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Old 05-24-2012 | 06:22 AM
  #15076  
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What are some things to look at or adjust if the rear end of the car over rotates under braking going into a corner?

Things I have done. 2.5 toe block, 3.5 toe block. .0 hubs, .5 hubs
2deg anti squat spacer. battery forward. battery rearward.

-1 exp on ESC, -2 EXP on ESC... -20 exp on radio. 90% brake on ESC. 90% EPA on radio., 80% EPA on radio,

Not all these settings at one time.. was playing with them one at a time. I did find If i go under 85% EPA on brake. I do not have enough brake power to stop the buggy when I late brake into a corner.

any ideas?

thanks
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Old 05-24-2012 | 06:48 AM
  #15077  
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Under braking? Start with decreasing the EPA on the brakes.

Ideally, you want to be done braking before entering the turn, but sometimes I use the brakes to kick the back out.

If you're looking for more stability/predictability out back you can do tons of things:

-Bring camber back towards 0
-Hubs forward
-More negative toe
-More limiters in rear shocks
-Lower ride height in the back or higher in the front
-remove weight from front or add it to the back
-Find a less aggressive tire for the front, or more aggressive for rear
-Ackerman
-Softer oils
-Softer springs
-Move battery back

Have you tried the C-hubs? I've also found that I prefer a longer rear camber link.
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Old 05-24-2012 | 07:23 AM
  #15078  
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first thing i would do like top said is check epa or decrease the amount of brake you are using.i have about 60% in mine but i only tap the brake before i turn in 90% of the time i don't use the brake at all
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Old 05-24-2012 | 07:29 AM
  #15079  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Under braking? Start with decreasing the EPA on the brakes.

Ideally, you want to be done braking before entering the turn, but sometimes I use the brakes to kick the back out.

If you're looking for more stability/predictability out back you can do tons of things:

-Bring camber back towards 0
-Hubs forward
-More negative toe
-More limiters in rear shocks
-Lower ride height in the back or higher in the front
-remove weight from front or add it to the back
-Find a less aggressive tire for the front, or more aggressive for rear
-Ackerman
-Softer oils
-Softer springs
-Move battery back

Have you tried the C-hubs? I've also found that I prefer a longer rear camber link.

I will give a few of those a try. I may just need to try to teach myself a different braking habit.

I have C-hubs on it and shaved U-brace. I have a butt load of traction straight line and out of the turns. Car handles very good there. just oversteers like a mofo into a turn.

After seeing some ideas you posted. I got a few things I can try..

Just gotta wait for the 5 hour practice time on a weekend again..


Going to test out some 1/8th Buggy nitro action this weekend
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Old 05-24-2012 | 07:37 AM
  #15080  
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Almost forgot, what are you running for toe up front?

If you're running toe-out up front, then set it to 0* or even 1/2-1* of toe-in. It'll really calm it down on turn-in and give you a little more steering on the way out.

One of my favorite adjustments.
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Old 05-24-2012 | 07:41 AM
  #15081  
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This buggy is so planted compared to my 22 its not even funny. I have too much traction. What toe are you guys running? I have 4 degree in there and I think I might switch to a 3 degree.
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Old 05-24-2012 | 07:49 AM
  #15082  
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Depends on the surface you're running on and how much traction it offers.

Anything medium traction and up, and 4* sounds like a lot.
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Old 05-24-2012 | 07:49 AM
  #15083  
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Originally Posted by brent701
I will give a few of those a try. I may just need to try to teach myself a different braking habit.

I have C-hubs on it and shaved U-brace. I have a butt load of traction straight line and out of the turns. Car handles very good there. just oversteers like a mofo into a turn.

After seeing some ideas you posted. I got a few things I can try..

Just gotta wait for the 5 hour practice time on a weekend again..


Going to test out some 1/8th Buggy nitro action this weekend
Don't do it Brent. You thought you had a lot of money tied up in you 1/10 stuff. That's not even close to what 1/8 is gonna cost you. I won't even try it because I know I'll like it
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Old 05-24-2012 | 08:15 AM
  #15084  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
This buggy is so planted compared to my 22 its not even funny. I have too much traction. What toe are you guys running? I have 4 degree in there and I think I might switch to a 3 degree.
sob I 100% forgot about my toe settings.

I have it at +1 deg cause I was having problems with no turning. Now I got that dialed. I shall readjust that 1st and go from there... thanks
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Old 05-24-2012 | 08:16 AM
  #15085  
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Originally Posted by Tradin Paint
Don't do it Brent. You thought you had a lot of money tied up in you 1/10 stuff. That's not even close to what 1/8 is gonna cost you. I won't even try it because I know I'll like it
That is one hold back

Big D wants me to come out Saturday and play with this 1/8th scale buggy. Rhino and Brandon said If I drive one. I will end up wanting to buy one.
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Old 05-24-2012 | 08:27 AM
  #15086  
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Originally Posted by polarbear72
I have the Avid system on my B4.1 and my SC10 and I have stripped the splines out of 4 plastic servo horns off of the same double jump. The solution was the pro style aluminum servo horns. They use the front screw and side clamping screws to hold on tight. But since there is no servo saver, something has to give in a hard crash. It'll probably b the ball cup that mounts to the servo arm next
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
ThunderbirdJunkie did a weekend or two ago. Mind you this same servo horn has been in the car for over a year and it was a Futaba servo horn stuck on a Spektrum servo (oops; didn't realize it until taking it apart) and the rack's been on there since it was available.

ThunderbirdJunkie crashes like he gets paid for it, so take that for what it's worth.
Good to know... I actually just ordered spare servo horns and the link set from the servo horn to bellcrank just to be safe if something does end up happening. Thanks guys.
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Old 05-24-2012 | 08:29 AM
  #15087  
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It's an Associated. Your LHS doens't stock servo horns? Shame on your LHS.

=P
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Old 05-24-2012 | 08:30 AM
  #15088  
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Originally Posted by Tradin Paint
Don't do it Brent. You thought you had a lot of money tied up in you 1/10 stuff. That's not even close to what 1/8 is gonna cost you. I won't even try it because I know I'll like it

1/8 scale buggy would be a lot of fun. However, everything for those damn cars are so expensive.
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Old 05-24-2012 | 08:31 AM
  #15089  
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What do you guys think of the Lunsford ball cups? Anyone run these?
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Old 05-24-2012 | 09:46 AM
  #15090  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Under braking? Start with decreasing the EPA on the brakes.

Ideally, you want to be done braking before entering the turn, but sometimes I use the brakes to kick the back out.

If you're looking for more stability/predictability out back you can do tons of things:

-Bring camber back towards 0
-Hubs forward
-More negative toe
-More limiters in rear shocks
-Lower ride height in the back or higher in the front
-remove weight from front or add it to the back
-Find a less aggressive tire for the front, or more aggressive for rear
-Ackerman
-Softer oils
-Softer springs
-Move battery back

Have you tried the C-hubs? I've also found that I prefer a longer rear camber link.
He's pretty spot on. I would adjust your approach before your car. Ideally your braking zone is well before the turn, and then you roll into the turn and power out. The difference between alot of fast cars is how much speed they can carry through that first part of the turn.... if you can brake less than the other guy, and your car is stable through the entry of the turn, youll be faster coming out and faster through the entire turn because of this.

Easier to understand when watching touring cars on carpet. Tracks are usually technical with tight turns. Check out a few videos and watch the fast guys and notice how they will brake while straight, set their suspension, and then roll into and power out of the turn

(wish I could practice what I preached haha)
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