I went from 0 to .5 and I drive it better


It is all on how the track is and how you drive.

I used 0 deg hubs and drove fine. I went to .5 hubs and drive it better.
This is mainly on the track I race at 99% of the time though. tight small low ish speed turns.

Isnt a 3 degree toe block with 0 degree hubs the same thing as 2.5 degree toe block and .5 degree hub? Or am I missing something?

You're probably tightening the wheel a bit too tight. Your setup looks right on key though.

Also, check your front by making sure they spin freely once you have the wheel on. If they stop too short, its on too tight.... if you have WAY too much slop, it's loose.

to a point yes.
Someone on here was getting into fine details on the hub vs the toe block

I ran a 2.5 block and 0 hubs
I now run 3.5 block and .5 hubs. I am wanting to try some 1 hubs
I also cut my foams to allow the tire to fold more.

Blingy,
T4 gearing normally is 87 spur cause the extra torque need some drop to a 84 with the b4. normal is 81 u see 84 also for torque many go in the 70 range for spec classes to get the need hp..
Alos keep in mind motor position is used as a tuning aid to shift weight forward and back and u change the spur size to do that so the weight can sit over the rear axles..

QUOTE=chevmaro;10825564]WHy do I keep crushing bearings on the inner rear hub? I have only had this car out 5 times and have replaced bearings twice. Is this common or is something missing? I am pretty sure it is assembled correctly. Small bearing inside, tube inbetween, big bearing outside, 2 axle shims, blue spacer. Am I missing something here?[/QUOTE]

Chevmaro,
in the instructions it show like you said but its it seems that its different time to time.. i have 1 shim small tube big then 2 shims then blue washer just have to make sure u have some play also might wanna cvhange the drive pin so they dont fall out so u can shim better ause if there to loose its in the back of ur mind ur gonna lose the pin and u over shim it.. Also might wanna look into the hex's since your kit is new ..

Hi,

3 friends and I, currently racing 1/8 offroad buggies in Switzerland, are considering running 1/10 2WD brushless buggies in the winter season (there are no 1/8 indoor tracks, and winter is dead for outdoor racing around here). With the amounts we sink into our favorite hobby, we were considering a low cost approach to 1/10 2WD, and all want to have the same equipment - no arms race.

The cheapest available in Switzerland consists in the RC10B4.1 RTR kit. The Worlds kit is the same price but requires esc/motor/servo in addition.

Now the RTR kit, from what I've read, does have a few shortcomings (servo, shocks, esc/motor, else?). And so I have a couple of questions:

1. In your opinion, what are the parts that need an upgrade or which upgrades will offer the most effective/efficient improvements in the RTR kit. Remember we are just looking for a relatively reliable & decent performing car, while limiting costs as much as possible, not looking for top performance.

2. If we go the Worlds kit route, what would be a good low cost ESC/motor combo to recommend (looking for the equivalent of a Xerun 150A/Leopard motor combo people use in 1/8 buggies). Recommended servos welcome!

Any thoughts and feedback welcome,
Cheers,
Nick

Hi,

You could try these:



Direct link: http://p-dubracing.co.uk/index.php?m...products_id=42

(It's my store, so I hope the link is ok.)

MiCk B. :-)

Sounds like you have the wrong crush tube in there. If you have the wrong one and you tighten the wheel down to press the two bearings and crush tube together as a unit, the smaller inner bearing will be the one that bites it first.

Quote:Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Who makes thin metal shims that will help take the play out of the rear alum hubs and the pivot pin? Might use them up front also. The B4 gets sooooo loose.

kyosho makes shims that work for this
Kyosho 3x5mm Shim Set
[KYO96641]

McMaster Carr makes shims of all different sizes for dirt cheap. While you are there, pick up some wheel nuts for dirt cheap, BHCS's for dirt cheap, FHCS's for dirt cheap and SHCS's for dirt cheap. I always take the slop out of the aluminum rear hubs by tapping a hole in the hub itself and using a screw to lock the hub to the hinge pin. If you get slop after that just replace the arms. Those are dirt cheap too.

Do hexes save the rear bearings any? I am going to try new crush tubes to make sure they are the right ones. I doubt my wheels are too tight I only hand tighten them.

that is so confusing and wrong. The gear difference is simply due to the different tire diameter of the rear tires. It's called rollout and can radically change gearing so it must be addressed.

They are not only longer (to fit the cups better) but they are a little larger in diameter too.

Couple questions because I am basically done building my worlds kit here are the problems I encountered:

There were no drive pins that go through the axle.. I thought maybe they were in a different package or a package I put on the floor.. nope I searched through it 2 times..

Then the rear hubs were totally different colors for some reason.. (any idea why that is)

Other than that I got the whole kit done

They machine the left and right sides separate, and they get sent to the annodizer in separate batches. That way they don't make a mistake and sent you two lefts or something.

Blue is the hardest color to match for the annodizer for some reason. It's not a big deal.