The AE spring rubbing on the shock body is annoying but its also a sign that the spring isn't collapsing properly. If you watch the shock from the side you can see the spring bending under compression. Either grinding the springs to sit correctly or getting a set of springs that already work properly (Kyosho velvet springs or Durango non-BB springs work just as well) will make the car feel more consistent. I am a big fan of the Durango springs. They work better than the AE springs and cost about the same. I don't believe anyone has posted actual lap times showing an improvement from standard spring to BB spring. I could be wrong on that though.

If I replace my 0 deg plastic hubs with the .5 alum hubs, I would expect more traction in the rear, correct? Would the increased traction be straight line or in the corners?

Everywhere. The rear end will just be more planted overall, but you might find yourself with more more under-steer than you bargained for. Check lap times to see if it helped or hurt you.

I noticed that with the motor not mounted, when I spin the spur gear the spur woobles alot. Before I spend $$ on rebuilding the entire trans. any suggestions on the culprit?

Drive shaft? motor plate? spur gear?

Could be bent top shaft, take the sPur gear off and spin it and see if it's bent and or has play. If its straight and the bearings aerent blown then it's probably your spur gear.

I was reading some old posts on this thread about gearing. I guess no one really uses the 81T spur for 13.5 or 10.5. It seems that the 75 or 72 were popular last fall. And amain hobbies describes the 72 and 75 tooth spurs as the brushless spurs for the B4. Because it moves the motor forward and allows for better gearing in 10.5 to 17.5 motors. I have been running 22/81 in 10.5 non boosted and 22/81 for my 13.5 with 30deg timing. The motors come of cool. After a 10 minute main with my 10.5 the esc and motor were slightly above room temp. Should I change my gearing? I see a lot of ppl doing 35/72, which seems crazy to me.

35/72 for 17.5 blinky

27T Stock Motor 23 81
19T Super Stock Motor 22 81
17.5 Brushless Motor 22 81
13.5 Brushless Motor 20 81
10.5 Brushless Motor 24 81


This is from the b4.1 manual. I assume the 20/81 for 13.5 includes a lot of timing? Either way, this chart does not seem to match with what racers are saying, not even close really.

Other's can comment on 13.5 or mod, as I have no experience with those motors. For 17.5 non-timing, a FDR in the 5's to low 6's would be more appropriate.

Make sure your pads are sitting flush in the spur gear

You have any bottom end with that motor?I'm using pinions 31-32 on a 72 spur

13.5 blinky 27-30/72 depending on traction
17.5 31-32/72
13.5 boost/timing 20/84 it has no problem doing a standing wheelie down the straight

I just replaced my non boosted Viper 17.5 for a Tekin RS / Redline 13.5. Not sure if I want to run boost or not. Whats a good place to start for gearing? I wont really have much time to practice but will be going right after work tomorrow and start racing. I have it 25/75 right now is that a good place to start?

I am new to 2wd buggy class. But where I race at is a large fast track. I run 17.5 blinky with 69/34 gearing. Seems to do well. Not sure if revelant or not to 13.5. Temps really low. around 100 at worst.

Any suggestion on what level of drag brake to run, if any, on Tekin RS with 17.5 Redline. Using 223 software. Or is it a personal preference?

Thank you in advance.