SC10 Thread Part 2
#781
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
You can get a Brushlesshobbies.com ESC for $67.95 and buy a used sensored motor or even a Hobby King budget motor like this HK X-car 10.5 or HK tracks star or the newer Track star 10.5.
Plus there are other things to do like Aluminum hexes and shock springs to name a few.
#782
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
honestly the FT is a over all better roller than what the RTR is. The Electronics in the RTR aren't really too bad other than the servo. The FT just has better parts on it and allows you to buy you're own electronics and pick with you want in it. If you're going to be racing I'd suggest the FT, fo sho! You'll end up spending almost the same amount buying everything you want and need up grading as what you will for the RTR. In the end when buying the RTR you'll wish you got the FT instead and will switch out the motor and esc anyways for a better system as well as the servo too.
#784
What do u plan on racing, mod or stock? Idk about some of these systems but what I did was get good equipment from the jump so I wasn't disappointed with quality at all and I also got help from ppl who ran those systems such as esc and servo and tuned my motor on my own with patience and a temp gun and how it performed on the track for 5, 6 and 8 min that way I know how much timing I can apply for each qual and main to maximize my motor for that time period and I wrote the results down so I can know every race day for my track. Good motors are, reedy, trinity, orca, novak, thunder power, tekins and things like that. Esc are lrp, orion, novak, tekin and that's to name a few of the better4 quality motors and esc. Servos are xp, jr, spektrum, savox, that are a few of the high quality servos. I'm just giving u namees that u will not b disappointed with the performance at all. But remember that u get what u pay for 99% of the time
#785
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
What do u plan on racing, mod or stock? Idk about some of these systems but what I did was get good equipment from the jump so I wasn't disappointed with quality at all and I also got help from ppl who ran those systems such as esc and servo and tuned my motor on my own with patience and a temp gun and how it performed on the track for 5, 6 and 8 min that way I know how much timing I can apply for each qual and main to maximize my motor for that time period and I wrote the results down so I can know every race day for my track. Good motors are, reedy, trinity, orca, novak, thunder power, tekins and things like that. Esc are lrp, orion, novak, tekin and that's to name a few of the better4 quality motors and esc. Servos are xp, jr, spektrum, savox, that are a few of the high quality servos. I'm just giving u namees that u will not b disappointed with the performance at all. But remember that u get what u pay for 99% of the time
#786
I test the tightness of my ball diff by holding one tire and spinning the other. I'll make a mark on the tire at say 12 o'clock. When I spin it, I want the mark to stop between 9 o'clock to 12 o'clock. Now, the rate at which I spin it, I don't know how to describe the speed or quickness to spin it. It's just something I've learned to get the feeling for.
One way to try and get the feel, tighten the diff down so the spring tabs are flush and spin it. Then back it off 1/8 of a turn and spin it. Use that to get the feel for the proper spin to get to 9-12 o'clock.
One way to try and get the feel, tighten the diff down so the spring tabs are flush and spin it. Then back it off 1/8 of a turn and spin it. Use that to get the feel for the proper spin to get to 9-12 o'clock.
#787
Rear springs are made and getting packaged, look for them on the site 5-7 days. We will also notify our dealer network as many of them need to re-stock their shelves. For any out of stock product, you can sign up for instant notification using the "text/email me" button. As soon as we add inventory, you get an email or text message (whatever you choose).
#788
Tech Champion
iTrader: (221)
Rear springs are made and getting packaged, look for them on the site 5-7 days. We will also notify our dealer network as many of them need to re-stock their shelves. For any out of stock product, you can sign up for instant notification using the "text/email me" button. As soon as we add inventory, you get an email or text message (whatever you choose).
#789
Can you guys link me to the SC10 4x4 sway bar adaption for the Sc10?
The first thread won't load at all for me anymore ( I hear it's broke ) - If anyone has a copy/pasta or anything it would be greatly appreciated.
The first thread won't load at all for me anymore ( I hear it's broke ) - If anyone has a copy/pasta or anything it would be greatly appreciated.
#790
Tech Adept
the 4x4 sway bars fit right on.
#791
I don't think it's quite that simple seeing as how there is no location for the front. but thanks for the response!
#792
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
Diff lube isn't really lube per say, it's more like glue. If you use too much and get it all over the gear and the diff housing, it can cause problems. The diff will still be smooth, but no longer be "free" because of the extra lube sticks all the parts together.
On my 1/10 scale 1s oval car it's super sensitive to getting this part wrong, and it uses 1/8" balls so I just assumed it would be just as bad as on the 3/32 balls in the "Stealth" tranny. I put diff lube on the diff rings only with an exacto blade, just about as thin as you can get it. I don't get any on the balls or the diff halfs or the outdrives, my diffs last a long time, and are always the same.
It is possible that I'm being overly paranoid about it and it doesn't matter, but it sure doesn't hurt to do it with less diff lube (glue). I never have to add any new parts since I went to ceramic balls, just the labor to resand the diff rings and the thrust washers. Lasts about four race days before it gets notchy and I need to clean/resand it.
On my 1/10 scale 1s oval car it's super sensitive to getting this part wrong, and it uses 1/8" balls so I just assumed it would be just as bad as on the 3/32 balls in the "Stealth" tranny. I put diff lube on the diff rings only with an exacto blade, just about as thin as you can get it. I don't get any on the balls or the diff halfs or the outdrives, my diffs last a long time, and are always the same.
It is possible that I'm being overly paranoid about it and it doesn't matter, but it sure doesn't hurt to do it with less diff lube (glue). I never have to add any new parts since I went to ceramic balls, just the labor to resand the diff rings and the thrust washers. Lasts about four race days before it gets notchy and I need to clean/resand it.
#793
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
Jconcepts has some kits coming if you can wait, otherwise look here on page 8, and copy away:
http://events.redrc.net/event-galler...own/?nggpage=8
#794
You have to build lots of parts out of carbon fiber on your own.
Jconcepts has some kits coming if you can wait, otherwise look here on page 8, and copy away:
http://events.redrc.net/event-galler...own/?nggpage=8
Jconcepts has some kits coming if you can wait, otherwise look here on page 8, and copy away:
http://events.redrc.net/event-galler...own/?nggpage=8
#795
Tech Adept