SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,207
is there a write up on it ? im thinking you would just tap into the main esc power wires and use a plug to go in your rec. and take out the red wire from the esc rec lead.
i found a little info but nothing to detailed.
i dont even know if im gonna have this problem yet but im getting ready for the sc nats and i want to have all my bases covered.
i found a little info but nothing to detailed.
i dont even know if im gonna have this problem yet but im getting ready for the sc nats and i want to have all my bases covered.
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 275
is there a write up on it ? im thinking you would just tap into the main esc power wires and use a plug to go in your rec. and take out the red wire from the esc rec lead.
i found a little info but nothing to detailed.
i dont even know if im gonna have this problem yet but im getting ready for the sc nats and i want to have all my bases covered.
i found a little info but nothing to detailed.
i dont even know if im gonna have this problem yet but im getting ready for the sc nats and i want to have all my bases covered.
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,207
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 92
From: Northern Arizona
For what it's worth I have been running an MMP with a Savox for about a year now and have had zero issues following the initial setup. It may not be the best speed controller out there but I see quite a few of them around the track and for the money they seem like a good buy, especially when bundled with the motor. I have mine hooked up to a Pro4 4600 and my old-school Futaba 3PB with a 2.4GHz module and receiver. When I first built it, the servo would cause brownouts by just turning the wheels. For me the fix was a $0.25 6400 microfarad cap. I think if you are on a budget and want something with good warranty support it is not a bad system.
For what it's worth I have been running an MMP with a Savox for about a year now and have had zero issues following the initial setup. It may not be the best speed controller out there but I see quite a few of them around the track and for the money they seem like a good buy, especially when bundled with the motor. I have mine hooked up to a Pro4 4600 and my old-school Futaba 3PB with a 2.4GHz module and receiver. When I first built it, the servo would cause brownouts by just turning the wheels. For me the fix was a $0.25 6400 microfarad cap. I think if you are on a budget and want something with good warranty support it is not a bad system.
I probably wouldnt have bought the MMP if I knew beforehand the problems I would have with it, I will not buy another one that is for sure.
Forums are big communities, and there are a bunch of cliques within. The regular thread contributors discuss the issue of the moment in the thread they typically frequent. Your admonition will not discourage them.
BTW...I just discovered the newest update in Castle Link let's you up the voltage from the internal BEC in the Mamba Monster ESC from the previously non changeable 5VDC to 7VDC! Got to ditch my external BEC! Jus sayin.....

My servo is high speed again!


My servo is high speed again!
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 275
Good luck with that. The higher the voltage, the lower the amperage it can supply. Since the BEC already has trouble supplying the needed amps, you'll get even more brownouts. Also, you should check if your receiver can actually handle 7V, or you'll fry it.
If the castles actually worked as intended, they would be nice. Their software is pretty good. Sadly the hardware is not so great.
ok, back to 4x4. Has anyone tried Mantis's setup on outdoors minus the RCShox C diff? If so what were your thoughts? I think the individual setting make sense. It is setup to allow the rear to roll and the front to stay flat and hopefully push. But how does it work real world with no C Diff?
ok, back to 4x4. Has anyone tried Mantis's setup on outdoors minus the RCShox C diff? If so what were your thoughts? I think the individual setting make sense. It is setup to allow the rear to roll and the front to stay flat and hopefully push. But how does it work real world with no C Diff?



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