That would have been nice to know You might want to finish running the engine in before being overly concerned with 2 stage idling.

so its fine? it run good so far.

this is my frist race motor

That's fine, do not worry about having a two stage idle when you are first starting to break in your engine. One comment though, if you are just breaking in an engine for the first time (or not really sure how to do this and still learning) then please follow my break guide to a T and you should not have any problems. If you are following my break in guide then you will note that it says to start off by setting the HS and LS needle flush. There is nothing in there about turning the LS out 1/2 turn from however far in the guy at the factory decided to put it when he put the carb together lol. Not having problems is all about paying attention to the details, the easiest way to do this is to follow my instructions

Hi Ron,
YGPM. Thanks.

it came up a tad so i back out the low end some.

on the 3 tank my plug back out some not fun. i hope its ok

Got an interesting problem. I bought a B5 Pro a few weeks ago, and the day after I did the break-in the air filter popped off, and more than a little dust got in the engine. I disassembled the engine (with the exception of the two bearings) and carb, and cleaned everything. I motor sprayed the bearings clean, and then gave them a drop of after run oil to lubricate them.

I put the engine back together, and tried it out. The engine seemed fine, but I quickly found that it would flame out - a lot.

I then proceeded to purchase a new piston and sleeve, thinking that I had no compression left. I once again took the engine apart, replaced the p/s, and went through a break-in cycle. Near the end of break-in, I was doing some high-speed runs (short distance), and the engine would flame when I hit the brakes. I had an ample idle gap.

I took the buggy to the track tonite, thinking that perhaps a bit of tuning was in order. No matter what I did, once I got the buggy up to temp and brought it into the pits, it would idle, then slowly lean out over about 3-4 seconds, and then appear to load up. This cycle would continue. I tried some low-speed needle tuning, but no matter what I did, this oscillation would continue - changing the low-speed would change the frequency of the idle up/down, but it would still oscillate.

Anyone have any suggestions? I've now dropped close to 4 bills on this motor (good thing I already had the pipe and manifold!), and I'm a little annoyed that I'm still having problems!

The only thing I can think of is:

- leaky front bearing (but there's no oil leakage - at least, I don't think so)
- leaky needles - I did have to back them all the way out of the housing to flush the carb out - perhaps the o-rings need to be replaced?
- the carb is leaking - needs to be sealed.

The only thing I can't replace is the front bearing, but I don't think that's the issue since there doesn't appear to be a leak.

Suggestions would be most welcome!

It almost sounds like your top is too lean and bottom too rich. Bottom end masking being lean up top.

It oscillates after clearing it out or just when say idling on the box for a while (basically after no throttle input)?

Other things to check would maybe be your tank and lines for vacuum leaking. You may have another issue making your engine seem like its the culprit. If your orings look good they are most likely just fine (not always the case though lol).

Backplate seal look ok?

I'm still in the process of breaking the engine in, so the top-end is probably still a wee bit rich.

The idle oscillates after clearing it out.

I plan on checking everything on Saturday - I'll probably just reset the needles to flush, and re-tune the engine. But I'll take a peek at the o-rings, and make sure there are no obvious leaks.

It was fine before the dust got in it....dang it.

Anyone have any suggestions? I've now dropped close to 4 bills on this motor (good thing I already had the pipe and manifold!), and I'm a little annoyed that I'm still having problems!

This is why making sure that you do things correctly is so important! Stuff like this though is not the engines fault, it is simply a result of the what happened to it. This is one of those unfortunate situations where I'm guessing that not putting a simple 5 cent zip tie around the air filter neck is what caused this to happen right?

In regards to the issues that you are now seeing you need to inspect your bearings. If you got enough dirt and dust through the engine to kill the P/S set then you got enough through it to damage the bearings. If so then you are going to see increased rolling resistance which is going to affect your idle and make all kind of weird stuff happen. My suggestion would be to pull the engine apart and check the front and rear bearing. If you need to replace the front bearing (and don't have tools) you can do this by simply putting the engine in an over at 350 for 5-10 minutes. Pull the engine our with some vise grips on the motor mount tab and simply tap the front on a piece of wood and the bearing will fall out. Just insert the new one, slide the crank through both bearings which will perfectly align the bearings and set it down and allow to cool and you are done.

Your carb o-ring and what not are more than likely not the issue.

is it bad to have a plug back out some on the 3 tank?

Now that it is mentioned, if you did get that much dust in there i can see it totally toasting bearings. Surely they see the dirt long before, and for a longer duration than the p/s leave would. At the amount of rpms these engines make, a piece of dirt can go around in a bearing probly 10k times or more before you will even know it!

Since we are on the bearing topic would one of these work on the werks engines?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...w-14mm-Bearing

I know these engines are priced so darned well it almost isnt even worth it (in most cases) lol. But it might be a good tool to have around if my fleet starts expanding.

also what are the bearing sizes? same as the other name brand engines? nova's etc?

This will work on all .21 engines and it is AMAZING. I had to change out bearings in my Ninja and it was so simple I started taking bearings out of my B5's for fun.

The price is a bit steep, but totally worth it and super simple to use.

Wow, nearly $100 for a tool to take a bearing out. That's about 1/2 of the cost of an engine nowadays! Personally I've used bearing pullers in the past but I still prefer the oven method. You are not putting a lot of force on the balls or inner race pushing or pulling out the bearing. Also if you do things like I was talking about heating the case, replacing the bearings, installing the crank and then letting everything cool with the crank in you end up with perfectly aligned bearings every time!