VTA at SMA and General Trans Am THread
#31
#32
#33
#34
#35
#36
#37
Would HPI Part 7495 qualify as a VTA Body?
I have a couple of new bodys to paint up (68 and 69 Camaro and 77 Trans Am) and am looking for ideas paint wise, everyone in VTA locally seems to have gone red, I had been using the Parma Cuda Body and it handled ok (A LOT better than the J71) but looks like s#it!
Local VTA is 17.5 Blinky, no FDR limits, 1500 gram limit.
I have a couple of new bodys to paint up (68 and 69 Camaro and 77 Trans Am) and am looking for ideas paint wise, everyone in VTA locally seems to have gone red, I had been using the Parma Cuda Body and it handled ok (A LOT better than the J71) but looks like s#it!
Local VTA is 17.5 Blinky, no FDR limits, 1500 gram limit.
#38
Would HPI Part 7495 qualify as a VTA Body?
I have a couple of new bodys to paint up (68 and 69 Camaro and 77 Trans Am) and am looking for ideas paint wise, everyone in VTA locally seems to have gone red, I had been using the Parma Cuda Body and it handled ok (A LOT better than the J71) but looks like s#it!
Local VTA is 17.5 Blinky, no FDR limits, 1500 gram limit.
I have a couple of new bodys to paint up (68 and 69 Camaro and 77 Trans Am) and am looking for ideas paint wise, everyone in VTA locally seems to have gone red, I had been using the Parma Cuda Body and it handled ok (A LOT better than the J71) but looks like s#it!
Local VTA is 17.5 Blinky, no FDR limits, 1500 gram limit.

On a personal note it would be good to see clubs adopt a uniform rule set that closely resembles the US so that we can all cross participate at any club and all be on a fair and equal playing field.. In the US and several other countries the class has taken off due to the fact that the class is uniform cheap and a great fun class..
Here is the Body list again for anyone that hasnt trawled through the first couple of pages...
HERE ARE Some Body's and part numbers available for VTA from various manufacturers
Bolink part numbers:
BL2262 '68 Chevrolet Camaro
Also known as RJ Speed Part # BOL2262
BL2263 '65 Ford Mustang
Also known as RJ Speed Part # BOL2263
HPI part numbers:
17510 - 1970 Plymouth AAR 'Cuda
7494 - 1968 Chevrolet Camaro
17531 - 1969 CHEVROLET CAMARO Z28
17508 - 1965 Ford Shelby GT-350
17519 - 1966 Ford Mustang GT
104926 - 1966 FORD MUSTANG GT COUPE BODY
105106 - 1970 DODGE CHALLENGER BODY
100639 - 1967 CHEV CORVETTE -Painted Black Body
100473 - 1967 CHEV CORVETTE -Painted Blue Body
NEW 107201 -1978 PONTIAC TRANS AM Body
Note:
For the HPI Mustangs which are not provided with a spoiler:
A lexan spoiler of 16mm total height from trunk deck, and overall chord of 20mm is allowable. All other bodies must use the spoiler included with that specific body set. Built in spoilers may not be enhanced. 17546 - 1970 Ford Mustang Boss 302 (scale wing ok)
Parma part numbers:
10196 - Parma 61 Chevy Impala Body
10143 - 1969 Z28 Camaro
10141 - 1970 Boss Mustang
10113 - 1970 'Cuda
Pegasus Hobbies part numbers:
PGH4000 - 1964 Chev Impala
PGH4001 - 1970 Camaro SS
PGH4002 - 1970 'Cuda
PGH4003 - 1970 Mustang
Protoform part numbers:
#1526 - J71 CAMARO
McAllister Racing part numbers:
#286- 1969 Mustang body
RC CAR KINGS
#RAE719 - 1978 Smokey and the Bandit Pontiac
Great Vigor
#210119 - Holden XU1 Torana
Exclusive Collectibles
#2006B - Ford XY GTHO Red
#2010B - Ford XY GTHO Gold
EUREKA
#MUSCLE5 - Holden SLR 5000
Last edited by Rubedude; 04-25-2012 at 06:44 PM.
#39
These are the rules we employ at SMA for Vintage Trans AM.
Chassis Specification:
Any 1/10 4wd or Fwd sedan with 4 wheel independent suspension.
Weight Specification:
1500g weight
Body Specifications:
Any 190mm or 200mm body. 1960 to 79 Either HPI or Others suitable, SMA has made variation to include Australian Muscle.. Stock Car, Slanted GT or modern Japanese Bodies or any body post 1980's do NOT comply....
Tire & Wheel Specifications:
Tires-Any treaded HPI Vintage #4793 Fronts # 4797 Rears
Wheels- Any HPI Vintage 26 Front 32 Rear Example #3815 Fronts #3820 Rears
Five or Eight spoke wheels available in various colors. 0mm offset front wheels and 6mm offset rear wheels are intended for 26mm width fronts and 31mm width rear tires. 8-spoke Vintage wheels from #3805 through #3814, 5-spoke Vintage wheels from #3815 through #3822 and Vintage stock car wheels from #3854 through #3860, Vintage Wheel CC Type #33472 and #33473, Vintage Wheel DTP Type #33474 and #33475 are all legal wheels.
Ride Height Specification:
Minimum ride height is 5mm.
Motor Specifications:
21.5 + 2s lipo batteries No tuning rotors, must use OEM rotor 12.3-12.5mm (Motor itself can have timing as per approved 21.5 list)
Approved ESCs:
No Timing Just Stock or Blinky ESC ROAR approved spec software or USVTA list
Race Specification:
5 minute qualifiers
5 minute mains
Battery Specifications:
ROAR approved hard case batteries
Chassis Specification:
Any 1/10 4wd or Fwd sedan with 4 wheel independent suspension.
Weight Specification:
1500g weight
Body Specifications:
Any 190mm or 200mm body. 1960 to 79 Either HPI or Others suitable, SMA has made variation to include Australian Muscle.. Stock Car, Slanted GT or modern Japanese Bodies or any body post 1980's do NOT comply....
Tire & Wheel Specifications:
Tires-Any treaded HPI Vintage #4793 Fronts # 4797 Rears
Wheels- Any HPI Vintage 26 Front 32 Rear Example #3815 Fronts #3820 Rears
Five or Eight spoke wheels available in various colors. 0mm offset front wheels and 6mm offset rear wheels are intended for 26mm width fronts and 31mm width rear tires. 8-spoke Vintage wheels from #3805 through #3814, 5-spoke Vintage wheels from #3815 through #3822 and Vintage stock car wheels from #3854 through #3860, Vintage Wheel CC Type #33472 and #33473, Vintage Wheel DTP Type #33474 and #33475 are all legal wheels.
Ride Height Specification:
Minimum ride height is 5mm.
Motor Specifications:
21.5 + 2s lipo batteries No tuning rotors, must use OEM rotor 12.3-12.5mm (Motor itself can have timing as per approved 21.5 list)
Approved ESCs:
No Timing Just Stock or Blinky ESC ROAR approved spec software or USVTA list
Race Specification:
5 minute qualifiers
5 minute mains
Battery Specifications:
ROAR approved hard case batteries
#40
I agree that a national set of rules for VTA in Australia would be great, the track I run at is an ex Nitro track so it's quite large (had the Nats there last yr) so to run a 21.5 there would probably result in many of us falling asleep (but if a natural rule set was adopted and we followed suit I'd gladly change over), unlikely you'd ever have to let off the throttle. That said on 17.5 tyre wear is much more pronounced, a set of fronts will last you maybe 2-3 club days.
#41
I agree that a national set of rules for VTA in Australia would be great, the track I run at is an ex Nitro track so it's quite large (had the Nats there last yr) so to run a 21.5 there would probably result in many of us falling asleep (but if a natural rule set was adopted and we followed suit I'd gladly change over), unlikely you'd ever have to let off the throttle. That said on 17.5 tyre wear is much more pronounced, a set of fronts will last you maybe 2-3 club days.

With bigger tracks where possible it may be the case that perhaps you have a cut through that can be used to make the track slightly smaller producing more competitive racing.. our track although large is more specific to 1/10 and offers us many combinations that we can run to make it optimal length or minimal depending on what we need...
#42
On a personal note it would be good to see clubs adopt a uniform rule set that closely resembles the US so that we can all cross participate at any club and all be on a fair and equal playing field.. In the US and several other countries the class has taken off due to the fact that the class is uniform cheap and a great fun class..
The rules & guidelines are pretty much the same as what you have put in here, mostly relating to car types, weight, motors, esc's, tires, body shells etc.
There's nothing set in stone as yet as we are evaluating what people would like within the class but I dare say it'll be similar to what you have put here.
Another thought with the VTA class is for the length of time for the races, with pretty much everyone having decent high capacity lipo batteries maybe consider extending the time from 5 mins to 6 mins, maybe even more for a final?
Not so long ago I got myself a Dodge Challenger shell but part of the sticker sheet had come loose and was sticking to itself. The rear bumper sticker was trashed along with the rear trim around the tail lights, I was able to carefully rescue the tail light one thankfully.
Seeing your paint design on your Dodge gave me a little inspiration on how to do a paint job that looked good without having the rear chrome bumper sticker. Not shown in the pictures is a Hobbyking set of car led's that I picked up for about $5 and installed them in the car which has earned it the nick name of "Sparkles" at the track.


Cheers
Rob.
#43
Rube, at Castle Hill on Friday nights we're starting to get a VTA class up and running too.
The rules & guidelines are pretty much the same as what you have put in here, mostly relating to car types, weight, motors, esc's, tires, body shells etc.
There's nothing set in stone as yet as we are evaluating what people would like within the class but I dare say it'll be similar to what you have put here.
Another thought with the VTA class is for the length of time for the races, with pretty much everyone having decent high capacity lipo batteries maybe consider extending the time from 5 mins to 6 mins, maybe even more for a final?
Not so long ago I got myself a Dodge Challenger shell but part of the sticker sheet had come loose and was sticking to itself. The rear bumper sticker was trashed along with the rear trim around the tail lights, I was able to carefully rescue the tail light one thankfully.
Seeing your paint design on your Dodge gave me a little inspiration on how to do a paint job that looked good without having the rear chrome bumper sticker. Not shown in the pictures is a Hobbyking set of car led's that I picked up for about $5 and installed them in the car which has earned it the nick name of "Sparkles" at the track.


Cheers
Rob.
The rules & guidelines are pretty much the same as what you have put in here, mostly relating to car types, weight, motors, esc's, tires, body shells etc.
There's nothing set in stone as yet as we are evaluating what people would like within the class but I dare say it'll be similar to what you have put here.
Another thought with the VTA class is for the length of time for the races, with pretty much everyone having decent high capacity lipo batteries maybe consider extending the time from 5 mins to 6 mins, maybe even more for a final?
Not so long ago I got myself a Dodge Challenger shell but part of the sticker sheet had come loose and was sticking to itself. The rear bumper sticker was trashed along with the rear trim around the tail lights, I was able to carefully rescue the tail light one thankfully.
Seeing your paint design on your Dodge gave me a little inspiration on how to do a paint job that looked good without having the rear chrome bumper sticker. Not shown in the pictures is a Hobbyking set of car led's that I picked up for about $5 and installed them in the car which has earned it the nick name of "Sparkles" at the track.


Cheers
Rob.
Punchy Pete has some front lights installed and they look great at night, am considering some for mine after seeing them
#44
Would HPI Part 7495 qualify as a VTA Body?
I have a couple of new bodys to paint up (68 and 69 Camaro and 77 Trans Am) and am looking for ideas paint wise, everyone in VTA locally seems to have gone red, I had been using the Parma Cuda Body and it handled ok (A LOT better than the J71) but looks like s#it!
Local VTA is 17.5 Blinky, no FDR limits, 1500 gram limit.
I have a couple of new bodys to paint up (68 and 69 Camaro and 77 Trans Am) and am looking for ideas paint wise, everyone in VTA locally seems to have gone red, I had been using the Parma Cuda Body and it handled ok (A LOT better than the J71) but looks like s#it!
Local VTA is 17.5 Blinky, no FDR limits, 1500 gram limit.

Next one going to be sky blue and white maybe
Last edited by mingnon; 04-25-2012 at 08:00 PM. Reason: typo
#45
A 21.5 properly geared using the right motor is not to be snuffed... and wear /cost for this class is also a big factor max fun minimal cost approach hence its appeal... Tyre wear on mine for instance and same reported by many drivers is between 6 and 9 race meets. I actually find the fronts wear more than rear 2-1 perhaps even 3-1. They also perform better as they wear however having said that they are shite on wet tracks... 
With bigger tracks where possible it may be the case that perhaps you have a cut through that can be used to make the track slightly smaller producing more competitive racing.. our track although large is more specific to 1/10 and offers us many combinations that we can run to make it optimal length or minimal depending on what we need...

With bigger tracks where possible it may be the case that perhaps you have a cut through that can be used to make the track slightly smaller producing more competitive racing.. our track although large is more specific to 1/10 and offers us many combinations that we can run to make it optimal length or minimal depending on what we need...

any faster and these beasties wouldnt be stopping/turning to well with the tyres and weight.
Aww come on rubes, it was called "drifting" on the wet track


best race had in ages that day



4Likes

