ive got the sc10 4x4 and i raced it once last year at a 1/10th scale track in pa and was wondering before my season starts this year if anyone has any tips on setups for me to start with diff fluids shocks ride height ect

Hello all.
New to the SC10 4x4 and not a very experienced driver
Looking at setups and listening to local track people are night and day.
1st - Big outdoor track - big jumps - loose soil
I had 25 back and 30 front shock oil - middle mount up top and outside down below - like 24 and 27 ride height (back - front) - no sway bars - blue springs all round
Rear end very loose - coming off the straight I have to slow way down and even then my front may slide and then back end comes all the way round - off big air I may bounce some if not landing perfectly
Track people tell me to move up the shock oil to 40 - 50 range and move up mounts to outside - move upper mounts and went to 35 rear and 40 front oil - could hardly drive it
note my tires were probably way off - bow ties front and back - all i had
Where should I go? I'm sure I need better tires - soft inserts? do i want to go so high in oils?

Hmm, springs should be fine then. What comes stock blue's? wonder if they gave you front blues instead of rears.

I had the mule kick issue once, I think I was running yellow rears and 20wt oil. I've changed stuff so much since then i'm not sure what fixed it.

Does anyone have a setup that makes the truck easy to powerslide with? Seems to be a fast way around one of my local tracks.

I would try goose bumps or bandlands if it's really deep and/or tacky.

Hmm.. that I can not say for certain. Makes sense though.. I will keep an eye on that next time.

Are you holding a decent amount of throttle while in the air and not just up the face of the jump? Coming from nitro I was struggling with the same problem, my mbx-5 does not need nearly as much throttle held while airborne as my Associated does.

I also programmed in some push on my rx8 esc to help it roll through the tight corners and also in the air like my nitro does. To me even with no drag brake it feels like I am giving it a slight amount of brake in a turn when I try to roll through it. Push fixed that.
Don't know if you have a rx8, but if you do that may help and if not maybe your esc has something like it... not sure.

If that does not help, I agree with bumping up the rear shock oil because you ass end could be slapping the face on takeoff and kicking you.

Oh yeah, I forgot about your piston question. Yes, the rcshox pistons are great.

high bite track run stiff swaybars, like yellow front and rear, i found if you run lower ride height the truck likes it. i ran losi then switched to ae i was way faster, if u drive the truck like 2 wheel buggy it will reward you. i ran blue springs and 25wt oil all around. 24 mm ride height all around. practice being smooth with trigger roll on throttle and u will beat losi trucks.

proline calibers

Might try playing with the push feature of my RX8. I hold the throttle in air and all of that goodness but maybe I am not realizing something. Once I get it figured out, then I will invest and play with the dual stage pistons.

Sounds like the track I race on. Loamy when wet with great traction from any tire and when it dries you have to really work to get any 2wd to hook and some 4wds. My SC10 4x4 loves the Proline Caliber 2.0, wet or dry.

Aluminum Brace is the way to go.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RossNZ
For the guys running the stick pack down the middle of the chassis, how's the chassis flex after taking out the rear chassis section? Does the CF rod mod cover this without excess flex? Thanks.

I am running my battery pack centered and broke two CF braces....all my own fault of course (grin). Today I went with an Aluminum Knitting Needle (thanks Slotmachine for the idea) and 8-32 threaded rod. The Needle was already Blue and it was the 8.5mm size. Weds will tell me the results. Also, I decided to use a fastener from the inside above the motor to hold the brace. I put a Nylock topside, then a Steel Hat Bushing, a washer or tow and another Nylock.

Sal
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As for Breaking or BENDING.....Never gonna happen. People should try something before knocking it. The FT Brace may be good...I havent tried it yet. Mr Wild Cherry.....Dont knock until you try. Thanks for your opinion....but TRY it first before you cast it off as bending or breaking

Sal

Mr Cherry...dont knock it until you have tried it! My brace has yet to even Scratch! I made it before the FT brace came out and it has worked wonders. Seeing as you are such an AE Fan I have to wonder how you can use that brace made from Traxxas Parts? Isnt it going to break or bend? (grin). Not as good as the AE FT brace...........PRACTICE what you preach. Help others instead of knocking when they asked a simple question.

With unearned respect.....

Sal

Is your drag brake set at 0?

I think WC has had issue with his home made brace because it's a 2 piece aluminum tube from revo compression rods. I would imagine where the two rods butt together would lead to be a weak spot, where using a hacked off knitting needle would disperse the load along it's entire length.

Could be wrong though.