does anyone know the correct part # for the axel drive pin, the one that wears our in the outdrives...I now have a drive pin removal tool...there are a couple parts labled "joint pin" but slightly off in size....Hard to tell in my manual

CO271 3x13.8 for the drive shafts
CO270 3x12.8 for the center shafts

One thing I do to make the longer chassis more stable in the rear is to move the rear hubs forward a little bit, not all the way forward just 1-2mm from centered. It puts more weight over the rear end and plants it better.

Also, I move the upper front arm all the way forward and yes it increases off power steering, but it makes it less prone to spinning out under hard accelerations out of corners. Diff oil sounds fine, everyone thinks diffs are the way to tune, they aren't, the geometry is better, then alter the diff oil from 5-7-3. I like 6-8-4 in the summer and 5-7-3 in the winter. I mix for the front and center, not perfect but who cares, but I did buy some 4 for the rear.

the rear shocks on most Mugens I see are way too stiff on the oil in the rear. I run slightly drilled white pistons with 35wt oil. I suppose if you don't want to drill them you can use 30 or the one in the middle of 30 and 35. what is it 32.? ...and take a little droop out of the rear to make it level with the front. and lower the rear ride height below the front.

and if the battery is up front put it in the rear.

nice,thanks

Does the 3 degree toe plate makes any different ?

what is the toe plate effect ?

Toe

Front Toe-in
Stabilizes the car in the straights, adn coming out of turns.
It smoothes out the steering response, making the car very easy to drive;

Front Toe-out
Increases turn-in steering a lot.
But can make the car wandery on the straights;

Rear Toe-in
Stabilizes the car greatly. It makes the rear end 'stick', but more toe-in makes the difference between sticking and breaking loose bigger.

Rear Toe-out
Rear toe-out is never used. It makes the rear of the car very, very unstable.

Which Alu servo horns do you use for throttle/brake servo?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rvo-Horn-Black

Got a question for you guys. I've been running the losi this summer and the two years before that I ran associated. I have been told that I'm too aggressive for these two buggies and that I might want to look into Mugen. Now my question is is this buggy for throttle happy folks? I've been called point and shoot. Not sure if I should be bothered by that but I'm not. And also how is this thing to work on? The RC8B was a breeze to work on and I think that the Losi is kind of a hassle.

Ill preface this with "this is my opinion"...... I had Losi before I had Mugen, the Mugen is much easier to work on, particularly the center diff setup. it is way easier to take the diff out and put it back. The buggy handles the rough much better than the losi did, it's a lot less twitchy than the losi too which really helps on longer runs. When you have to concentrate heavily on keeping your buggy going in the right direction it can be very draining mentally and usually shows up in longer mains as mental mistakes in your driving. The 6R is easy to set up to be very neutral, it will be easy to drive and no you do not need to run the battery up front like a lot of people do. I can absolutely assure you you don't need it for steering.

You going to H2 this weekend? If so I'll let you try mine out. PM me and I'll give you some more info.

I was bored and curious about other air filters on the Mugen MBX6R, so I ordered some common air filters on common cars and fitted them on the Mugen MBX6R on a O.S. XZB V-Spec.
Realize I am using the stock Mugen air filter case as comparison but I am using the Lucky 7 as the air filters foams (which are a tad bit bigger then stock air filter foams). I wanted to share these findings with others as it is good to share information. Yes, I know I have a Kyosho fuel filter on my Mugen, but only because it holds more fuel then the stock Mugen fuel filter.


Sides of air filters:
Mugen:


Kyosho: A lot wider then all of them


Durango: the skinniest and smallest of all air filters.


Associated: About the same width as Mugen. (Seems to fit better).



Tops of air filters:
Mugen:


Kyosho: About the same height as Mugen. Real similar to Mugen area.


Durango: Way lower then the Mugen but bottom seems almost too low as rubs on the throttle and on the fuel line


Associated: About the same as Mugen, maybe a hair lower, but not by much. Plenty of room underneath.


Overall the Mugen still fits good, but overall I honestly would have to say the Associated seems like the best fit, even better then the stock Mugen air filter. Not sure if the boddy will sit correctly though. I am worried though that the Associated air filter foeams were real thin compared to others, except Durango, which was also real thin. Luckily the Lucky 7 company also makes better foams for the Associated air filter set too.
Any thoughts, ideas, or inputs?
Anyone else try other air filters, that give you lower center of gravity but also gives you room underneath for fuel lines and throttle linkage?

ok, now to go race in Novelty, MO this weekend at RC Pro race

I would stick to the original Mugen air-filter housing (with a lucky 7 or similar air-filter) because of the bolt securing it to the fuel tank.

What is a heavier spring
Black
86/ 10.75.

Or 86/ 8.25 silver progressive

Both are rears ?????????

Hope u can help