no, its not a good idea to run without those screws, just make sure they are ALL the way in.

811be up for sale

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...050-motor.html

Hi guys,
Great news, she is up n running. Re did all e shims in e axles and diff's... Turned out great. Thx for the input guys.
Saw the stock droop settings on e setup sheet, how do u guys go about with the droop measurement from e sheet. I hv no clue what to do?
Also, is there a proper or correct way to lock dwn the sway bars?
E.g like wen the suspension is settled fully? Or when it's at full droop and etc.
Thx again for the help rendered guys.
Cheers

I was quite surprised by this as well. I thought for sure those 4 screws would strip out of the box. Instead I broke the rear plastic chassis brace after some big wrecks. The car became very unstable off jumps until I got a new one and I put in the aluminum one. No problems with it breaking now One of only 2 items that has broken on either of my serpents

No but I"m curious about that as well and using the 811E battery trays in the truggy. Eventually I want to buy the Team Edition truggy when it comes out and convert my current truggy to electric for my step son. I think Tekno is the only company making a conversion kit. There is a thread here in rc tech about this.

Hi guys.
Saw the stock droop settings on e setup sheet, how do u guys go about with the droop measurement from e sheet. I hv no clue what to do?
Also, is there a proper or correct way to lock dwn the sway bars?
E.g like wen the suspension is settled fully? Or when it's at full droop and etc.
Thx again for the help rendered guys.

Anyone have an easy way to get the aluminum shock spring cup holders off? The plastic ones slip on and off quite a bit easier but I bought alum for both my Serpents now they are frustrating me.

What do you need aluminum spring cups for? The stock plastic ones work great, stay in place, and are lighter than aluminum ones.

he needed a little bling on his baby

I'm trying hard not to order all the aluminum bling parts for this myself. This buggy is so sweet, I don't even know when/if I'll get it dirty.

Just finished it while trying to calibrate the esc and radio the esc took a dump, not 5 seconds in, Castle MMM. So it is being sent in which means another few weeks of admiring this buggies design, fit and finish before it might get dirty, lol.

On the setup sheets under the shock catagory there is a rebound number like 25% or 50%, what is this number refering to?

The amount of travel the shaft moves back out on its own after full compression without the spring installed.

I like bling too

I hit a little club race yesterday and the 1/8 e cars had the biggest class. I like driving the e car as much as the nitro. I have never had an e car that was that way. Started 3rd and finished 2nd. Here's a pic that I pulled off our local site.
My angry snake>>>

Any idea how to get this done guys?
Kinda confused and dont know if it's important.
Thx

Go Frank! Glad to meet you on Sunday and race with ya in Nitro buggy at least. Thanks for the help on the e-buggy setup too, I will switch the rear to hard/white springs.

At least you got to see the Thunder Tiger S3, the original car and original RB Worlds S7 motor, in action. I finished 5th, right behind you.

I will probably have it out there at Norcal Hobbies 1 more time, before I bring out my spankin new S3 with the long chassis conversion. Will be racing it in the Norcal Champs series this summer... in addition to my new Serpent.... but I really need to find someone to fuel me... no more running down the drivers stand


I want to try some of that Cold Fusion fuel too, if you bring some, I'll buy a gallon!