+1
I run Avid Hexes and 3mm rims.

A while back there was a guy making collars and retainers for BB conversions. Does anyone know who that was?

I got this chasis in and I wasn't thinking straight I have the rs and ft version on the package it doesn't says rs or ft just says sc10 will either my rs or ft fit or am I going to have me a 3rd sc10..lol please fill me in or pm me...thank u very much

Thanks for the compliment! Remember that when you install the rear aluminum hex adapters on a B4 or SC10, remove the blue washer and all outer axle shims. Only run the axle cross pin, and then slide the adapter over the pin and against the bearing. If your cross-pins are bent or mangled from pliers, install new pins before installing and brand hex adapters.

Jake444 -All SC10 versions use the same chassis, so you're covered!

I sent you a PM

Thanks man...wasn't sure scared me for a sec...appreciate it

Are you just talking about the Avid adapters specifically? I installed JConcept rear aluminum hex adapters, and I still have the 2 shims on between the cross pin and the bearing. I am almost certain the instructions that came with the adapters said to take off the blue cone shaped washer and leave the shims on.

Just got my SC10RS out on a carpet track yesterday and man, I got this thing handling pretty good after some shock tuning and tire changing. I broke the stock servo (POS) and bought a Savox 38 dollar metal gear servo and it's 100x better than what was in there. The T-bone front chassis brace held up nicely as well. The carpet setup that worked best for me was J concepts Barcodes up front on stock KMC wheels and stock SC10RS front tires out back.

I noticed on the table top jump, if I went into it full throttle, the truck would nose down but if I kept a steady finger on the throttle, it would coast over and land perfectly every time. Is there anything that can be done to fix that or do I just need more practice? I hear some people put a lot of weight in front of the motor but behind the battery, 3oz or so, so maybe that would help?

Also, I noticed my gears were clicking when throttling through corners so I emailed Associated and have a thicker shim set on the way. STRC aluminum steering bellcrank, full Avid bearings, Avid rear hexes and a T-bone rear skid are on the way too.

The truck I bought came with FT carbon A-arms, should I be worried about these breaking? I know they are more brittle than the stock arms and I'd hate to shatter a nice one if I can get away with using the stock A-arms.

Loving the SCT side of RC so far! I come from a crawling background (I own a fully setup Axial XR10)

What are you calling a LCG Chassis? LCG stands for Low Center of Gravity. You really can't get much lower than the AE chassis. You must be coming from a truck like the Slash that has conversion chassis' that are LCG. On the SC10 it is just the chassis.

Well being that kdub is Kurt Wenger, the lead engineer for Avid, I would think he was speaking specifically about the Avid hexes. Whatever hexes you have, follow the directions and you will be good. It really is just that easy.

Oh, I didn't see that in the signature line earlier. I'm really diggin' those Avid hex adapters. I'm thinking about picking up a set of them to replace my JConcept ones that don't even stay on the axle anymore like they're supposed to

Quick question! I am racing a FT SC10 4x4 and just picked up a sc10 2wd to run as well. What motors are y'all runnin in the 2wd??

I'm running a Thunder Power 10.5T in my 2wd F.T. I really like the motor itself... Thunder Power makes some GREAT stuff! It is the most quite and efficient sensored motor I have ever used. I must say though, I wish that I would have went with the 8.5T or 9.5T version instead. The 10.5T is superb on most of the track, but wish it was a tad faster on the straightaway. I could obviously add some boost with my MMP, but would rather it just be a bit faster on it's own.
So, I would say this motor is an excellent option: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...less-Motor-85T

You can turn your end bell up and regear accordingly.

Nooooooooo!

Ok good carbon fibre has a higher breaking point then good plastic and good carbon fibre does not bend it will reach its tolerance threshold and snap.

the reason why people think Carbon Fibre is weaker is because:

A) Its dodgey CF and snaps at a low tolerance.
B) They are not used to CF and expect it to bend like plastic.


Theres a reason why pushbike companies and car companies invest millions on developing custom CF blends.

Its light and its strong.