Drill and tap pinion gear
#46
It really does sound like you are making a difficult solution to a problem that shouldn't exist to begin with. Pinions don't just fly off for no reason.
What motor is this with? What size shaft? Is the shaft keyed? What car is it in? What's the general setup of the vehicle? How are you tightening the current set/grub screws down? You know, important stuff.
What you are trying to do is not impossible, but definitely not easy. If you don't have a carbide stub drill bit you are just going to keep catching an edge and twisting the bit till it breaks (just as you have already done). That type of drill bit is going to cost you at least an order of magnitude more than a new pinion. Then comes the tapping: if you are trying to tap into a hardened pinion you are going to have to run a very large clearance hole through for tapping just to keep the tap from hanging up and breaking. This will leave you with a minimal amount of thread formed in the pinion. This won't be a 75% thread form kind of job, probably between 25-50% which at that point will defeat the purpose of putting in a second screw.
Also, your lack of grasp of the English language and its grammar is astounding, especially for being a graduate of Penn State Engineering. Are they not teaching or grading on that anymore? I thought the place was turning into a joke of a higher learning institution when I graduated from there, and it appears to only have gotten worse!
What motor is this with? What size shaft? Is the shaft keyed? What car is it in? What's the general setup of the vehicle? How are you tightening the current set/grub screws down? You know, important stuff.
What you are trying to do is not impossible, but definitely not easy. If you don't have a carbide stub drill bit you are just going to keep catching an edge and twisting the bit till it breaks (just as you have already done). That type of drill bit is going to cost you at least an order of magnitude more than a new pinion. Then comes the tapping: if you are trying to tap into a hardened pinion you are going to have to run a very large clearance hole through for tapping just to keep the tap from hanging up and breaking. This will leave you with a minimal amount of thread formed in the pinion. This won't be a 75% thread form kind of job, probably between 25-50% which at that point will defeat the purpose of putting in a second screw.
Also, your lack of grasp of the English language and its grammar is astounding, especially for being a graduate of Penn State Engineering. Are they not teaching or grading on that anymore? I thought the place was turning into a joke of a higher learning institution when I graduated from there, and it appears to only have gotten worse!
#47
I have never seen this one I knew there had to be a 5mm shaft with what I want somewhere but now I have a drawing of it and am ready to make a 3d cad model so I now intend to see this through bUt definitely going to look into that pinion you recommended so I had another idea today while talking with a machinist and then we were saying why cant I make a socket headed cap screw to fit it, ie machine a gear and have it to have a counter sink for part of socket head cap screw to sit in I mean it's not a terrible idea at first glance but clearance I for see being an issue and I definitely don't want the head hitting the spur gear
I wouldn't want to through a heavy cap screw around at 30,000 rpm
#48
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 870
From: Nashville, TN
If this is the only pinion you've ever had a problem with, throw it away and get a Robinson or other name brand gear and be done with it!!!
I've never known anyone in 25+ years of rc racing to have ever needed to do what you seem to want to do to get a pinion gear to stay on the motor shaft.
I've never known anyone in 25+ years of rc racing to have ever needed to do what you seem to want to do to get a pinion gear to stay on the motor shaft.
#49
Rustlerrad3, if you really are hellbent or redesigning the wheel, you should look into designing some other means of mechanical retention than just a set screw.
#50
Although it is hard to follow exactly what rustlerrad3 is thinking about doing, I assumed that because this was all about putting in a second or third mechanical fastener, there would be at least two cap screws, so if done properly they would balance each other out.
Rustlerrad3, if you really are hellbent or redesigning the wheel, you should look into designing some other means of mechanical retention than just a set screw.
Rustlerrad3, if you really are hellbent or redesigning the wheel, you should look into designing some other means of mechanical retention than just a set screw.
I am not trying to be a smart$$$ I just want to make sure you follow my thinking and I also am putting so much thought into this because I want to do my own set up for a5th scale when I build it
#51
How about some punctuation at least? Please separate the sentences. That surely cannot be hard with autocorrect and spell check turned off? Otherwise we are just reading one huge wall-of-text, stream-of-consciousness, run-on sentence. At least make our reading of your ideas not require so much superfluous effort.
I told you how you can drill and tap out a hardened pinion earlier. I even lead you to the tooling and method you will need. Now it's up to you to either accept that millions of other people out there in the world don't have the problem you are encountering for a very specific reason, or you go ahead and create yourself a new design that solves the problem. It can be done, but it won't be easy or cheap.
I told you how you can drill and tap out a hardened pinion earlier. I even lead you to the tooling and method you will need. Now it's up to you to either accept that millions of other people out there in the world don't have the problem you are encountering for a very specific reason, or you go ahead and create yourself a new design that solves the problem. It can be done, but it won't be easy or cheap.




