RC10B4.1 FT/WC
07-19-2012 | 01:40 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 108
Just got my b4.1 worlds built, first it ran sluggish, then watched the how to build diff (thanks vid poster) and tighten the diff bit more, now no sluggish but does wheelies, lol! i got a 7.5 tekin on 22gear, is it the best way on the tekin pro esc to just turn limiter from no limit to 80% limit to stop wheelies or is gearing better more efficient?
07-19-2012 | 05:51 AM
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 58
The diff and slipper do complete different jobs. Diff= differential as in the one in the back of your truck. This diff let's the inside tire and outside tire spin at "diff"erent speeds as you go around a corner. If you make it tight the it is more like having a limited slip, better strait line traction less diff action around a corner which results in less steering.
If you set your slipper like I do, tighten the nut all the way down and then back off 1/2 turn. Set your diff up like the book said 1/8 to 1/4 back off this will give you a set up for a med to high traction track. In a low traction track you may want to loosen the diff 1/8.
The slipper protects the gears in the trans from a on power landing, too tight and the motor will try and spin right through when the tires can't turn an then you are buying new gears and may be motor.
If you set your slipper like I do, tighten the nut all the way down and then back off 1/2 turn. Set your diff up like the book said 1/8 to 1/4 back off this will give you a set up for a med to high traction track. In a low traction track you may want to loosen the diff 1/8.
The slipper protects the gears in the trans from a on power landing, too tight and the motor will try and spin right through when the tires can't turn an then you are buying new gears and may be motor.
Last edited by jayhart76; 07-19-2012 at 05:52 AM. Reason: Mistake
07-19-2012 | 06:00 AM
Has nothing to do with torque. Diff tightness is strictly side to side. Basically, it's how easy(loose diff) or hard(tight diff) your rear wheels spin in relationship to each other. And how easy the power from your motor is transferred to the unloaded wheel. Your slipper is just a breaking point or clutch, if you will, between the motor and transmission.
07-19-2012 | 06:21 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
The manual instructs you to tighten the slipper so that .5mm of the shaft is sticking out past the nut. I always start there plus a quarter turn.
For the diff, you tighten it in increments of a quarter turn. To test your set up Break in the diff per many of the guides found on the internet, then place the buggy on a table and hold both rear wheels down. Blip the throttle on your radio. What happens? If you hear a barking sound and can feel grinding when you hold the wheels then the diff is too loose.
If the front wheels dont come off the table at least an inch tighten your slipper a quarter turn. Check again and adjust until the front wheels come off the ground about an inch or two for loose tracks, and 2 to 3 inches for high grip tracks. Works for me.
For the diff, you tighten it in increments of a quarter turn. To test your set up Break in the diff per many of the guides found on the internet, then place the buggy on a table and hold both rear wheels down. Blip the throttle on your radio. What happens? If you hear a barking sound and can feel grinding when you hold the wheels then the diff is too loose.
If the front wheels dont come off the table at least an inch tighten your slipper a quarter turn. Check again and adjust until the front wheels come off the ground about an inch or two for loose tracks, and 2 to 3 inches for high grip tracks. Works for me.
07-19-2012 | 06:28 AM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (27)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 589
From: San Jose, CA
I had Steven Hartson set my slipper at the past JConcepts Summer Nationals. I use to always set mine so it raises about 3 inches. Hartson set it so it instantly pops up about 10 inches when given full throttle. Track was med/high bite. He said thats his normal setting for all tracks.
07-19-2012 | 06:47 AM
The manual instructs you to tighten the slipper so that .5mm of the shaft is sticking out past the nut. I always start there plus a quarter turn.
For the diff, you tighten it in increments of a quarter turn. To test your set up Break in the diff per many of the guides found on the internet, then place the buggy on a table and hold both rear wheels down. Blip the throttle on your radio. What happens? If you hear a barking sound and can feel grinding when you hold the wheels then the diff is too loose.
If the front wheels dont come off the table at least an inch tighten your slipper a quarter turn. Check again and adjust until the front wheels come off the ground about an inch or two for loose tracks, and 2 to 3 inches for high grip tracks. Works for me.
For the diff, you tighten it in increments of a quarter turn. To test your set up Break in the diff per many of the guides found on the internet, then place the buggy on a table and hold both rear wheels down. Blip the throttle on your radio. What happens? If you hear a barking sound and can feel grinding when you hold the wheels then the diff is too loose.
If the front wheels dont come off the table at least an inch tighten your slipper a quarter turn. Check again and adjust until the front wheels come off the ground about an inch or two for loose tracks, and 2 to 3 inches for high grip tracks. Works for me.
07-19-2012 | 08:22 AM
The diff and slipper do complete different jobs. Diff= differential as in the one in the back of your truck. This diff let's the inside tire and outside tire spin at "diff"erent speeds as you go around a corner. If you make it tight the it is more like having a limited slip, better strait line traction less diff action around a corner which results in less steering.
If you set your slipper like I do, tighten the nut all the way down and then back off 1/2 turn. Set your diff up like the book said 1/8 to 1/4 back off this will give you a set up for a med to high traction track. In a low traction track you may want to loosen the diff 1/8.
The slipper protects the gears in the trans from a on power landing, too tight and the motor will try and spin right through when the tires can't turn an then you are buying new gears and may be motor.
If you set your slipper like I do, tighten the nut all the way down and then back off 1/2 turn. Set your diff up like the book said 1/8 to 1/4 back off this will give you a set up for a med to high traction track. In a low traction track you may want to loosen the diff 1/8.
The slipper protects the gears in the trans from a on power landing, too tight and the motor will try and spin right through when the tires can't turn an then you are buying new gears and may be motor.
Last edited by derekbsmith; 07-19-2012 at 09:27 AM.
07-19-2012 | 09:27 AM
The manual instructs you to tighten the slipper so that .5mm of the shaft is sticking out past the nut. I always start there plus a quarter turn.
For the diff, you tighten it in increments of a quarter turn. To test your set up Break in the diff per many of the guides found on the internet, then place the buggy on a table and hold both rear wheels down. Blip the throttle on your radio. What happens? If you hear a barking sound and can feel grinding when you hold the wheels then the diff is too loose.
If the front wheels dont come off the table at least an inch tighten your slipper a quarter turn. Check again and adjust until the front wheels come off the ground about an inch or two for loose tracks, and 2 to 3 inches for high grip tracks. Works for me.
For the diff, you tighten it in increments of a quarter turn. To test your set up Break in the diff per many of the guides found on the internet, then place the buggy on a table and hold both rear wheels down. Blip the throttle on your radio. What happens? If you hear a barking sound and can feel grinding when you hold the wheels then the diff is too loose.
If the front wheels dont come off the table at least an inch tighten your slipper a quarter turn. Check again and adjust until the front wheels come off the ground about an inch or two for loose tracks, and 2 to 3 inches for high grip tracks. Works for me.
Yeah I was referring to using the slipper trick (holding the wheels and gunning to get 2-3" of lift in the front) in my earlier posts. I wasn't getting lift, and started to hear the diff slipping (so I stopped immediately). I believe you've confirmed my suspicion that the diff is too loose. I'll tighten a little and see if that gets the front to raise properly.
I never had this issue before, always was able to tighten the slipper nut until the front raised.. The nut was usually about 5mm past flush (yes, 5). But, I just rebuilt my diff, broke it in, can lightly flick the rear wheels and they spin 1 revolution. I thought this was money. But when I went to set the slipper, this weirdness ensued. Won't slip, won't lift. I thought it had to do one or the other.
Like I said, I'll tighten the diff a little and test a few times to see if that's the issue. If that doesn't do it, I'll have to just starting drinking. More.
Right now the car runs great (turns very well, seems to have plenty of get-up and go) but I haven't been to the track.
07-19-2012 | 10:41 AM
07-19-2012 | 12:02 PM
Need help ...
This is the second time this happened in less then a months time..left side rear cva has way to much play its destroyed 2 bearings already and tubes inside the carrier..
1 why is there so much play ..left to right?
2 what's causing damage to the tube...
It's not from over tighting...
This is the second time this happened in less then a months time..left side rear cva has way to much play its destroyed 2 bearings already and tubes inside the carrier..
1 why is there so much play ..left to right?
2 what's causing damage to the tube...
It's not from over tighting...
07-19-2012 | 12:07 PM
I had Steven Hartson set my slipper at the past JConcepts Summer Nationals. I use to always set mine so it raises about 3 inches. Hartson set it so it instantly pops up about 10 inches when given full throttle. Track was med/high bite. He said thats his normal setting for all tracks.
07-19-2012 | 12:17 PM
Need help ...
This is the second time this happened in less then a months time..left side rear cva has way to much play its destroyed 2 bearings already and tubes inside the carrier..
1 why is there so much play ..left to right?
2 what's causing damage to the tube...
It's not from over tighting...
This is the second time this happened in less then a months time..left side rear cva has way to much play its destroyed 2 bearings already and tubes inside the carrier..
1 why is there so much play ..left to right?
2 what's causing damage to the tube...
It's not from over tighting...