RC10B4.1 FT/WC
What are some things to look at or adjust if the rear end of the car over rotates under braking going into a corner?
Things I have done. 2.5 toe block, 3.5 toe block. .0 hubs, .5 hubs
2deg anti squat spacer. battery forward. battery rearward.
-1 exp on ESC, -2 EXP on ESC... -20 exp on radio. 90% brake on ESC. 90% EPA on radio., 80% EPA on radio,
Not all these settings at one time.. was playing with them one at a time. I did find If i go under 85% EPA on brake. I do not have enough brake power to stop the buggy when I late brake into a corner.
any ideas?
thanks
Things I have done. 2.5 toe block, 3.5 toe block. .0 hubs, .5 hubs
2deg anti squat spacer. battery forward. battery rearward.
-1 exp on ESC, -2 EXP on ESC... -20 exp on radio. 90% brake on ESC. 90% EPA on radio., 80% EPA on radio,
Not all these settings at one time.. was playing with them one at a time. I did find If i go under 85% EPA on brake. I do not have enough brake power to stop the buggy when I late brake into a corner.
any ideas?
thanks
Under braking? Start with decreasing the EPA on the brakes.
Ideally, you want to be done braking before entering the turn, but sometimes I use the brakes to kick the back out.
If you're looking for more stability/predictability out back you can do tons of things:
-Bring camber back towards 0
-Hubs forward
-More negative toe
-More limiters in rear shocks
-Lower ride height in the back or higher in the front
-remove weight from front or add it to the back
-Find a less aggressive tire for the front, or more aggressive for rear
-Ackerman
-Softer oils
-Softer springs
-Move battery back
Have you tried the C-hubs? I've also found that I prefer a longer rear camber link.
Ideally, you want to be done braking before entering the turn, but sometimes I use the brakes to kick the back out.
If you're looking for more stability/predictability out back you can do tons of things:
-Bring camber back towards 0
-Hubs forward
-More negative toe
-More limiters in rear shocks
-Lower ride height in the back or higher in the front
-remove weight from front or add it to the back
-Find a less aggressive tire for the front, or more aggressive for rear
-Ackerman
-Softer oils
-Softer springs
-Move battery back
Have you tried the C-hubs? I've also found that I prefer a longer rear camber link.
first thing i would do like top said is check epa or decrease the amount of brake you are using.i have about 60% in mine but i only tap the brake before i turn in 90% of the time i don't use the brake at all
Under braking? Start with decreasing the EPA on the brakes.
Ideally, you want to be done braking before entering the turn, but sometimes I use the brakes to kick the back out.
If you're looking for more stability/predictability out back you can do tons of things:
-Bring camber back towards 0
-Hubs forward
-More negative toe
-More limiters in rear shocks
-Lower ride height in the back or higher in the front
-remove weight from front or add it to the back
-Find a less aggressive tire for the front, or more aggressive for rear
-Ackerman
-Softer oils
-Softer springs
-Move battery back
Have you tried the C-hubs? I've also found that I prefer a longer rear camber link.
Ideally, you want to be done braking before entering the turn, but sometimes I use the brakes to kick the back out.
If you're looking for more stability/predictability out back you can do tons of things:
-Bring camber back towards 0
-Hubs forward
-More negative toe
-More limiters in rear shocks
-Lower ride height in the back or higher in the front
-remove weight from front or add it to the back
-Find a less aggressive tire for the front, or more aggressive for rear
-Ackerman
-Softer oils
-Softer springs
-Move battery back
Have you tried the C-hubs? I've also found that I prefer a longer rear camber link.
I will give a few of those a try. I may just need to try to teach myself a different braking habit.
I have C-hubs on it and shaved U-brace. I have a butt load of traction straight line and out of the turns. Car handles very good there. just oversteers like a mofo into a turn.
After seeing some ideas you posted. I got a few things I can try..
Just gotta wait for the 5 hour practice time on a weekend again..
Going to test out some 1/8th Buggy nitro action this weekend
Almost forgot, what are you running for toe up front?
If you're running toe-out up front, then set it to 0* or even 1/2-1* of toe-in. It'll really calm it down on turn-in and give you a little more steering on the way out.
One of my favorite adjustments.
If you're running toe-out up front, then set it to 0* or even 1/2-1* of toe-in. It'll really calm it down on turn-in and give you a little more steering on the way out.
One of my favorite adjustments.
I will give a few of those a try. I may just need to try to teach myself a different braking habit.
I have C-hubs on it and shaved U-brace. I have a butt load of traction straight line and out of the turns. Car handles very good there. just oversteers like a mofo into a turn.
After seeing some ideas you posted. I got a few things I can try..
Just gotta wait for the 5 hour practice time on a weekend again..
Going to test out some 1/8th Buggy nitro action this weekend
I have C-hubs on it and shaved U-brace. I have a butt load of traction straight line and out of the turns. Car handles very good there. just oversteers like a mofo into a turn.
After seeing some ideas you posted. I got a few things I can try..
Just gotta wait for the 5 hour practice time on a weekend again..
Going to test out some 1/8th Buggy nitro action this weekend

I have it at +1 deg cause I was having problems with no turning. Now I got that dialed. I shall readjust that 1st and go from there... thanks
Big D wants me to come out Saturday and play with this 1/8th scale buggy. Rhino and Brandon said If I drive one. I will end up wanting to buy one.
I have the Avid system on my B4.1 and my SC10 and I have stripped the splines out of 4 plastic servo horns off of the same double jump. The solution was the pro style aluminum servo horns. They use the front screw and side clamping screws to hold on tight. But since there is no servo saver, something has to give in a hard crash. It'll probably b the ball cup that mounts to the servo arm next
ThunderbirdJunkie did a weekend or two ago. Mind you this same servo horn has been in the car for over a year and it was a Futaba servo horn stuck on a Spektrum servo (oops; didn't realize it until taking it apart) and the rack's been on there since it was available.
ThunderbirdJunkie crashes like he gets paid for it, so take that for what it's worth.
ThunderbirdJunkie crashes like he gets paid for it, so take that for what it's worth.
1/8 scale buggy would be a lot of fun. However, everything for those damn cars are so expensive.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Under braking? Start with decreasing the EPA on the brakes.
Ideally, you want to be done braking before entering the turn, but sometimes I use the brakes to kick the back out.
If you're looking for more stability/predictability out back you can do tons of things:
-Bring camber back towards 0
-Hubs forward
-More negative toe
-More limiters in rear shocks
-Lower ride height in the back or higher in the front
-remove weight from front or add it to the back
-Find a less aggressive tire for the front, or more aggressive for rear
-Ackerman
-Softer oils
-Softer springs
-Move battery back
Have you tried the C-hubs? I've also found that I prefer a longer rear camber link.
Ideally, you want to be done braking before entering the turn, but sometimes I use the brakes to kick the back out.
If you're looking for more stability/predictability out back you can do tons of things:
-Bring camber back towards 0
-Hubs forward
-More negative toe
-More limiters in rear shocks
-Lower ride height in the back or higher in the front
-remove weight from front or add it to the back
-Find a less aggressive tire for the front, or more aggressive for rear
-Ackerman
-Softer oils
-Softer springs
-Move battery back
Have you tried the C-hubs? I've also found that I prefer a longer rear camber link.
Easier to understand when watching touring cars on carpet. Tracks are usually technical with tight turns. Check out a few videos and watch the fast guys and notice how they will brake while straight, set their suspension, and then roll into and power out of the turn
(wish I could practice what I preached haha)



