RC10B4.1 FT/WC
07-19-2012 | 12:36 PM
Need help ...
This is the second time this happened in less then a months time..left side rear cva has way to much play its destroyed 2 bearings already and tubes inside the carrier..
1 why is there so much play ..left to right?
2 what's causing damage to the tube...
It's not from over tighting...
This is the second time this happened in less then a months time..left side rear cva has way to much play its destroyed 2 bearings already and tubes inside the carrier..
1 why is there so much play ..left to right?
2 what's causing damage to the tube...
It's not from over tighting...
Yep, but with mine its because the machined areas on the top shaft that accept the back slipper plate are off. I contacted associated today and they are supposed to be sending out a replacement for that and rear hubs. The left side 0* hub included with my worlds kit is machined much to large for the bearings. You can actually watch the inner bearing spinning in the hub when you hold the car up. Not to mention how far you can move the drive shaft back and forth within the hub...
07-19-2012 | 12:40 PM
There is a lot of play because the alum hubs are trash. Wait wait dont kill me everyone. They should have used set screws to snug them up and they need to be shimmed. And... the bearing are loose in the hubs, not a great fit/finish. yes you can use tape on the bearings to make them seat better, yes, you can drill the hubs and tap them, but seriously, they should have been designed better. How are you destroying the crush tubes? That is impressive. I have destroyed a lot of rear bearing over the rears and never ever messed up the crush tube. Hell i raced for 2 months on bad outside hub bearings and the tubes were fine.. had to throw away the plastic hubs though, the outer race melted into the hub (old style crappy plastic hubs).
07-19-2012 | 01:09 PM
I could be wrong about this but I think the STRC hub carrier uses two smaller bearings instead of the one larger bearing and the one smaller bearing. That would keep me from gettin' em.
07-19-2012 | 01:10 PM
yeah, the small outside bearing is bad. I always blew those up. These look really good, but not zero deg.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ar-Hub-Carrier
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ar-Hub-Carrier
07-19-2012 | 01:11 PM
07-19-2012 | 01:18 PM
The manual instructs you to tighten the slipper so that .5mm of the shaft is sticking out past the nut. I always start there plus a quarter turn.
For the diff, you tighten it in increments of a quarter turn. To test your set up Break in the diff per many of the guides found on the internet, then place the buggy on a table and hold both rear wheels down. Blip the throttle on your radio. What happens? If you hear a barking sound and can feel grinding when you hold the wheels then the diff is too loose.
If the front wheels dont come off the table at least an inch tighten your slipper a quarter turn. Check again and adjust until the front wheels come off the ground about an inch or two for loose tracks, and 2 to 3 inches for high grip tracks. Works for me.
For the diff, you tighten it in increments of a quarter turn. To test your set up Break in the diff per many of the guides found on the internet, then place the buggy on a table and hold both rear wheels down. Blip the throttle on your radio. What happens? If you hear a barking sound and can feel grinding when you hold the wheels then the diff is too loose.
If the front wheels dont come off the table at least an inch tighten your slipper a quarter turn. Check again and adjust until the front wheels come off the ground about an inch or two for loose tracks, and 2 to 3 inches for high grip tracks. Works for me.
