SC10 4x4 Thread
Now if I remove the shims under the ball studs and just raise the camber link on the rear hubs like in the pic does it give the same result as adding the shims under the studs on the tower side
I would rather raise the link on the hubs verses having to use longer ball studs. I have a fear they might snap off.
Nick George didn't have any trouble jumping the triple, but he also has a clutch basket. Pizza guy Dave was jumping it with his 2wd SC, and Kevin was jumping it with his 22 buggy.
If you buy the FT upgrade kit, you get a multi part slipper that will fix your power down problem.
Were you pitted on the outside wall against "The Dungeon" next to the rock crawler track?
On another note, well my truck handled terrible on Saturday, It jumped amazing!
The Blue front springs on the rear helped a lot I could clear everything the 1/8s did with only the driver as the inconstant part. If I had more time to practice n that track I could do it every time.
Video of the Qualifier: (I am not driving in this, you can actually hear the rd talking about the Losis dominating)
The Blue front springs on the rear helped a lot I could clear everything the 1/8s did with only the driver as the inconstant part. If I had more time to practice n that track I could do it every time.
Video of the Qualifier: (I am not driving in this, you can actually hear the rd talking about the Losis dominating)
| + YouTube Video | |
Last edited by Evil Genius jr.; 04-09-2012 at 02:21 PM.
I know it came up in here to modify the diff cases to allow the use of 5x10x3 bearings on the outdrives. I was wondering, how that has been holding up? Are there other fixes out there for this now?
I'm replacing my front and rear diff cases due to the diffs starting to leak and the outdrives wobbling after about 8 months of racing.
I'm replacing my front and rear diff cases due to the diffs starting to leak and the outdrives wobbling after about 8 months of racing.



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