SC10 4x4 Thread

Got a spare esc for the day I'm there

Oh, and im 39 so I could be the old guy olympics
Cain, I loved different tires from front to rear. Different compounds might help, but I dont think it would help me a ton. I dont need tenths, I need consistency and about 3 seconds. I got exactly what I wanted on my track with snipers in the rear and kit tires up front. The truck was easy to drive and went where ever I wanted. For me the truck has wayyyy to much steering on my home track. And this was night and day. It went from undrivable to easy to drive.
If you happen to have 4 digi scales, thats even better, but above is the quick & dirty balance.
More weight down low settles the truck down quite a bit. A side benefit to adding weight to settle the truck is that you will also have a balanced chassis l/r.
Last edited by fq06; 08-10-2012 at 07:12 AM.
Cain, I loved different tires from front to rear. Different compounds might help, but I dont think it would help me a ton. I dont need tenths, I need consistency and about 3 seconds. I got exactly what I wanted on my track with snipers in the rear and kit tires up front. The truck was easy to drive and went where ever I wanted. For me the truck has wayyyy to much steering on my home track. And this was night and day. It went from undrivable to easy to drive.
When traction is up, it becomes an advantage but can be a liability when its not for sure.
first what is happining to the truck
tri the mip ez to install and way faster than 2 stage i have both in the past 2 weeks i went from barly making a main to mid pack all most podium main change is mip and ball diff
2stage fast but hard to control mip more forgiving = more consistant laps i went from 37s best and 39s top5 to 32.5s best and 35s top5
tri the mip ez to install and way faster than 2 stage i have both in the past 2 weeks i went from barly making a main to mid pack all most podium main change is mip and ball diff
2stage fast but hard to control mip more forgiving = more consistant laps i went from 37s best and 39s top5 to 32.5s best and 35s top5
From what everyone is saying, I really need to invest in the centre diff. (And yes, Centre is spelled RE in the queen's english.)
OK, so from what I can tell, the general consensus is for me to buy a centre diff and add enough weight to the left side of my chassis, just to the left of the centre line until I can get it balanced left-to-right.
What about adding weight up front? I've read that this truck is almost 40-60 front to rear, where other trucks are closer to 50-50. Wouldn't adding weight up front, just to the left of centre, benefit me more?
What about adding weight up front? I've read that this truck is almost 40-60 front to rear, where other trucks are closer to 50-50. Wouldn't adding weight up front, just to the left of centre, benefit me more?
oh, I am not saying it is a fix for everything. My issue was slowing for a 180, the rear would fly all over the place. the lower bite tires up front caused the rear to follow the front better. On the street or really high bite, the rear can stay more planted. I run on an outdoor track that is anywhere from wet to dry during night races. The trick though is to find the right front/rear combination and that could get expensive. Most people just buy a set of 4 matching tires and try to make them work. But that might not always be optimal. If you have a friend that uses different tires or compounds than you, maybe you can try more combinations and fine one that works well.
I run that much up front and I jump fine. Jumping is less about weight and more about your throttle finger. Obviously if you strap 20lbs to the front, that would be different
oh, I am not saying it is a fix for everything. My issue was slowing for a 180, the rear would fly all over the place. the lower bite tires up front caused the rear to follow the front better. On the street or really high bite, the rear can stay more planted. I run on an outdoor track that is anywhere from wet to dry during night races. The trick though is to find the right front/rear combination and that could get expensive. Most people just buy a set of 4 matching tires and try to make them work. But that might not always be optimal. If you have a friend that uses different tires or compounds than you, maybe you can try more combinations and fine one that works well.
hunting for some tires right now thats for sure. City blocks (which I ordered) out here in general work well as an all around tire.
Just re-setup my car with 30K up front, 2.2/2.0 bars, and Blue/FWhite springs. That should solve my over-steer and traction roll.
*Note: I specifically tuned my car for over-steer and traction before as I had a ton of push but was still loose.
*Note: I specifically tuned my car for over-steer and traction before as I had a ton of push but was still loose.
the fast guy at my track runs an AE 4x4 and used grid irons soft on all 4 wheels. He does not use a locker or C diff or 2 stage pistons and uses a stick pack. He is like WC and AE stock. So it might just be like people say. in the hands of a good driver the truck is fine, but in my mortal hands, it needs a lot of work. heck the fast guy does not even use lead in his truck or exo chassis.



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