Transfer those hop-ups to your worlds

Cheapest way to get to worlds spec:
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...1&keyword=%2B8
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...&products_id=2
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...&products_id=1
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...products_id=30
It's up to you if you want an extra car or not.

Ok. Thx a lot guys. I was leaning towards just getting a new buggy. It seemed to make more sense

This typically shows up with the Tekin ESC, Savox servos, and Spektrum receivers, this is the first time I've heard of it with a Futaba receiver. I picked up a Savox servo because it was orange and matched the other anodized goodies on my Durango even though everything else I run has Hitec servos. I had the exact same issues you're having. Dropped one of the Hitecs in there and no issue.

Did this setup work properly for you in the past?

Has anyone tried the nano tech shorties in the b4 because i want a shorty just dont want to spen 80$ and not end up liking the feel of one and the nano tech is just 33$
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

Havent tried them but I also couldnt find a setup I liked with the shorties and bought some more fullsize packs. Your results may very. For the record, I had the same results with the 22.

I see alot of people like them that do realy good with them so i just want to give it a try to see if i like it better

Ibhave had te same prob with a savox and specktrum reciever and dx3c radio went to glich buster and stopped the prob. Now I'm with a futaba 4pl and haven't had that prob just a bad reciever and then sent it in and they replaced it. But it do sound like u are getting brownouts and if the glitxh buster isn't helping then try another servo and if that fix the prob sell the old on. But firdt make sure that the ends are plugged n all the way in the reciever first and no wires are frayed, if they are u can place a dab of solder on the frayed are and then heat shrink that section a lil. Check all wired and the antenna it could have got frayed upon installation. I hope this is helpful to u man and good luck with ur troubleshooting and prob solving

Damn, more to drink than I've had (and that isnt easy)!

I've tried shorties and fullpacks and I liked the shorty alot better makes the car feel a lot more nimble and responsive and I could push it harder. The only downside I had was that it wasn't as good as handling the pot holes and bumps as a full pack.

Lol, that shit's hard to read!

Haha, kinda fun to try to read though.

Shaved U-Brace and C hub revisited!

Ok guys I've read most of the old posts on the shaved U-brace and "C" hub tower setup. For some it works and others it don't.

So wondering if anyone has tried using a shaved U-brace with a modified stock RTR hub?

What I did with my RTR B4.1 (cars my experimental for mods to my Worlds car, currently running a 6.5 motor) is I took the stock hub and drilled a hole for the ball stud about a 1/4 of an inch below the center hole, "C" hubs drop mounting holes 2mm. This puts the hole at the top corner of the rectangular indentation on the hub. Placed a washer and nut on the off side of the hub (indentation side) for support and stability for stud. One washer on the brace side.

Hooked it all up. At bones level the turnbuckles are almost level with the bones.

This B4.1 has been twitchy out of the box, no matter weight, tires, caster, camber ect! Always twitchy!
Done this mod and a totaly different car! Handles good and predictable, corners very well on power comming out of turns. And seems the mod is durable, has'nt worked loose or broke a hub yet!

Anyone with any thoughts on this or even tried this??

Hobby people has new shortys out too that are very reasonable.

Why do ppl say the B4 is twitchy? The B3 was twitchy for sure. I always felt like the b4 was stable and predictable. To me anyways, maybe because I run stock though on a high bite track.