What caused the air bubbles? I have had that problem on 3 separate mills my Losi Truggy (less than1 gallon ran through it) My Losi buggy (2 fuel tanks one brand new the other less than 6 months old and new fuel line) and then on my Mugen (Brand new with only two tanks on a stock Losi 350 then the Orion went on) I put new exhaust gaskets on the engine and the connection pipe with new springs, used old fuel line for clamps, even put a piece near the Losi tank so the fuel line couldn't move. After every run I spray the tank off with air while holding my thumb on the cap keeping it down, then I use parts cleaner and spray and wipe. I have taken the tank out and inspected it for dirt and even checked the clinker to make sure it was clean. My 2058 pipe was making a boiling sound, so I tried my 2013, my stock losi, an Integy pipe and I had the best results with a Novarossi 9901 pipe, but even with that pipe there were a few bubbles, but nothing like with the 2058. I sprayed the engine while running and no change in idle, I will do as you suggested and pull the carb and check all the orings again and even on the seats. What about sealing an engine, can someone post a photo and say what they use to seal it?

I have a new 2012 5 port Orion still in the box, thinking about using it at the end of the month at our club race, not sure if I want to use it or my 7 port, but if I use the 5 port, how many tanks would you let it idle prior to putting it on the car and running more through, then how many just basically idling on the track with no throttle shots? I broke in the Cody King like I did my 7 port and my 7 port is still running strong after about 5 gallons, only flamed out twice in 5 mains.

Thanks again for all your help
Jerome

Here's a couple of photo's showing how i sealed my engine. I sealed the backplate, carb, pinch bolts, and HSN washers with Permatex Hi Temp RTV sealant (http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...one_Gasket.htm). I also put a zip-tie around the carb boot, and i used a tacky grease (http://www.moreyoil.co.nz/moreys-sup...rproof-grease/) on the HSN, LSN, idle screw & pinch bolt orings.

When using the sealant, make sure you don't get any inside the engine, and use it sparingly. I use my finger to apply it and q-tips to clean it up. Also, prep the surface by removing any oil with carby spray on a clean paper towel.

Thanks!

Sealing A Nitro Motor by Dyno Part1


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NZVlhdYE-Q

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYtjCnfA8Sk

Hey guys i just bought a discovery combo brand new and from what i ahev heard the rod is the one weak link in this motor? which rod do you recomend that i use? I am gonna tear it down after break in and replace the rod.

Will the werks rods work? LOL that just reads funny.

Or should i use a orion only rod?

didnt have a problem with my stock rod.

Nor did I and I had one go almost 7 gallons.. Break it in and run it..

Ok then i wont worry about it just keep an eye on the rod. Thanks Guys any recomendations as far as break in? I'll be using the traditional heat cycle method leaving the needles at factory settings. Is the 2013 the best overall pipe for this motor? I have heard these thinsg get great fuel mileage.

Which discovery engine did you get, the 3port or 5port? Heat cycle works est IMO, and don't be surprised if at 1/2 a gallon your ready for a race tune, my 2nd disco break-in crazy fast..

2013 or 2058, are the best pipes for the 5-port, IMO..

Hi,
i just got too a very good deal on combo Orion Alpha .21 ABI Discovery Buggy 3 Ports Engine (ORI80657) and Orion EFRA 2013 Tuned Pipe (ORI88217).
Any one know the year of production of Discovery engines and their "story", i don't think they are still in production. Am i right or wrong?



The engine is broken in and i had my first race with it and i'd say i liked it, is very smooth and with a nice bottom punch, run times are great and i can easily go over 10 minutes.
Don't know much about pipes and what to expect with different ones, any suggestion?

WWD

I believe its the 5 port i have to double check on that tho it was such a good deal at the LHS i coulndt pass it up, i have been running os based engines for a while but i hve heard really good things about the Oions so i figured i would give it a try.

WWD,

the only other pipe i would really run on that is a 2058. It will give a lil more top end and run time than the 2013, but not much. 2013 has better bottom/mid.

If it is the Gray case it is the 5-port, the 3-port got the Black paint treatment..

They do tune slightly different from OS, so be prepared.. Once break-in is done, set Idle gap to .5mm. Adjust LSN until you have a consistant idle that does not drop off. Drive it around the track, to adjsut HSN for good consistant speed, until you find you get no more performance, and dial it back 1 hour.. Bring in and recheck Idle, Idle should be good still but if it is a high idle, or is dropping off you might still need some adjustments..

Thanks Scott i believe the idle gap is set from factory am i correct in that? It looks pretty small compared to an os that is normally at 1mm, i double check with calipers before break in but i think i am good. i am not a big fan of touching needles until the motor has let go of at least 80% of it metal pinch i use my radio to keep in idling, also it is the five port as it has the grey case. I also purchased a weeks B2 to have with the disco i believe these two engine should compliment each other well. From everything i have read it seems that you do not want to touch the idle on these engines just use the LSN for idle speed and hen for overall power.

No the idle gap is not set from the factory on any LM engine. Scott is basically quoting the tuning method that I came up with for our engines a couple of years ago which you can find more details about on any of our threads. Be aware though that anytime you lean your HS needle as he is indicating your LS needle is going to lean out also (as fuel flows through your HS needle first and then through your LS needle). So when you lean your HS your idle speed will increase and you have to compensate for that by richening your LS if you use my fixed 0.5mm air gap system

Also to save you some trouble down the road, rule of thumb is never blindly trust that how the needle settings came on your engine from the factory are correct for break in no matter what brand you are using. It's your engine in your car with your unique set up and you need to adjust your engine for that. It is never a good idea to just leave them like they came and not touch them until you are 80% of the way through the break in process. If you need some help with detailed break in instructions take a look at the first post on any of my threads. This system will work with any engine from any brand