that was a great question asked by Derek and i wnt to know also how do you know if you have it too tight? i tighten it just enough that the diff gear dont move when i plaace a hex driver in both of the outdrives. then i install and break in and tighten 8th of a turn twice after i have dont 2 intervals of bench break in. i havent had diff prob since i have bn taught to do it this way. i still normally re do my diff every few months anyway is that normal rebuild time if i race 3 hard times a week ?

mayb more of a inverse relationship with the slipper, but I remember one time my b4 could not make certain jumps while racing...checked the diff and it was way loose. so ...just guessing...the tightness of the diff is directly related to how much torque there is?

IMO The only good reason to switch are the inboard bearings. AE makes wheels that are good enough for me. In all my years of bashing and racing I've probably broken or lost maybe 3-4 drive pins that cost maybe $3. My first rc car was a RC10T.

Because this is one of my hobbies and not my job I personally reuse wheels and tires to bash and new ones to race.

So you want the slipper to slip before the diff does. Makes sense. But what if the slipper is very loose and still won't slip? Gearing is 26/81 on a 3300kv Ready (the kind that comes with the RTR).

There is no binding anywhere.

Is this likely a ESC tuning issue, or a gearing issue, or something else? I feel like the diff is very smooth, I'm hesitant to tighten it... Ideas?

Has nothing to do with torque. Diff tightness is strictly side to side. Basically, it's how easy(loose diff) or hard(tight diff) your rear wheels spin in relationship to each other. And how easy the power from your motor is transferred to the unloaded wheel. Your slipper is just a breaking point or clutch, if you will, between the motor and transmission.

you can hear the diff slip, it does not sound good. A tighter diff is more like a posi traction and maybe that helped you get traction and go over the jump. but a tighter diff also can negatively affect corning. I know on loose tracks, they suggest going a little tighter on the diff and on high bite, they go looser but never let it slip.

I dont get that esc business. Something has to give. The slipper exists to help with traction and save the drive line. Trust me, you do no want to here diff slipping sounds. Your diff will get trashed quickly. The slipper should always slip and prevent the diff from slipping. I have no idea what the esc will do to help aside from maybe punch control. But think of the scenario when you land a jump with the throttle going. once the rear end hits, you want the slipper to take the beating, not the diff. But you also dont want to slip for 20 feet or you will never make a jump to save your life. There was a good video linked a few pages back about setting the b4 diff. WC says 1-2 inches on the lift, the video says 3, either way , you dont want more than that.

What makes you say its already loose? If its not slipping, then its not loose. keep backing the nut out until it slips. You should be able to hold both rear tires and goose the throttle and the front of your buggy should pop up from 1-4 inches. How tight you set it depends on how much traction the track has. If you goose the throttle and it tries to flip over backwards, too tight. If you goose it and the slipper just whines, too loose.

lol, why do people keep talking about stripping pins and breaking them. That is pretty rare unless you just dont pay attention. I agree, it is nice to have the bearing in the hub in the front. No other real gain, aside from the fact i hate popping bearings in and out. some people have a set of bearing for all of their tires... I am too cheap, lol. In the rear it allows for more rims to chose from and allows people switching from or to losi to keep their wheels and tires. There is no downside accept it costs about $15 to convert your hubs.

if you hear a grinding sound, your slipper is too tight and the diff is too loose.

never had a problem with factory settings on either the diff or slipper - playing with tires, compounds, and linkage lengths/ball locations has always done the trick here....just over 20 years off and on with ae buggies

Also if your diff is too tight it will push like a dump truck..too loose and it will diff out and bark

The slipper nut is backed out almost flush. It should be slipping but it isn't. The front should be lifting off the ground if it's too tight, but it isn't. Maybe the diff is a little too loose?

if you hold both of your rear wheels and blip the throttle what happens? Does the front raise 1 inch, 2 inches or does it make a slipper or diff spinning sound.

Yeah, I have an idea...have someone with some experience take your gear cover off and inspect what the hell is going on in there. Then have them fix the damn thing so you can have a slipper that functions properly.