The sc10 4x4 seems pretty durable to me. I have had a few crashes where I could have sworn I would tear off half the truck. We had a big steel I beam near a large jump and I think it had a magnet in it, because I always smashed into it. I have never broken a part on this truck (knock on wood). But yeah, it does appear to be a lot of work to get the setup and to work on it. I replaced my steering rack last night with the optional rack and man, I had to really tear apart the front. It seems like I need to disconnect the front belt and gear for anything i do. But I am not suffering from DNF either, which I like. Also, have you guys noticed how bendy the rear arms are? When I was putting on the C Hubs, I noticed the rear arms are like rubber.

What is the 8mm mod?

Here we go again, lol. The trolls will be surfacing soon. I would be more than happy to help you with that question, but I dont even understand the answer, I just did it because everyone else was.

Guy I know that has one is constantly fixing something. They break, a lot. If you're a pro driver who never crashes, they are awesome. Really put the power down. But 1 crash, and your fixing something.

I'll stick with my AE. Crashed hard many, many of times. Only major breakage was a servo saver.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10933351-post26015.html

[QUOTE=Wild Cherry;10933401]

Here you go sloMo

Btw people were talking about greasing the servo saver. I think that was in the you tube video for how to build the truck

That's every recommendation I've seen except for the manual and WC's instructions.

No dont do it...go buy some 3mm or 1/8" washers at any hardware store, that will get you by until you can get more spacers. I am running a 5mm block that I made on mine, it has both holes so I can have both a ballstud and a screw holding it down. Then I have 2mm of washers on top of it to get to 7mm.


Even with it greased and as loose as I can run it the thing hardly moves.

I grease every servo saver i've ran on Slashes to T4's to Losi Mini-T's to obviously my Sc104x4. There's nothing wrong with doing it. Yes, It does attract grease, but it won't seize the thing.

The Sc10 FT tells you to grease it.
The RC8.2e tells you to grease it.

It's not a taboo 'no no'. Don't worry or read into it much or into WC 'at all'. Grease or don't. It did not cause your saver to fail. I've blown 3 of them ungreased, greased, loose, and tight and did not hit anything. They just failed. I don't give a honest sh*t was WC says. Going around a corner on an indoor track, coming off a shelf into another hairpin and the saver busting (2 packs after the previous replacement) is not me being a bad driver. I just got a bad one. (inb4 bad driver, binding issue, etc)

The STRC AL set is fantastic and works damn well. I can use Mantis' Ackbar or the FT ackbar or the ackbar that comes with it itself. It's great. It's just insurance for those crappy breaks I want nothing to do with.
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Oh, and the 8mm mod feels great on a sh*tty blown out track too.

on a different topic, I noticed when I installed the optional rack that it was a couple mm thinner at the ball stud. Any issues with durability? I didnt check before I installed it, but does it change the ball stud height on the rack?

the ballstud goes through more, so the height (location of ballstud - well besides more forward or more backwards) doesnt change, you can use shorter ballstuds to avoid possible rubbing.

Looks like it will clear ok. If the stud is higher does that impack handling?

the stud isnt higher, just sticks out the one end, so it doesnt change anything, only the adjustability of a more forward hole and a more rearward hole.

I have the new ft and it was the bell crank that ended up breaking not the rack.