Jeff,
What gearing are using with the 4600 and why did you go back to stock with your shocks?

Thanks

I was wondering about the shocks as well Jeff, thanks for the weight, your still above my weight, doing a build now with a 3mm alloy chassis and looking about 6.200ish, hopping the low weight will be a winner, there's a pic a few pages back.

I just got the MIP bypass shock set, yet to build them.

I run on bigger tracks so 14 tooth pinion and v2 center diff which I believe is 60 tooth.

two ways felt too squishy, couldn't get enough pack out of them, didn't like the way they bottomed out, and my truck felt like a boat. the rebound is great on them. . with the stock pistons it feels more solid and just by some quick initial testing I felt it handled better and the suspension will feel tighter. I'm gonna need it cause I'm going against some quick dudes, one being a durango.

Keep in mind I have the Exotek chassis. Personally I like the weight.

I'm sure you make them run plenty good as a regular Factory Team truck especially if you run indoor.


let me know how the mip works out, there Losi truck was awesome!

are you the one doing the home made bottom chassis plate ?

iam moveing to a 22sc kit and still have a sc 10 4x4 to play with

Yep, Ross will have a Ross Racing sct chassis that just uses the AE drivetrain soon

And whooping the SCTE's over in NZ

got my 12 tooth off time try out the 15 one on a novak 550 4.5 trun

it looks interesting. kind of reminds me of what slayden did with a traxxas slash 4x4 back a couple of years ago.

Grassroots tech FTW!

back in the day i use to make my own offset chassis for dirt oval racing. called them "geofabs" my nick name is "Geo" ...

hey guys i was wondering if you can sky the sc10 4x4 i have a factory team running a rx8 with a pro 4 4600, and orion 90c saddle pack. i have no weight added. but i lost to the scte because they were skying the big 1/8 scale double jump. i wanted to finish the race but it seemed over some moderate jumps 3ft air or so i was tilting from wind in the body or felt unstable. i dont know how they do it. i hate adding weight because the one advantage is being nimble and accelerating.

hey all, i just got a sc10 4x4, it's not new but was only raced a handfull of times by a friend of mine so it's set up pretty well.
last saturday was the first time i ever raced a 4x4 and man was it a blast!
it took a few laps to figure out if i was sideways in a turn i could just power on and it went where i pointed it....wow what a difference over 2wd sc.

the first heat i got 2nd, the 2 heat and a-main i bobbled and lawn darted it in the same section. i was running 2nd both times and when it happened the mmp shut down and had to reset, wow that cost me 15 secs (half a lap) but it seemed like forever. i ended up getting 3rd in the main after catching back up, it wasn't because i was the fastest driver but i made less mistakes than most others. it was a blast to say the least, can't wait to do it again.

i have been reading as much on this thread as i can every night and have about 200 pages under my belt so far, so much info, such limited reading time on my part.

now for the questions,
what is the center diff? is it the slipper setup
what is the 8mm mod?
how should i set the stock slipper clutch? set it on the ground and hit the throtal, watch the front end to see how much it raises?

my gear is a mmp, castle 4 pole 3,800 not sure the number, castle bec set at 6v, ace steering servo ds1015 airtronics m8/spektrum 2.4, bought from a fellow member here on rctech, gensace 5,300mah 65c stick pack

i need to shim the rear diff and i'm thinking 5k in the rear and 10,000 in the front, i was told to put the 19 tooth od gear up front, i am not looking forwards to pulling the diffs but they have to be taken care of...any hints other than a screw gun..lol

thanks for listening and any help/tips thrown my way

Running one of the super vented bodies? Did you cut most if not all of the vents out to help reduce parachute?

More weight helps in the air on big jumps, but you don't setup a car for one section of the track... unless you are losing a lot of time to the others there.

I have a heavy truck and like it.

what is the center diff? is it the slipper setup.
Center ball diff. Great but not necessary... depending on your taste I guess. What is it explanation here http://www.rctech.net/forum/10015740-post6.html

what is the 8mm mod?
Drive the truck for now and get used to it while you catch up on reading this thread to see if 8mm mod would help you. You should be reading within the past month or two, use search in this thread or google's probably better than rctech search.

how should i set the stock slipper clutch? set it on the ground and hit the throtal, watch the front end to see how much it raises?
At least get the garodisks from RCshox for the old school two pad slipper for now if not the C-Diff. Adjust to where you slip for the first few feet @ full throttle on the track you are at... traction control. Start with manual suggested slipper nut setting and adjust from there for the traction at your track.

Shim rear diff...
Do you have a few shock limiter clips under the rubber bumper on the shock shafts? You need them. 8mm total including rubber bumper.
Call AE and they will mail thicker diff shims at no cost. I think .3 thick is correct, but the .5 AE ones cost $0 to your door and one minute on the phone.