ok thanks

Thanks for mentioning this, I've been shopping for a better charger, and this is the kinda stuff I need to know, and knowing is half the battle... (the other half is just plain malarky! j/k, idk what the other half is, maybe it's just getting better cheetos!)

Also, I pre-ordered my Tekno kit from Amain, and since it's a single pack, I'm going to run a 6s battery, with a lower kv motor. Sooo, I'll grab another RX8 and a 1300/1400 kv motor.

Boy... the 6S batteries sure are expensive!!! heck, even the 4S batteries...

I found this ThunderPower 6S at Amain, for $225. I could buy 6 2S packs for that price... oh well!
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...C-222V-5000mAh

So which is better, higher mAH rating, or higher C rating (discharge), or doesn't matter?

The 5000 mAH packs are pricier, closer to the $200 range, compared to 3000 mAH, same with C rating from 25c to 65C.

How long (not run time) in days/weeks/months, can I get away with having just 1 6S battery pack?

_

6s + Low KV is the best way to run 1/8th electric IMHO . The Tekin 1400 will be perfect. What battery did you end up purchasing? If it's a ProTek pack, it should last a long time (we've really had good luck with these lately which is why we keep mentioning them).

The main thing we do to keep our packs in the best shape is to only run for 7-8 minutes for practice (a little less if it's a smaller pack). We only run them longer for mains if they happen to be 10 minutes or 15 minutes. Discharging them too far or unnecessarily will drastically decrease the life cycle.

BTW, thanks for pre-ordering.

UPDATE:
Just saw your updated info on the battery there. Take a look at this one:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...k-222V-2900mAh

It will be plenty of power. You should be able to get ~12+ minutes out of that pack with a 1400kv motor (depending on track and driving style). For soft packs (and hard packs too), we recommend using a little velcro under the pack to protect the underside from small pebbles and dirt.

I might have to pick up one of those packs myself, they look perfect for a lightweight 6s/1400 setup.

UPDATE 2:
Some cheaper 6s options
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16486
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17259

They have 3300 as well, but for ~10 minute mains, we feel ~2500-3000mah is good.

These are the 6s I will be running. I'm also gonna use an RX8 1400kv. These come with deans pre-soldered and are 40C discharge(no need for a super high C rate with a low Kv motor). I know their appearance may not be very attractive, but Jang from the URC forums has done some tests and they perform comparable to the Gens Ace batteries that are highly looked upon. They fit the EB48 battery tray with room to spare and I am expecting to get 20min+ with them(medium sized track hard-packed clay). At 550g they are just below the weight of battery used for a sub 7.5lb buggy with the RX8. Awsome price as well($55).

http://www.valuehobby.com/power-syst...2-2v-lipo.html

What kind of rub times would i be looking at with a 1900kv t8 and a 4000 40c 4s 450g

Thanks for the info on the other batters! thats a pretty cheap 6S!!

ok, so 3000 mAH is good for a 10 min main, and 5000 mAH can last say 17-18 mins?

are there any quick reference charts out there that show mAH rating and run time for various Kv motors?

3000 should be perfect for 10 min (with some to spare). 5000 mah could be good for ~20 depending on driving style and track conditions. But a 6s/5000 would be really heavy (not recommended).

We've found the biggest factor in run time is driving style. Pro and expert drivers get much less run time on the same setup. Some people can go 20 minutes on a standard 4s/5000. So it's hard to quantify and thus no reference charts really would be accurate .

hey guys,

i did a lot of research on charging lipo's and come up with a monster charger, in which tekno has seen. what i've found out in regards to saving batteries is to not charge them to a full 4.2v per cell. On my revoletric charger, i only charge up to 4.18v per cell. and only discharge as low as 50% or so. With this, i have been charging the same nano-tech batteries at 40A (YES, i said charging at 40A) since last November. i have around 5 cells i have been doing like that. They are all still running like champs! I highly recommend only charging up to 4.18V per cell.

There has been some discussions saying charging at higher AMPs will ruin batteries. I have seem to disqualify that claim. I ALWAYS charge ALL of my cells at 40A. I have seen ZERO degradation.

I also agree with techno, 6S is the best setup IMO as well. 1300kv to 1400kv is perfect.

=teeforb

40A, wow! what chargers can charge up that high? What kinda Powa Supply do ya need?

Maybe you should change your team name to "Team High Current"! or "Team High Charge!" !!!

then ... you can have a T-shirt that says "THC" on the front or back!!

The cadillac of chargers Its on my wish list for a while hehe. Cellpro powerlab series from FMA. You can do 2S @ 40A with a regular 500W power supply but for the full 6S/8S pack capacity got to have one monster supply ~ 1300W!!

BTW I used those hobbyking 2650 nanos 6s on my xray. Don't break a sweat at all and I get around 10 minutes enough for mains!! Did I mention my RTR is 7.5 pounds so in the Tekno should on paper be more runtime all other things being equal.

^ holy crap, you could power my friends Escalade stereo system with that kinda juice! just don't let it get loose! haha, ok, stoopid pun...

so now that I've pre-ordered... I have a few tech questions, hope I'm not re-posting...

- what material is the center spur made and what sizes would be available?

- are there any pics of the diffs (front/rear and center)? I'm a bit of a conoscere when it comes to diffs. And whats the "access" ability of these diffs?

- will the kit come with aluminum front/rear blocks? pics looks like their all plastic.

- will wheels come with the kit?

- will any of the first 100 or 1,000 orders get a free T-shirt?! (see previous post, I like T-shirts!)

- website suggestion: for the image gallery at the bottom of the page, you guys should update it so that when you click on the navigation elements; next/prev, or a number.. then after the page loads, it moves/scrolls to the bottom of the page automagically, where the image gallery is - this can be achieved by using a simple 'hash' in the url and the browser will do the rest! This prevents the user from having to do so when paginating.. OR, an even better way, would be to not re-load the page at all, and load up the next set of images via AJAX (not the cleanser). Also, same thing for the "slideshow" version. And the slideshow should be able to pause or move forward or back. And you might want to remove this text "<p>[dsfaq id="2"]</p>" which is probably just for debugging purposes. I'm a web developer by trade, so, I can help out if you have any questions!!

_

I am also a big fan of 6s systems... pity some races still require 4s. That is why I have 2 of the same rig, one is 6s one is 4s. Smaller batteries for 6s (5000mah is way overkill)... and DO NOT RUN TILL DEAD. I have several 6s 2600 mah hard case packs that are about 3 years old and still work great!

When you say do not run lipo''s till they are dead, you mean without a cut-off right. I usually run until my ESC hits the cut-off voltage (I use a 3.2V per cell cut-off). Is this bad? I've not heard until now that running until a cut-off might substantially decrease battery life.

I.love this charger http://www.revolectrix.com/pl6_description_tab.htm

And you can use this to see what you need for a power supply

http://www.revolectrix.com/PL6_calculators_Main.htm
I read and read and I found that this was the best charger out.

Running down to a 3.2v cutoff is probably not a good idea. I have ours set to 3.5v and we almost never hit it.

Interesting bit of info that teeforb dropped about the 4.18v per cell instead of 4.2. I'll have to try that.