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Old 04-10-2012 | 07:41 AM
  #1996  
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Hi guys,
Sorry for the noob question,
But what settings do u use on your esc's for 1/8th buggys?
E.g the punch, drag force n brake force and etc?
Thx
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Old 04-10-2012 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by wickkerr82
Hi guys,
Sorry for the noob question,
But what settings do u use on your esc's for 1/8th buggys?
E.g the punch, drag force n brake force and etc?
Thx
Punch would depend on how slick the surface is. I would start low and work your way up. Consider this your electronic "Clutch"

No drag brake.

Around 75% brake.
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Old 04-10-2012 | 08:25 AM
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i hope that porkchop get well soon
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Old 04-10-2012 | 08:42 AM
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Answered my own question! lol

@Vortexted those body's are sick![/QUOTE]
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Old 04-10-2012 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by porkchop
the cars smooth turns on dime and it just works ever time i pass the remote it only hours be4 there ordering one on there smart phone at the track.

the boot is good to have just push it in it be fine. the case it self holds the ring.
I know I'm bringing this quote back from the grave. But it's not true. The case doesn't hold the ring for the front / rear center CVD. It's only the boot. If you don't use the ring at all the bearing covers the pin hole about 25%. I think it might be enough to not use the ring or boot. But i'm a little scared not too.

Since the boots seem to be a absolute must to hold the ring. Does everyone have them last long enough? Anyone try the cheaper Mugen boots? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Joint-Boots-2

Another surprise while building it was I couldn't believe the rear chassis brace is connected to a plastic battery box
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Old 04-10-2012 | 06:15 PM
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yeah I thought it connecting to the battery box was odd myself but I havent had any issues with it
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Old 04-10-2012 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RCmayor
Punch would depend on how slick the surface is. I would start low and work your way up. Consider this your electronic "Clutch"

No drag brake.

Around 75% brake.
Thx buddy.
Great help.
Cheers
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Old 04-10-2012 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxthepersonz
I don't know if I missed the part or something but can you buy just the center portion of the motor mount that the motor actually mounts to? My motor slipped and "Slightly damaged it" just scratched I guess... Still sucks though. I think it'd be convenient to have them to change motors for different tracks easily.

@Vortexted those body's are sick!
Yes you can!!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...600447&x=0&y=0
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Old 04-10-2012 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tony montana
yeah I thought it connecting to the battery box was odd myself but I havent had any issues with it
Ya, not much else to connect to except for the drive shaft. lol. That wont work.
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Old 04-11-2012 | 10:30 AM
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I ca'd the drive shaft boots on .. hope they hold up well enuff.. I installed the ring as well, but not ca'd.

I've been running cva boots on my ttr S3, and they last pretty good. The rubber isnt as thick as the Serpent ones though. And I stuff em full of grease and I haven't had to replace a cvd on my ttr S3 except for one that got bent in a bad crash.
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Old 04-11-2012 | 06:07 PM
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Has anyone taken the electronic mounting pieces and put them in a truggy roller? If so, how did everything line up? I'm thinking about making my truggy into an e-version of the buggy. If you already did it, take some photos and post them please. I don't know why serpent hasn't made an e-truggy anyway.
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Old 04-12-2012 | 12:42 AM
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Hi guys,
took my 811be out for a run tdy.
Very bad experience.
Problem i had was that when i am at full throttle, my car seems to be not moving much n very slow, Like at snails pace but the motor is spinning and its loud. Plus the braking takes like ages and is not like a sudden brake inout as been placed, but its like jus at a cruzing stop. Any idea what is the problem here?
Diff?s built wrongly, Gear meshing?
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Old 04-12-2012 | 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by wickkerr82
Hi guys,
took my 811be out for a run tdy.
Very bad experience.
Problem i had was that when i am at full throttle, my car seems to be not moving much n very slow, Like at snails pace but the motor is spinning and its loud. Plus the braking takes like ages and is not like a sudden brake inout as been placed, but its like jus at a cruzing stop. Any idea what is the problem here?
Diff?s built wrongly, Gear meshing?

What esc and motor combo are you using? Have you set your end points? Are the motor bearings good? More than likely it's just settings in the esc.
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Old 04-12-2012 | 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by joel804
What esc and motor combo are you using? Have you set your end points? Are the motor bearings good? More than likely it's just settings in the esc.
Nope buddy, don't think it's the esc. Did find out the problem. It's a loose screw in e diff. Threadlock was not strong enough. Anyway am facing a dilemma now, after putting all e diff back with the housing, the diff seems to lock or seem to be very hard when I tighten the bottom 2 screws and the top 2 screws that house the diff. But then I tighten e screws to wear both covers meet n form properly. So is the diff some to be freewheeling or is it suppose to be tight?
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Old 04-12-2012 | 03:45 AM
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How many shims did you use
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