That's nice.

I'll give you that, that is the only thing the slipper is better at. No pins!

Easy, yes; reliable, only with the Garodiscs. Unless you like removing inner front drive slipper pad to deglaze after just about every heat to keep front end pulling like it should. These Garodiscs are the bomb. Three races and they look brand new. Thank you Marcus!

Only been using Ae pads...




Been cleaning all three VTS pads after every 15 runs or so.....
Could go longer but oil from the diff seeps in though top shaft.


Oil main reason I have to clean ...

From the looks of the race videos you have posted, the tracks have so much grip you probably wouldn't notice if your front wasn't pulling like it should be. I don't see how your tracks would be anything close to what I race on therefore our findings on teardown and feel of trucks on track would be completely different.

No. you see. That's where WC's logic is solid.

No matter where you play or race... If your experience doesn't coincide with WC's: You're doing something wrong.

Here's my opinion since I own both the AE pads and garodiscs. They both work and will get the job done, the difference is the garo's last alot longer. In the end you can't go wrong with either product but in the long run you'll save alot more money running the garo's then you would with the AE pads........

I am one of the few that have tried all the setups from the original stock slipper setup, mactheknifes slipper setup (with AE's pads, and garo's), center diff v1 and v2, and now I am running the FT VTS slipper setup with garodisc's and exoteks inner hub and I'm really liking the performance of it so for now that is what I'm sticking with......

You only need to test ride my truck Coyote.....


That's all it would take ....



linney , you have no clue , I would notice lack of pull after 2 turns ...

+1 .... So far the FT VTS slipper setup with garodisc's and exotek inner hub has been the best IMO

Which one jumps the best?

I doubt that. For six months you claimed the stock slipper was fine! Compared to that, how would you know?

Last week, someone posted on here about their diff's not spinning freely. I just rebuilt mine with the AE 0.5MM shims and now I'm having a similar issue. I didn't realize until I put mine all back together. The front tires were hard to turn. They felt like the diff was binding. To figure out where it was happening, I started by decoupling the belt from the front diff. The diff spins freely now that it's not connected to the topsahft. Then I went to the back diff and found it wasn't spinning near as free as the front. So I backed off the V2 spring on my V2 Center Diff. Once I removed the spring, the back diff spins as free as the front. As soon as I put the spring back on and tighten it a couple turns, not all the way, maybe 3 turns, the back diff is stiff again and hard to turn.

So, my question is, is that normal? When the spring is compressed, should the wheels be harder to turn than when it's not connected? If the back is "binding", then that explains why my front feels stiff once I connect the belt to the topshaft.

Again, diff's spin freely on their own. I have the tensioner set to spot 4, second from the top, so that shouldn't be too tight. I've backed off the screws on the tranny cases. Topshafts don't look bent at all. Maybe all this is normal and I just didn't realize it before. But thought I'd throw it out to all you experts out here.

Pretty much..

what size nut drivers do you need for the sc10 4x4 factory team kit truck?

Check your inner spacer that goes between the bearing and the thrust washer. sounds like your thrust washer is hitting the trans case. Try adding a small axle shim there to see if that helps.