that cures this issue, without going up too high.

Europe team members never go below 25 front / 27 rear, it's a good starting point.
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Old 08-24-2012 | 07:38 AM
  #17488  
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Originally Posted by TRF415boy
If the back end of your car is being kicked up when jumping, it's because your ride height is too low. Try raising it gradually (same front and rear obviously), you should be able to find a setting that cures this issue, without going up too high.

Europe team members never go below 25 front / 27 rear, it's a good starting point.
I would have to agree. Check your ride height first. Sometimes when you rebuild your shocks you still need to check it after every race or so. I was having the same problem a couple of weeks ago on a jump in an indoor track. Check racemugen for some of the set ups and find one similar to yours and adjust the ride height accordingly. If problems still exist, you could then try different oil and springs. Also, just make sure to check ride height on a flat surface as well as a level surface. To make sure you're getting a good reading. We've all made that mistake before!
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Old 08-24-2012 | 02:40 PM
  #17489  
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Default rear toe block?

hello

hope someone could help me out, i just got the bce chassi and i am building the rear end and noticed that the rear toe insert (the new one from mugen)
is not flush with the chassi. The center bar on the toe plate is no fitting flush, its actually is higher than the chassi. I hope this makes sense, but my question is would this cause any problems as far as the set up.

thanks
john
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Old 08-24-2012 | 07:36 PM
  #17490  
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Originally Posted by JHN1
hello

hope someone could help me out, i just got the bce chassi and i am building the rear end and noticed that the rear toe insert (the new one from mugen)
is not flush with the chassi. The center bar on the toe plate is no fitting flush, its actually is higher than the chassi. I hope this makes sense, but my question is would this cause any problems as far as the set up.

thanks
john
That is perfectly fine, doesn't effect anything, you will like the chassis
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