inner ballstud on the shock tower

There is about a 1/4 inch difference, are they all like this?

if i go anything more then 2.5 pads from the back my rear end is on ice,i run 1.5 pads back and its awesome

i run 2 washers on my steering knuckle and 2 washers on the tower ball stud.on the rear i run the shaved u brace,1 washers with the c hubs and ball stud in the middle,

around here everyone runs the pack in the middle..three pads rear three pads front. i guess everyone has their preferance

I'm going to try it in the middle and will probably run some standard sized batteries as well.

in the front shock tower, heres a setup I have been playing with. Very hard to get right bc track constantly changes. You never know how its going to be, wet, dry, in between, dusty, slimy, dusty slimy and just terrible lol. The weather here in long island is changing so much it is effecting the indoor a lot.

Front- 32.5 a.e oil, 56 losi piston, silver tlr spring, inside tower out on arm. Ball stud with one washer inside tower, inside castor block. 2 washers for the bump steer. -1 camber, 24 ride height.

Rear- 30 a.e oil, 56 piston, yellow tlr spring, inside tower out on arm. Ballstud inside on shaved u brace with one washer, middle on carbon c hub tower. 24mm ride height and -1 camber.

glued servo savor, all plastic plastic parts, been playing with tlr springs and stock green rear, dk yellow k front. I get a more direct car with the standard springs and it lands very well, the tlr are more plush which help when i want some more bite but it really depends on how it feels to me ON THAT DAY.

I use zip free to grip, motor spray when they are newer. This is a full pack in the car btw. Good luck, this is basically what local guys are running and tiny things i played with. works very well for me. props to them.

When you guys race, do you use the brake on the trigger at all or use any of the drag/auto brake features with the speed controllers? The fastest racers can pivot very fast through the corners, I am just wondering what the key to doing this is.

i use a little bit of neutral brake but usually i give a quick tap on the brakes to get a nice quick whip around the corner it works way better that way in my opinion then when you get used to it getting around the corner quick you'll get used to getting back on the throttle quicker as well

i run 17.5 blinky,i have my epa set very low on the controller,just enough,kinda acts like abs brakes on a car,anymore it just wants to spin around on me,i do have a little drag brake on my tekin rs,i think 13?

hey guys, i just bought a b4.1 brushless rtr. i bought it because it was on sale at my hobby shop so i just decided to buy it. i was going to buy the factory team but i just decided to get the rtr. i want to know what i should upgrade on my b4.1. so far all ive upgraded are the tires. so if you guys can tell me what i should upgrade ill be more than happy. thanks

blitz if you start upgrading your rtr car it is going to cost you twice as much as the factory team would have. I know you are in south fl like me and the tracks you are going to run at you will need a good esc and motor. Run you car and as stuff breaks replace it with the better parts. Also the tires that came with the car is not going to work for racing.

I was wondering which tires you would recommend for racing or is that dependent upon the track? Are there common tires that most use?

I was wondering if I am missing a tool in my factory team kit? Is there a driver that comes with the factory team kit for the ball studs? I have so many Associated cross wrenches but none seem to fit the ball studs and because of it I had to stop building my kit. Any help would be much appreciated.

I have no problem running to the LHS or to Home Depot but I am not sure of the ball stud size.

jbj the tires that come with you car are good you have the factory team so you have super soft hole shots great for clay tracks. as for the ball studs use the allen key that came with the kit right in the top of the ball