It shouldn't have reached hot enough temps in that short amount of time then. The only thing I can think of is the mesh wasn't tight enough. (Not saying you dont know how to set it) I've raced about 5 times with my new E car with huge jumps, sections where I needed to be on the gas hard, and haven't had any problems. Same with a few other locals around here.


I set my mesh like how UN4RACING said he does his. As tight as possible without the gears binding up. And it's quiet out on the track as well.

I have noticed that on the motor mount that the spur looks to have rubbed the mount. The new spur I just put looks really close to the mount. The other ones looked close as well.

Yes, the spur does sit very close to the mount. If you can move the diff in the diff mount, I would put some shims in there so the spur doesnt hit the mount.

so I should just put some regular diff shims on the out drive rear bearing to shim it foward

.1-.2 MAX. You can "lock" the bearing's if your not careful.

Only if there is movemnt in there. You don't want to get it too tight because then you'll bind your bearings and cause them to fail.


Integra beat me to it! lol

In the last 3 years I've switched back and forth between plastic ans steel on the Buggy and Truggy. I've found it has alot to do with landings with brakes on or landing with full gas on that strips my plastic.

For what ever reason the Tekin RX8 esc seems to work best with plastic, stripped quite a few when using Castle MMM

15/45 is a sweet set up, I run 16/48 and DREMIL the chassis slightly for clearance, I've ran 17/50 on large tracks

Al

What chassis you guys running? I'm looking to replace mine its thin. I was thinking or getting the losi +2mm chassis. I'm currently running the stock flex chassis.

I have made all the "necessary" changes to my kit IMO as far as options. If I were to spend another dime on this kit the only thing would be a Tekno conversion Chassis.

I would stick with the Stock If it were me.

integra have u heard anything about a new buggy yet??
And will the new proline bulldog fit the ele-buggy???

anyone???

I think it really depends on what's causing the heat to know if it can happen in 5 minutes. I had a very dirty motor bearing that was causing my spur to fail. I was chasing down gear mesh, movement of the center diff, bending of the motor/diff mounts, bearings in the trans, center bearings, diff gears, etc.

I didn't realize it until I started heat-gunning everything and saw that the pinion and center diff were at like 160 or so. Not sure how hot they were at the time of failure.

So if you're (OP) still having problems, pull out the temp gun and hit your pinion and diff gear and see where they're temping at. After running the TEN-SCTE for a while, I've learned that it's not a bad idea to temp the area with where the front and rear ring and pinions connect to the F/R driveshafts every so often. I've seen a few diff cases melt due to failed bearings and it's a good way to keep those in check. Failure of those is a PITA.

I've since replaced the motor bearing with a ceramic and have been since.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post7516533 there's a picture of an older bulldog body in post 4455 at the bottom of the page, I'd like to know as well about the 2012 bulldog body?

so should I put the motor brace on or dont put it on?