I guess I never thought of that.

Installed my 22 springs tonight, had to use orange fronts because my reds didn't come in yet. Car seemed to run good, was traction rolling, but only because I finally put mini pins on it for indoor carpet. Just need a little dialing in, although it's time to get it dirty I suppose so I don't want to waste time setting it up for indoor. Had rear traction like crazy, and steered like mad, so time to bring it outside and see what happens.

Thx for the response. So that I have this right, you just grind down the raised portion?

a.e dont play around. They have the best drivers around I am sure they have put a lot of time into these shocks. Look at the k shocks.....All the k guys use a losi piston...wth is that? lol


but honestly....the b4.1 is one of the quickest cars out hands down....it may be one of the least forgiving compared to losi or k but that makes better drivers...

ill tell you right now I miss mine...

Yes

So, local indoor track, The Ohio RC Factory, has been letting the track dry out. Running Losi pink ribs and M3 Holeshot 2.0s with Bomb 1s in them and the ribs have a whole PL rear crammed in em. Running silver TLR springs up front and whites in the rear with C hub towers and 2° antisquat. It's got a TON of forward bite, not quite enough side bite and as my buddy put it "it's like driving a knife."ThunderbirdJunkie is thinking he should pull the antisquat shim and it should at least put it in the right direction. Any ideas outside of that?

Please AE. Release the BB's soon!

You're supposed to also use the rear C towers when grinding the brace flat.

Went to the track today for some testing...first test of the day was bodies. Started with finisher body..car felt ok little loose on pwr. Some push on pwr..switched to bulldog body .buggy was planted on pwr carried more corner speed. Pulled it off the track time for carbon top plate. Back to the track buggy carried even more corner speed exit and entry..was amazing push on pwr was non existing. Finsher body now car still felt the same on the straight little loose..corning improved less on pwr push..still no where near the speed and fell of the bulldog body.

All testing was done on indoor blue groove track..smc battery..losi ribs front.panther rattlers rear...unfortunately scoring system was not working..

So to sum it up..
Bulldog body .carbon top plate bulldog body will vastly improve rear on pwr grip..carbon top plate..improves on pwr corning..entry and exiting....

Im most likely going to be switching to associated soon, and will be getting the b4.1 wc, So far on my list im getting the avid steering assembly, avid bearings, ceramic diff balls, I want to do the bb spring conversion, and ive searched and I am confused on the things needed, does anybody have a link or part numbers needed for the conversion? Is there anything else that is really a good and a big improving upgrade that I should also get? Thanks.

personally i wouldnt use ceramic diff balls...too hard to keep consistent..use carbide diff balls and ceramic thrust. For the cheepest big bore conversion is losi spring cups and traxxas retainers.

Add a washer under rear ballstud...or lengthen rear link, more neg camber...

maybe diff tires...square fuzzie? suburb? play with it..

i run at a indoor track (sometimes) that does dry out to,i like my shocks in the rear arms out,i like the way if feels maybe ask him where his is,could help some

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Cup-Set-TLR-22
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rs-Upper-Lower
Would these be the ones?

yes, everyone said the Traxxis lowers are hard to get on, mine slid right on. So I didn't need to purchase to Losi lowers.