I switched over to Dubro rod ends on my rear camber links. It just isn't right to pop off the rod end with the stock setup any time you want to change the camber link mounting settings, which causes the ball cup to get a bit looser every time you do it. With the Dubro rod ends, you just unscrew the ball from the u-brace or hub. They are nice and smooth, and I've never had any trouble with them popping off.

I like the larger bore of the lunsfurds and the 4mm center for easy adjusting, but unfortunately they are too big for the RPM ball ends (they fit but waaay too snug and cant adjust while on the car). I feel like the rpm ball ends are so great that i pretty much need to use them, so ive had to switch the lunsfurd turnbuckles back to the blue FT ones.
Man if rpm made a larger bore ball end for the lunsfurds it would be perrrfect.

Why not use the Lunsford ends? I like them a lot. They are very close to the RPM ones. In fact I like them a lot better.

I use Lunsford turnbuckles with RPM ball cups. Never had an issue threading them on or adjusting. I run them on my B4.1 and SC10.

OK I found out what they are. Dug thru the manuals on rc10.com and it looks like the original toe block was a 3+2 block. I am assuming that is 3 degrees of toe and 2 anti-squat.

3+2 is the SC10 4x4 part, not the sc10

I have few spare titanium turnbuckles from my sons XXX-SCT. They dont use the ball cup so i may give those a test. I agree, having to remove the ball cup everytime you need to make an adjustment gives it to much tear and wear.

On a different note... Im in the process of rebuilding my gear diff... any of you suggest running oil instead of AE Grease? Im looking for better rear traction. I normally pack the diff with black grease. Would 5000wt oil be better?

Also keep looking to upgrade my rear hubs to aluminum. I hear this will help the life of my rear bearings. What degree would be the best or most common?

I checked the manuals for the original rtr brushed sc10. Part #9818 rear hinge pin plate. But yes the 3+2 is also a 4x4 part.

+1 Lunsford are great with RPM ends. For me the RPM ends last better.

The plastic B44 hubs are great upgrade. I have the aluminum ones with .5 degree. 1 degree are good. What suspension mount are you using. Im running the 3.5 degree

I did a back to back comparison of 1 diff with black grease and 1 diff with 5000wt oil.

Black grease was good for the first minute but after that car felt like the rear was on ice. Porblem is the black grease thins after it heats up.

The 5000wt oil still gets a bit thin but its much less noticable the rear of the car felt much more planted.

Do the B44 hubs use the same bearings? I just restocked my bearings so would like to keep it the same if possible. Is the plastic on the b44 stronger or what is the reason that its a good upgrade? Im also using the 3.5 degree mount.

Cloaked - Thanks, I will try the 5000 weight oil, makes sense the black grease would thin out. Would 7000 be way to much you think?

[QUOTE=mysupratoy94;10966958]Do the B44 hubs use the same bearings? I just restocked my bearings so would like to keep it the same if possible. Is the plastic on the b44 stronger or what is the reason that its a good upgrade? Im also using the 3.5 degree mount. [QUOTE]


No, same inner bearing, the outer bearing is much bigger. The bigger bearing last better. I havent had bearing issue since the upgrade. Associated part number 9730 for plastic and 9865 for .5 degree and 9866 for 1 degree. bearing are sold seperately.



http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/9865/

Honestly dont know, depends on track conditions.

Thinner or Light Fluid = More Grip but less stability on Power. Suitable for Low Traction conditions.

Thicker or Heavier Fluid = Less grip but more stability on power. Better for high bite/high traction conditions.

Why not drill the ball ends so you can stick the wrench in when needing to make ballstud height adjustments?

For the gear diff, I've done some reading of the old thread, and it seems most agree that 5000cst is a bit thick. So is 3000, 2000 and 1000.
I had 3000, so that's what I put in mine the other night, but haven't run it yet.
Consensus seems to be somewhere around 50-80wt. shock oil instead. The two fluids aren't measured the same way, so they're not that different, viscosity wise. I don't remember where I saw it, but I believe 500cst is about the same as 70wt.