I saw a pic on rc live Dustin talkin to Brent thielke from AE about his new contract next season.

I put this one in, seems pretty good so far, plenty of speed and torque for this car and only $15. Nice low profile to give room for receiver and a mylaps transponder between servo and standard battery mount. It uses the 23t horn.

www.hobbypartz.com/33p-solarservo-d770.html

it was a joke dude

An good my bad....

Going to put my tire order in for the indoor season want to hear what the fast guys of the forum think. I'm goin to stick to proline tires l so there's only two tread pattern for the front and burbs for the rear. For the rear I'm goin to pick up m4 and mc and run the dual stage insert unread of the blue closed cell. For the front burbs in m4 and mc and scrubs in m3 and m4 with losi inserts. Any suggestion would be great. Going to be doing a lot of racing at CRCRC in Columbus Ohio.

IPhone auto correct sorry guys for mis words

hey guys whats a good run of shock springs to have on hand?

Bought a Trakpower 4400mah 50C 2S Shorty pack and some wire


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Hard wired the ESC directly to the battery via bullets.



Bad thing is that I wasn't able to make it to where the positive wire was just king enough to reach the positive side because I still want to be able to move the battery back/forward for weight tuning.

Just going to have to make sure that I never plug it in backwards. *Hopefully the red marking on the battery will be enough of an indicator even if I'm in a rush.
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Not the cleanest but it will do...



Could have done better but since I may be running a brushed motor at the next MMR race I didn't take too long since I'll be redoing everything when I get a Trinity D3.5 17.5T motor.

For the 1251 you just have to dremel the rack a little on the right side. It barely catches. My 1257 did the same thing.

Here is a picture of the simple wiring scheme I ended up with using an Orion 4000 WTS battery. The ESC-to-LiPo leads are pretty short! (I wonder if I can charge off of the front bullet connectors and leave the rear connected?)

Unfortunately, my first race day was this last Sunday and the rack seized up on me. I was using the aluminum slider. When I got home I replaced it with the stock slider. The servo is more than powerful enough, I have the servo horn lined up parallel to the rack and I'm even using JRXS Type-R captured ball ends but it froze turning right after a few laps. The servo movement was free of binding, my EPA was set properly and, disconnected from the servo, the slider was totally free.

After playing with moving the servo forwards and back in the mounts and even raising the ballcup that connects the tierod to the slider I think I have the problem figured out. When you are turning left the servo arm PUSHES the tierod LEFT and DOWN. I think the DOWN part causes the binding. When turning right the servo arm PULLS the tierod RIGHT and SLIGHTLY UP.

Anyways, I hope I have the problem fixed. It works fine in the yard and the street but the track is too far away to go to test it out. (Any advice is appreciated!)

I find I only run one spring on my car all the time. White rear and orange front. I actually use the avid springs but they are the same as lost orange/white Losi, just more consistent for me.

However if you want a choice red/orange for front and yellow/white for rear.
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I noticed some of you are mounting the speed control up in front of the battery on the chassis. I'm assuming to keep weight lower in the car. How does this effect weight balance though? I would think slower transfer.

I mounted mine in front because the stock body was a tight fit with my Diratrac DE10 in the stock location. Didn't want to risk the ESC getting damaged if something hit in that area.

Make sure to set your endpoints on your radio. If you allow the servo to go too far, it will lock up on you. You must limit the servo throw to have proper range of use. Its not the alum. rack, it just needs to be adjusted. Also, the stock ball cups are use for a reason....they must be the proper length to have the correct amount of throw to each side.

I would not suggest mounting the speed control up front. Its too much weight up front and will cause a push. Put it in the back on the shelf , that is the way the car was designed.